A Big Day Unfolds
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| Two stages in one: Refuge de Manganu to Bergeries de L'Onda |
We hadn't intended to combine two stages, but our eyes had been opened to the idea after seeing a number of walkers arrive on Day Three at Haut Asco about the same time as us, have an early lunch and then continue on - probably to Refuge de Tighjettu. Here's how the day unfolded ...
Stage 7: Manganu to Petra Piana
Details:
- Distance: 10 km
- Total ascent: 980 m
- Total descent: 740 m
- Time: 7 hours
The day started with a gradual climb up a narrowing valley, initially on a pretty good path ...
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| I still haven't shed the (extra) layer of fat accumulated in FNQ ... |
following a lovely stream initially before climbing up a steep, boulder-strewn slope before passing a waterfall. Some upward traversing over bare rock led to a flat, grassy area where we normally would have expected to see sheep or cattle grazing. I wondered whether their absence meant that they had been rounded up and driven down into the lowlands.
The mist swirling about meant that there wasn't a lot to look at while we ascended towards the high ridges so we plodded steadily upwards without trying to take photographs, and the going became quite rough with some large boulders needing to be negotiated at one point. Eventually we reached another major milestone on the GR20 in the form of the Breche du Capitellu, which at 2225 metres is the highest point on the main trail ...
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| Breche du Capitellu |
... where a liaison track leads down past the Lac du Capitellu and on to Corte, the old capital of Corsica.
A short descent towards a high shelf ...
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| Taking care amongst bouldery scree |
... followed by a bit of sidling along the shelf and then a scramble up through some rock led us eventually out on to a high ridge where the track wound around a series of towers ...
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| Walking in the clouds |
Driven by strong winds, the clouds swirled about us occasionally opening to allow the sun through ...
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| A moment of sunshine |
It was glorious walking, although with the amount of rock underfoot we had to keep an eye on the trail most of the time. Occasionally, tucked away behind a large boulder or in some other sheltered spot we'd come across little patches of colour ...
We often seemed to be just on the edge of the weather ...
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| This image makes me think of Bruce Cockburn's song "High Winds, White Sky" |
The next photo gives a peek along the ridge back the way we've come ...
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| Rock Garden in the Sky |
In the next photo we are nearing a col on the ridge, where we will drop down and then traverse on to the flank of Punta Muzzella, visible on the left in the background ...
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| Wonderful ridge walking |
Walkers lucky enough to experience this section in fine weather can enjoy great views down to Lac de Capitellu and Lac du Melo, where there is a hut. We did get a good look at Lac du Melo as we were traversing high above it a little later, when the clouds cleared away for a while.
In the next photo we have reached the col and are enjoying the panoramic view back the way we've come. There are actually three hikers on the ridge ...
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| A wonderful look back at where we've been this morning |
... which you can see more easily if you expand the next photo which gives a closer look ...
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| Behind us, walkers descend the ridge |
The bouldery traverse across the flank of Punta Muzzella afforded us some great views ...
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| Di picks her way along the bouldery route |
... and occasionally we'd pause and enjoy views back along the way we'd come ...
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| A moody day in the mountains |
Down off the ridge and hugging the flanks of Punta Muzzella gave us a bit of shelter from the wind and, with the strenuous traversing through large boulders warming me up I paused to take off my fleece sweater ...
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| Yes! We ARE having fun ... |
You might notice a bit of dead vegetation. The guidebook mentions "pushing through dense alder scrub" at this point. We were very pleased to see that much of the scrub had been cut back away from the path, probably by guides leading tour groups through. Just as we were giving up on getting a really good look down to either of the lakes, the sun came bursting out and afforded us this wonderful view ...
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| Wild Beauty on the GR20 |
Through the Bocca Renosa we went, where we were again exposed to the wind, so we put our warm tops back on. Then it was across a high exposed shelf towards the Bocca Muzzella but, before we got there, we came across a very interesting scene. A tour group was stopped and one of the guides was absolutely raising hell with one of the clients. From what we could make out, they'd stopped to put on windproof jackets but the client in question had decided he didn't need to follow the guide's instructions. Well! Wasn't he being told his fortune in no uncertain terms! Although we didn't understand much of what was being said because it was pretty rapid-fire and at full volume it was clear that the guide didn't like having his authority questioned. And fair enough; exposure could easily have been an outcome, especially for a member of one of these groups which tend to move pretty slowly exposing them to the wind for longer periods.
I guess what was so bemusing for us about this whole scene though was the forcefulness with which the message was being delivered. Perhaps unfairly - as my conclusion was, admittedly based on fairly limited experience, I mused that the guide must have been Corsican. There was no diplomacy whatsoever. It was a "my way or the highway" sort of situation. No knives were in evidence but ... we were happy to continue on our merry way and leave them to their discussions.
After a couple of hours hiking above 2000 metres we arrived at the Bocca Muzzella ...
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| Bocca Muzzella |
... before starting the steep, 360 metre descent towards Refuge de Petra Piana. Once again we marvelled at how high up these slopes the deciduous forest stretched ...
Before long we were nearing Refuge de Petra Piana ...
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| Above Refuge Petra de Piana |
... and were greatly surprised to arrive at just after 11:00 a.m., a mere four and a half hours after leaving Refuge de Manganu. No doubt having had a good rest at Manganu the previous day had helped us recover from the first five days of walking.
We thought the experience at Refuge de Petra Piana would be similar. Relax a bit, have a feed and relax some more. However, down on the shelf where Petra Piana sits the wind was blowing quite strongly and it was too cool to sit around comfortably. To make matters worse, there were signs up saying "Pas Petit Dejeuner" and "Pas Dejeuner". It seemed that the tour groups had cleaned the guardian out of all his bread and much of his supplies for lunch. We were able to buy a bit of snack food and had a bit of a feed but then we were in a bit of a quandary about what to do next.
We didn't really feel like putting up the tent and huddling inside for the rest of the day until dinner was ready. And what of breakfast the next day. After a bit of deliberation we decided we'd push on to the Bergerie de L'Onda. The high-level variation would have been quicker with less elevation gain and loss but Di agreed to go on only if we took the low route as it was still very gusty and cool at the refuge and it would have been quite fierce up on the ridge. After replenishing our water we set off for the next stage:
Stage 8: Petra Piana to Bergerie de L'Onda
Distance: 11 km
Total ascent: 500 m
Total descent: 910 m
Time: 5 hours
We set off with quite slowly as the descent from Petra Piana is very steep to begin with. Not far after leaving we came across the first hikers arriving from below ...
As we descended we followed a lovely stream, with many small waterfalls like this one out in the open in the upper reaches of the valley ...
Before too long - or too much complaining from our tired knees - the angle of the descent relented. And, as it did, we entered a most beautiful forest where the stream continued to cascade intermittently but now into even more gorgeous pools ...
We walked for what seemed like a long time through the forest ...
... where delightful orchids started to appear ...
After about 800 metres of descent we arrived at the Bergeries de Tolla where a lovely cottage presented itself and suggested we stop the night ...
... but we resisted the temptation and wandered on to the spot where they had food and drink on offer for passing hikers and ordered a very welcome repast ...
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| Tisane for Di, Iced Tea for me, bread and cheese for both of us |
Much refreshed, we hoisted our packs and continued on our way. In ten minutes the descent was complete, we crossed the footbridge over the Ruisseau de Manganellu and started the 500 metre ascent to Bergerie de L'Onda.
Thankfully it was a steady rather than steep climb, and the forest continued to be a delight. Lower down on the slopes it was a mixture of fantastic huge beech trees like this one ...
... scattered amongst more juvenile examples, along with a good smattering of pines.
At first the route follows an old road, perhaps used for logging in the past. A little way up the road was a barbecue area that looked like it got plenty of use ...
As we ascended higher into the forest the pines began to dominate and in places there was a thick covering of pine cones alongside the track, often with an orchid peeking through ...
Finally, but sooner than we'd dared hope, we arrived at the Bergerie de L'Onda and the campground ...
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| First view of Bergerie de L'Onda |
Regretfully, this is the only photo I have of the Bergerie. The wind was blowing quite fiercely when we arrived (the sleeping bag you can see in the photo was rescued before it blew away) and we were intent on getting out tent up, having a shower and getting something to eat. However the first priority, as always was to ensure that we had a place at the dinner table. That secured, we put the tent up, observing that two of the rented tents had been ripped to shreds by the wind. We discovered that a hot shower was available for a two Euro fee, which we were happy to pay after such a long day. We were tired but pretty pleased to have covered a total of 21 kilometres, along with 1480 metres of ascent and 1650 metres of descent in 10 hours - including stops. Dinner was fantastic, and we had no trouble sleeping that night despite the wind snapping relentlessly at the tent.
