tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25567832466523501102024-03-20T07:16:24.383+11:00Hiking Corsica's GR20Europe's Toughest Grand RandonnéeDoughttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12724255802945843203noreply@blogger.comBlogger14125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2556783246652350110.post-40051608262793205212013-11-07T23:03:00.000+11:002014-08-07T06:12:13.056+10:00Maintaining the High<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<i>EpiBlog: What to do Post-GR20???</i></h2>
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Part A: Carrying on in Corsica</h3>
The big reason for going to Corsica was to do the GR20 but, thinking that it was a long way to get to from Tasmania and not knowing if and when we were likely to go back, in our planning we had decided to give ourselves a week after the hike to have a look around the island. Doing the hike in twelve days rather than fifteen meant that we actually had ten days left before flying out of Ajaccio. There's always a bit of a let-down after a great adventure and we wanted to try to maintain the high as long as we could.</div>
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However, before I get on to what we got up to for the rest of our time in Corsica and the few days back in France before flying home, I thought I'd share with you a pretty good video on the GR20 that I came across a couple of days ago. (It was such a terrific hike that I haven't really been able to help myself reliving it to some extent, and doing the blog has been really good for that, as has trying to find other points of view on the experience.) This video by Nicolas Rousseau has some great footage and some images that you will be familiar from some of the photos in earlier posts on my blog (if you've been following the journey). The sequences from the Cirque de la Solitude show the exposure and scale. I'm embedding the video here …</div>
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… as well as providing <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uC-Mirofd3w&feature=em-share_video_user" target="_blank">a link</a> in case you'd like to watch it full screen.</div>
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Back to <b>post-GR20</b>. We managed to have a good look around the southwestern half of the island after leaving Conca. Here's a map showing pretty much the ground we covered. (The GR20 is roughly marked in red.)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlwUkO0oV1baQ5X_tggP8h3UpABJvu95WpmCQn4kcWe_qawMlDPJrEvV634llmm1lYsNDECP-LVXCbkFyO77oPwRb5y2iH9k4OnEnDcxuEHo-ROkHlmyWVpeaY7mGCdKAJe_BO4EKZjWRi/s1600/Corsican+explorations.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlwUkO0oV1baQ5X_tggP8h3UpABJvu95WpmCQn4kcWe_qawMlDPJrEvV634llmm1lYsNDECP-LVXCbkFyO77oPwRb5y2iH9k4OnEnDcxuEHo-ROkHlmyWVpeaY7mGCdKAJe_BO4EKZjWRi/s400/Corsican+explorations.jpg" height="383" width="400" /></a></div>
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After spending a night at La Tonnelle, the wonderful gîte in Conca, we got the navette into Porto Vecchio. We had booked a couple of nights at a place close to the city centre called <a href="http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g196484-d2365267-Reviews-Hotel_da_Mama-Porto_Vecchio_Corse_du_Sud_Corsica.html" target="_blank">Hôtel da Mama</a>, which we eventually found our way to after our helpful driver had actually taken us out of town to <i><b>Motel</b></i> da Mamma. A strange occurrence that, and we wondered if we were travelling in a parallel universe, but we eventually got where we wanted to be. (Send me a message if you'd like the full story.) It seemed like a good idea to have a couple of days to relax, look around a bit, <i style="font-weight: bold;">do our laundry </i>and work out how to get the most out of the rest of our stay in Corse.</div>
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Having decided to poke around <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bonifacio,_Corse-du-Sud" target="_blank">Bonifacio</a> on our second day after the hike, we spent the first day just relaxing, exploring Porto Vecchio, eating, <b><i>doing our laundry</i></b> and sorting out a car for the following eight days. Nothing else to say about that day really. No photos for example; I guess PV just wasn't that photogenic.</div>
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Taking the bus down to Bonifacio for a few hours was an enjoyable bit of a touristy lark. It's a very beautiful - and historic - spot. As you'd expect they have a real link to the sea, as this old rowboat at the bottom of the steps leading up to the old citadel demonstrates ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg31spGctzAuLOEeARjBslayR9Kab2fwNbBeSzLnOjoIi29ZdhUOc-nGIygKqSD5ceISSremT1J1kucWSew-izrCsPfjLVheUYl44aa-Kp_0wQzHBpxbaHxXkp7PI1rXL2aZeffW7eeuqeZ/s1600/B+P1030247.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg31spGctzAuLOEeARjBslayR9Kab2fwNbBeSzLnOjoIi29ZdhUOc-nGIygKqSD5ceISSremT1J1kucWSew-izrCsPfjLVheUYl44aa-Kp_0wQzHBpxbaHxXkp7PI1rXL2aZeffW7eeuqeZ/s640/B+P1030247.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">It's <u>this</u> far from Corsica to Tasmania ...</span></b></i></td></tr>
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We walked up the steps toward the <a href="http://www.tripadvisor.com.au/Attraction_Review-g612416-d1755239-Reviews-Bonifacio_Citadel-Bonifacio_Corse_du_Sud_Corsica.html" target="_blank">citadel</a>, where you get a great view down into the sheltered harbour of Bonifacio …<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkr4mQTNZMqOxkiK5ENjZj8dBwGOlR1XjWsBQU0MqSLfYG0aKn1rzgWAl0DFhEa7tbsuF0V1PSwnKBDCd7FNpiHIC9Q64_RcvQE0bznvXVzZJ7Gii6jK0RLsaviXvoMVUT9wPS-0CrbsJc/s1600/E+P1030254.JPg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkr4mQTNZMqOxkiK5ENjZj8dBwGOlR1XjWsBQU0MqSLfYG0aKn1rzgWAl0DFhEa7tbsuF0V1PSwnKBDCd7FNpiHIC9Q64_RcvQE0bznvXVzZJ7Gii6jK0RLsaviXvoMVUT9wPS-0CrbsJc/s640/E+P1030254.JPg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Bonifacio harbour</span></b></i></td></tr>
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… and then took a left to hike a little way along the cliff tops. There are great views looking up towards the citadel from the steps …<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0TN337U_MxXZ2UG2MuFNqQGZiBjCuJV5fqqRqzhrX7uDbWYop-Y1ZVFmW9dDDhaRZVzPZKmhOh_djhB509UDJv1WLQzjUydYuaV1PPPP6TsMR124Ia9vBFhHqKvYdqR7EjnboR1tsAyJN/s1600/C+P1030249.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0TN337U_MxXZ2UG2MuFNqQGZiBjCuJV5fqqRqzhrX7uDbWYop-Y1ZVFmW9dDDhaRZVzPZKmhOh_djhB509UDJv1WLQzjUydYuaV1PPPP6TsMR124Ia9vBFhHqKvYdqR7EjnboR1tsAyJN/s640/C+P1030249.jpg" height="640" width="478" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Cliffline </span></b></i><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>and citadel walls from steps</i></b></span></td></tr>
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… and across from the pathway that runs along the cliff top …<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWbgMaB_EWo_rmHim6gd8ZDiqBrrGDdsAgYdkduLKbbRdr8yRWKvjW0_BiVaqJyDRks6j-XzfDNnh0Vqf-HJaX98fS1jik0Oldw5kjfhuSi_FYVjukDfhIXzTVGOhI2atWua6huYkUf3C4/s1600/D+P1030251.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWbgMaB_EWo_rmHim6gd8ZDiqBrrGDdsAgYdkduLKbbRdr8yRWKvjW0_BiVaqJyDRks6j-XzfDNnh0Vqf-HJaX98fS1jik0Oldw5kjfhuSi_FYVjukDfhIXzTVGOhI2atWua6huYkUf3C4/s640/D+P1030251.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Bonifacio Citadel from cliff top walk</span></b></i></td></tr>
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You might have noticed that the rock in this photo is very different from anything else that has featured in the blog to date. While the rest of Corsica is effectively one great granite mountain rising up out of the Mediterranean Sea, this bit of coastline is like a fringe of limestone lace attached to the southern skirt of the island. On a windswept day like this, we thought the whitecaps on the blue of the sea and the stark white cliffs were just gorgeous.<br />
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Sorry, but I don't have any photos from the citadel itself. We went into the church but Di found it rather macabre so we didn't stay long. Otherwise it just didn't capture the imagination, perhaps because it is crammed with shops selling expensive and tourists packed the streets. After walking in the mountains for a couple of weeks perhaps it was a shock to the system to be in a tourist town environment.<br />
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Incidentally, while we were in Bonifacio we came across a marvellous little guidebook to the 70 "<i style="font-weight: bold;">finest coastal and mountain walks</i>" in Corsica. This is what the front cover looks like ...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBaX1lTTlBaifOr4xIPvFybSFRqyq7XTWwWuu8puTxoVKNVyMIZem9edcXHy-l7ovvZSDinwad1Juy66qXtY_PsIUW_osjnXipvFaAUrB9trw1ySAYtNRe4KJT9iovPzM2BsY3Y3JH9b-m/s1600/D+Corsica+Walking+Guide.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBaX1lTTlBaifOr4xIPvFybSFRqyq7XTWwWuu8puTxoVKNVyMIZem9edcXHy-l7ovvZSDinwad1Juy66qXtY_PsIUW_osjnXipvFaAUrB9trw1ySAYtNRe4KJT9iovPzM2BsY3Y3JH9b-m/s400/D+Corsica+Walking+Guide.jpg" height="400" width="286" /></a></div>
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… and this is the back …<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZpnNPNnTJSnW02bG3NPFZkn3ptfuBpfpJnHLKigsj-25_Ht0eojjkB1G6fAKxtXNU7uc8OBAxXH7Ccs7rGDgPEZyQNH4Fi_JNl0NISj5nAvZ-acmHaGTUR6_uDV8MYOe9IMGIW_l46WTc/s1600/D+Corsica+Walking+Guide002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZpnNPNnTJSnW02bG3NPFZkn3ptfuBpfpJnHLKigsj-25_Ht0eojjkB1G6fAKxtXNU7uc8OBAxXH7Ccs7rGDgPEZyQNH4Fi_JNl0NISj5nAvZ-acmHaGTUR6_uDV8MYOe9IMGIW_l46WTc/s400/D+Corsica+Walking+Guide002.jpg" height="400" width="286" /></a></div>
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The cliff line walk from Bonifacio is number 36 in this guide, goes along the coast past an ancient battery <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JhPk4zBhjeA" target="_blank">to the lighthouse at Capu Pertusato</a> and back again, and is meant to take about three hours and ten minutes. We didn't have that long so we just strolled out a little way for the view, but it was very tempting to keep going!</div>
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I thought I'd provide a link to the guidebook above and found that there is actually <a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsica-finest-coastal-mountain-Walking/dp/3763348190" target="_blank">a new edition</a> which now has 75 walks that are GPS referenced. Many of these walks actually involve walking short sections of the GR20. Followers of the blog might remember that on <a href="http://tasmaniacsonthegr20.blogspot.com.au/2013_10_23_archive.html" target="_blank">day nine we doubled up</a> and, partly because of dodgy weather and partly because of the distances involved, we stuck to the standard route rather than taking the high level variation via the fabulous pozzis that Di had wanted to visit. Walk number 28 in the guidebook goes up to the pozzis from Station du Val d'Ese and is supposed to be about a four and a half hour round trip. Here is a snapshot of pages 88-89 from the guidebook with part of the route description and some photos showing what we missed …<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1ICDjgJwCEoYEHcA1Js1pQBd8NXAw9-Bj43ws6x44c8v6gtZsgahnTEljI9uZOWrSaNjCfq5TOG4T0VzEOiPCXLGcyfxm4__jX1JgCODpku357ROfjDQyUN3FStiz1C592fymJCb7oDZY/s1600/E+Pozzis.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1ICDjgJwCEoYEHcA1Js1pQBd8NXAw9-Bj43ws6x44c8v6gtZsgahnTEljI9uZOWrSaNjCfq5TOG4T0VzEOiPCXLGcyfxm4__jX1JgCODpku357ROfjDQyUN3FStiz1C592fymJCb7oDZY/s640/E+Pozzis.jpg" height="456" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>A spread from the Rother Walking Guide book</i></b></span></td></tr>
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As I said on <a href="http://tasmaniacsonthegr20.blogspot.com.au/2013_10_23_archive.html" target="_blank">the post for that day</a>, this is a walk we'll do if we ever go back to Corsica.<br />
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Finding this little (16.4 cm X 11.5 cm) guide book was a <a href="http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/eureka?s=t" target="_blank">eureka moment</a> and basically provided the blueprint for our remaining time on the island. We had pretty much decided that we'd rent a car, but where we'd go was a bit unclear - apart from knowing we had to go back to Hôtel Monte d'Oro to pick up our camping gear. Now we had a treasure trove of day walks to choose from which would no doubt allow us to experience more of Corsica's stunning scenery.<br />
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So, the next day we picked up a car and drove to Col de Vizzavona via the east coast for a way then up through a fantastic, winding gorge to the small town of Ghisoni, where we had lunch and on to Vizzavona for the night. Next day another drive, this time to Porto via a circuitous route on highway N193 almost as far as Ajaccio, then north on the D81 via Sagone, Cargèse and Piana to Porto, where we'd booked a hotel for three nights. The drive was fantastic, with a lot of cyclists on the roads, as well as hikers in and around the fabulous Les Calaches de Piana. (Another dream is to go back to Corsica just for the cycling: we saw lots of cycle tour groups in some wonderful places.) Check out <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2snaA7DFaRg" target="_blank">this Youtube video</a>:<br />
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<b><i>Calaches de Piana</i></b></div>
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The rest of the day was spent poolside at our hotel, in and out of the water: a nice chill out after some tense moments on the very narrow roads nigh above the coast with a very nervy passenger!<br />
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We had picked out a coastal walk for our first dip into the guidebook. Indeed, of the six walks we did all or part of from the book, five of them ended up being coastal walks. And why not? We'd spent a lot of time in the mountains, and the idea of being able to walk along the coast and have a swim - or two, or indeed three! - was very appealing. So, the next morning we drove the twenty-two twisty kilometres northwards to the Col de la Croix in order to do the walk to Girolata. This is part of the <a href="http://corsica.forhikers.com/mare-monti-nord" target="_blank">Tra Mare e Monti</a> trail. On our way we enjoyed this lovely view down over the ocean …<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Another lovely day in Corsica</span></b></i></td></tr>
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Girolata sounded like an idyllic destination. It's an historic fishing village and the only access is by boat or footpath: there are no roads and hence no automobiles. The position is very scenic and it's one of the spots along the coast the Genoese built one of their seventy-seven towers in the 16th Century. Here is a view down towards the village from the inland route:<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Girolata</span></b></i></td></tr>
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Yes, it is a very beautiful spot. The granite along this section of coastline has a very distinct reddish tinge about it and is quite stunning. Unfortunately, as you can see in the photo, it has become very popular with sightseers and many tour boats bulging with passengers call in for a visit. (You can see one on the way in.) Two jetties have been built to accommodate them and there are a number of bars along the beach so this once-tranquil place is really just another tourist trap. We stayed long enough for a quick cold drink and headed back along the coast. Here is another view looking back towards Girolata from a different angle, showing the Genoese tower, the town above the beach and the coastline to the north …<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Red granite, blue sea</span></b></i></td></tr>
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The coast track rejoins the path down from the Col de la Croix at the Plage de Tuara where we had a swim before making our way back up the the col and the car. It was great to arrive at a beach where we found ourselves - at least momentarily - completely alone …<br />
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<b><i>Not much to see, is there? ;-)</i></b></div>
After the short climb back to the car at the Col de la Croix we felt that we'd had a very pleasant outing but also that the shine was taken slightly off the day by the numbers of people boozing at the bars of Girolata.<br />
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The next day took us back to the mountains. I'd read about the Naitone forests in Edward Lear's journal from his visit to Corsica in 1851 and walk number nineteen took us up to the Col de Cuccavera at 1475 metres. The sub-heading for this walk promises a "<i style="font-weight: bold;">Peaceful and panoramic high route above the Aitone valley</i>". It sounded terrific and was, taking us gradually up an old logging road for much of the route and then on to a smaller trail before reaching the col itself. On the drive up toward the start of the walk we passed a large number of cyclists strung out along the road, perhaps on their way to <a href="http://www.hotel-castel-vergio.com/fr/hotel-castel-vergio-herbergement-gr-vingt-albertacce-corse.html" target="_blank">Castellu di Vergio</a> - or perhaps doing a loop back to Porto. Near Evisa, we came across a happy bunch of porkers extracting some mysterious sustenance from the gravel beside the roadway …<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUxAUgR25k_mPd-5mD4vEem19T6JuDFS2vQVuqoihSM02jdx2CqJFWY9ZTweGjQGDBT8_VJUdMQ8WV0Gpu3jVIGtAlSASguLVomEX1vAxDc3Fm8Uemn26pecsg7Qkm-LhwR2OawR9w0IVB/s1600/H+Pigs.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUxAUgR25k_mPd-5mD4vEem19T6JuDFS2vQVuqoihSM02jdx2CqJFWY9ZTweGjQGDBT8_VJUdMQ8WV0Gpu3jVIGtAlSASguLVomEX1vAxDc3Fm8Uemn26pecsg7Qkm-LhwR2OawR9w0IVB/s640/H+Pigs.JPG" height="402" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">What ARE they eating???</span></b></i></td></tr>
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The walk itself was largely in the forest which was very pleasant but meant that we didn't continuously enjoy panoramic views. One major bonus, especially for my <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Birdwatching" target="_blank">twitchy</a> companion who was overjoyed to see, with her naked eye the elusive Sitelle Corse or <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corsican_Nuthatch" target="_blank">Corsican Nuthatch</a>. As one gets higher though things start to open out a bit …<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_RKOK3xH3ZCdO66MH5SLFJ1a49ejro05J-XzLa8ApAW9DKvAGEe0l4IJ-0UWJo0cKeZdKcqZxzlf3cxfleuuMO7BuRgT4WcEVwnshLa94sHxO4-yoJIGbZnQ3i9CC4J0OBH_n3AfCpH0L/s1600/H+Rest+and+View+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_RKOK3xH3ZCdO66MH5SLFJ1a49ejro05J-XzLa8ApAW9DKvAGEe0l4IJ-0UWJo0cKeZdKcqZxzlf3cxfleuuMO7BuRgT4WcEVwnshLa94sHxO4-yoJIGbZnQ3i9CC4J0OBH_n3AfCpH0L/s640/H+Rest+and+View+1.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Rock and forest</span></b></i></td></tr>
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Early on the route is lined with large boulders and huge laricio pines, but higher up most of the bigger trees had been harvested in the past - probably around the time that Lear visited a century and a half ago. There was still the occasional big fellah still hanging around here and there …<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGyuFIt529D-dmrIi7zHRPHOnL3os1l6kLyUvOlg_Vp6th274OfOqRmkNDvZOpPsly1_Jr-RXeBftHXwBk-12SxhhYeh0bPSuy_UKL86VsIgi1pjrT32oafu5Fdt3tp_4n_ZSi5hI6QpTx/s1600/H+The+big+tree.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGyuFIt529D-dmrIi7zHRPHOnL3os1l6kLyUvOlg_Vp6th274OfOqRmkNDvZOpPsly1_Jr-RXeBftHXwBk-12SxhhYeh0bPSuy_UKL86VsIgi1pjrT32oafu5Fdt3tp_4n_ZSi5hI6QpTx/s640/H+The+big+tree.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>A remnant of the once mighty forest</i></b></span></td></tr>
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At the col itself the views north and west toward the coast were quite panoramic …<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim_YvGZanSXlv6psRpkpCXh86iI-FTp8rwUt1k6Matjzmg69BItEeN0GOFU7dO_UL1kgTcmajCV5dCj6cGGy0B7pUJjDA6vNsk-8omIi7J_4ygTVlAmGoOD0AjlBveGxcQfkNcDpicl7ug/s1600/H+The+Col+de+Cuccavera+pano.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim_YvGZanSXlv6psRpkpCXh86iI-FTp8rwUt1k6Matjzmg69BItEeN0GOFU7dO_UL1kgTcmajCV5dCj6cGGy0B7pUJjDA6vNsk-8omIi7J_4ygTVlAmGoOD0AjlBveGxcQfkNcDpicl7ug/s640/H+The+Col+de+Cuccavera+pano.jpg" height="152" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>View north and west from the Col de Cuccavera</i></b></span></td></tr>
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After this very pleasant hike we headed back past Evisa toward Ota. Along the way we passed another motley mob of pigs making the most of whatever it was alongside and, in this case, actually on the roadway itself …<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi_lrrmfCKdJM0Qb3kzJnuTOYLTL5v8N-dsbjv_0uDhND3kn2M3T5pGun4GDrjuRrgb7_HuDrU2j9OwBkBUXocJvyU5qXeXIN04NZzNk-01JzqOjewxROy2GAeOA46pWItz2tcYb6rcQIC/s1600/H+The+pigs+again.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi_lrrmfCKdJM0Qb3kzJnuTOYLTL5v8N-dsbjv_0uDhND3kn2M3T5pGun4GDrjuRrgb7_HuDrU2j9OwBkBUXocJvyU5qXeXIN04NZzNk-01JzqOjewxROy2GAeOA46pWItz2tcYb6rcQIC/s640/H+The+pigs+again.JPG" height="346" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">A colourful bunch, </span></b></i><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>nest-ce pas?</i></b></span></td></tr>
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Further along this fantastic route we paused to record the terrific road-building. Along with the precipitous drop, mountainous skyline and clouds massing on the horizon I thought it made a pretty striking scene …<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQOl-SETKqcwj-PTahH0J1A7Yhg1utA_xhvuAaGkIb0btieEiDrBemY0h-SB2Ie_uL_dYKf40f2Znlr1xuL9gBafIdv_zw3HY_quWW1sEc8ADenEsa4lD3eATw_kPLXfZMcjGJ2NTgknwg/s1600/H+The+road+back.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQOl-SETKqcwj-PTahH0J1A7Yhg1utA_xhvuAaGkIb0btieEiDrBemY0h-SB2Ie_uL_dYKf40f2Znlr1xuL9gBafIdv_zw3HY_quWW1sEc8ADenEsa4lD3eATw_kPLXfZMcjGJ2NTgknwg/s640/H+The+road+back.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">A great route for driving, motorbikes and cyclists alike</span></b></i></td></tr>
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Ota is less than five kilometres from Porto but is perched at 340 metres above sea level. It's another gorgeous Corsican town with beautiful panoramic views. We paused to enjoy the scenery from the deck of a bar-restaurant and imbibe in a cold drink …<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMDG62x-IuZ6hhVvG_kMakC60_rh5yNGZDcZIKyePAF9XQEQiLKUf_ytry-D2ku7s5CGisI9WYytJDio4XtOp2AsHz6LZGL582lu1DCw9nUVwK4wYB4v17z2jiRrTcpVWMQqc1uAknlxRr/s1600/I+Bie%CC%80re+Pietra.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMDG62x-IuZ6hhVvG_kMakC60_rh5yNGZDcZIKyePAF9XQEQiLKUf_ytry-D2ku7s5CGisI9WYytJDio4XtOp2AsHz6LZGL582lu1DCw9nUVwK4wYB4v17z2jiRrTcpVWMQqc1uAknlxRr/s640/I+Bie%CC%80re+Pietra.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">One of the world's best beer logos?</span></b></i></td></tr>
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In the next photo, looking back towards Ota and beyond to the mountains where we'd been hiking earlier in the day are a number of interesting features. The extensive terracing is one, and the fact that they are now uncultivated when in the past they would have been heavily gardened is another. The retaining walls holding up the road and, indeed, the town is another interesting feature. Below the town is the cemetery, which is a bit unusual. From what we'd seen around Corsica, most of the cemeteries seemed to be in quite elevated positions. Finally, across the valley you can see another roadway, which is testament to the fact that over their long history the Corsicans have developed many routes into their mountainous interior. One can only wonder at what these routes would have been like a century or two ago …<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTP1x4m8JCArad4r-aTEHHtmd-oeHagJXlmOjYP_hAg7E9aqb-JhCtD9zkmNWA0zh9mpG81koDoCjT5ZIQz3chPtzG9FVJqv-yvDahwGeoE2k03Mh1rVSVtilk4l3YfZL2bCoaIIAbahdc/s1600/I+Ota+Pano+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTP1x4m8JCArad4r-aTEHHtmd-oeHagJXlmOjYP_hAg7E9aqb-JhCtD9zkmNWA0zh9mpG81koDoCjT5ZIQz3chPtzG9FVJqv-yvDahwGeoE2k03Mh1rVSVtilk4l3YfZL2bCoaIIAbahdc/s640/I+Ota+Pano+2.jpg" height="256" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Ota panorama</span></b></i></td></tr>
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Our new little treasure the Rother Walking Guide showed a cluster of three walks along the southwest coast, south of Propriano, that looked really good, with another just north of Propriano. Distances are not very great between the walks, and they are all close to the historic town of <a href="http://www.bonifaciocorsica.net/sartene.html" target="_blank">Sartène</a>, which looked like a great place to hang out. We managed to book into the <a href="http://www.tripadvisor.com.au/Hotel_Review-g644100-d636313-Reviews-Hotel_des_Roches-Sartene_Corse_du_Sud_Corsica.html" target="_blank">Hôtel des Roches</a> for four nights, which would leave us one more night before we flew out of Ajaccio. So, the day after our walk in the <a href="http://www.tripadvisor.com.au/ShowUserReviews-g187139-d247581-r138566603-Foret_d_Aitone-Corsica.html" target="_blank">Aitone forests</a> we drove south through Piana again, Di having girded her loins for the windy roads, on through Ajaccio - a forgettable experience - and on to Sartène. The following photo is on the final approach around to the city …<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuNB-Jtt6hUEE6Is7FRou1rEdDTbBOqtAKsHSTkip7oyJrhb4i1T3hPzg5ansmY8gMvtCiK3oZAmfDNXCgGiNs45-FHttqYAowcX79eZWhG5eFFCt1fGC2uKlof70rElYM76Y6YUbOmj1m/s1600/J+Sarte%CC%80ne.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuNB-Jtt6hUEE6Is7FRou1rEdDTbBOqtAKsHSTkip7oyJrhb4i1T3hPzg5ansmY8gMvtCiK3oZAmfDNXCgGiNs45-FHttqYAowcX79eZWhG5eFFCt1fGC2uKlof70rElYM76Y6YUbOmj1m/s640/J+Sarte%CC%80ne.JPG" height="440" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>Sartène</i></b></span></td></tr>
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A couple of things are worth pointing out. Almost exactly in the centre of the photo is a grey tower, which is the church tower in the centre of town and overlooking the central plaza. And, in the bottom right-hand corner is a little cluster of crucifixes. This photo is taken from just alongside the Sartène cemetery, which as the size of the edifices in the next photo illustrate is more like a <i style="font-weight: bold;">city </i>of the dead …<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo53oeY4IA4EqaddGLQFOak2BSP7GaU-FPlgHjQIXG1J8FdE6vo_3QAuX-N1LfELGzC9cqRQ7AyWVWcCjEvUVCljEEA9oDM2Lv_S2YsOmjHDgF5cAutOwr5k86GbUhs3wSWRiCX_tIOJb4/s1600/J+SarteneCemetary+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo53oeY4IA4EqaddGLQFOak2BSP7GaU-FPlgHjQIXG1J8FdE6vo_3QAuX-N1LfELGzC9cqRQ7AyWVWcCjEvUVCljEEA9oDM2Lv_S2YsOmjHDgF5cAutOwr5k86GbUhs3wSWRiCX_tIOJb4/s640/J+SarteneCemetary+1.JPG" height="422" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Sartène's city of the dead</span></b></i></td></tr>
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Along our train journey from Bastia to Calvi, and again while we'd been driving around the countryside we'd noticed that cemeteries were pretty impressive affairs in Corsica. However, for the size of Sartène we thought that its cemetery was pretty big and, most strikingly, featured mostly quite large mausolea. Apparently the Sartène region features large in the whole Corsican <a href="http://www.theguardian.com/world/2001/sep/02/stuartjeffries.theobserver" target="_blank">vendetta</a> tradition, so perhaps that explains the disproportion of very large mausolea. You will probably have noticed that all the crypts are well maintained. We weren't surprised therefore to see work being done close at hand …<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGEcBrYVAQUuQpj_xiU3BK8viTNU8U9TTFPhxbzm0LqMzAvDZ2Q6lMh800DOUitJfakHMqtdJMuYVJ49mhhCHfhyeikWfaMjw0yEubq8Wj2S8lykovTO8OUwC4lptX4kPLoBPv714QBRzQ/s1600/J+SarteneCemetary+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGEcBrYVAQUuQpj_xiU3BK8viTNU8U9TTFPhxbzm0LqMzAvDZ2Q6lMh800DOUitJfakHMqtdJMuYVJ49mhhCHfhyeikWfaMjw0yEubq8Wj2S8lykovTO8OUwC4lptX4kPLoBPv714QBRzQ/s640/J+SarteneCemetary+2.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">A lick of paint to keep the weather out?</span></b></i></td></tr>
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Sartène was a pretty neat town. The old centre-ville is a tiny maze of very windy, very narrow streets. There is a strong sense of Corsican culture. We made a visit to the <a href="http://www.corsica.net/corsica/uk/regsart/sartene/sartmuse.htm" target="_blank">museum of pre-history</a> which was very interesting. There is a small but vibrant arts precinct and while we were there we were lucky enough to attend a highly entertaining open air presentation of <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gmh_SMYFFpE" target="_blank">Don Pasquale</a>, which we discovered was being performed for one night only, which just happened to be our wedding anniversary. After a wonderful dinner at <a href="http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g644100-d4444594-Reviews-U_Sirenu-Sartene_Corse_du_Sud_Corsica.html" target="_blank">U Serena</a> - Di said the lamb was the best she's ever tasted - we queued up at the gate and just managed to get tickets. Even more wonderful: most of the front row was vacant so we wended our way down to get seats almost within touching of the conductor! I did take a couple of short videos with my dinky little camera, which didn't come up very well but a couple of snippets will give a sense of the atmosphere …<br />
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<b><i>The orchestra get things started</i></b></div>
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<b><i>Don Pasquale telling us his troubles</i></b></div>
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All this after a wonderful walk and two swims along the coast from <a href="http://www.everytrail.com/guide/tizzano-costal-hike-toward-campomoro" target="_blank">Tizzano towards Campomoro</a>. Merveilleux! (Don't ask me why I don't have any photos of the walk to share - I just don't know!)<br />
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The next day we set off for walk number 33 in our guidebook: a loop walk which involves getting to <a href="http://www.bonifaciocorsica.net/roccapina-beach.html" target="_blank">Cala de Roccapina</a>, ascending to a Genoese tower, descending to Plage d'Erbaju and then traversing back around throughout the bush to Cala de Roccapina. The book describes it as a "<i style="font-weight: bold;">beautiful short walk</i>" that "<i style="font-weight: bold;">goes through some spectacular rocky scenery and to two of the loveliest beaches on the island</i>". That sounded just great to us.<br />
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Unfortunately, there were two problems with carrying out our plan. The first was that after our wonderful evening at opera we made a bit of a late start and it turned out to be a really warm day. This in itself wouldn't have mattered that much, but when we started driving down the 2.5 kilometre dirt road from the Bocca di Curali towards Cala de Roccapina we discovered it was heavily potholed. One car had stopped in front of us and was turning around. This made us leery about taking our little rental car with its low clearance down it so we also turned around and parked. That meant we had to hike down to the start of the walk and back, adding another 5.0 kilometres to the day out. Finally, I guess when you get right down to it there was also a third problem: we were feeling a bit lazy!<br />
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So we started off and this was the view from from the bocca …<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6OH_DvGIQtgE7HignJBKE7j8MOkpFS66jpKAb4s7Z0x_Y_279it7ywqmEU1lS0_C4MUrGfHTZ6OThcmypQMIzgQdkHkm9DqKMYNQQviuBPe9VWDncXAsMnNSoCHHFfUM1YZ_mcSvPWmlb/s1600/K+Roco+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6OH_DvGIQtgE7HignJBKE7j8MOkpFS66jpKAb4s7Z0x_Y_279it7ywqmEU1lS0_C4MUrGfHTZ6OThcmypQMIzgQdkHkm9DqKMYNQQviuBPe9VWDncXAsMnNSoCHHFfUM1YZ_mcSvPWmlb/s640/K+Roco+1.JPG" height="434" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">View towards Cala de Roccapina and the Lion de Roccapina</span></b></i></td></tr>
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… where you can clearly see the Genoese tower at the top of the ridge on the left and the Lion de Roccapina on the right.<br />
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We walked down to the beach, then up on to the ridge where there is a great view down to the Plage d'Erbaju …<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxnasKF7KulesGBJdVV5XUuPGKc-w6S_j6Vn5yL_sIS_XWgspCUoWwGqRS8VfaFMyvI0jwcoUdb39kQcQUgBRKTUqO1kI6ut2gg8sYY2vAm1Ewkv2tlV9a5rV8cVxoMinVAK6PHnkXJP60/s1600/K+Roco+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxnasKF7KulesGBJdVV5XUuPGKc-w6S_j6Vn5yL_sIS_XWgspCUoWwGqRS8VfaFMyvI0jwcoUdb39kQcQUgBRKTUqO1kI6ut2gg8sYY2vAm1Ewkv2tlV9a5rV8cVxoMinVAK6PHnkXJP60/s640/K+Roco+2.jpg" height="342" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">View down to the Plage d'Erbaju</span></b></i></td></tr>
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After a very brief discussion we decided to admire the view from afar, go have a look at the Genoese tower and then head down to Cala de Roccapina for a swim. Here is a glimpse of the tower - which is built right atop a granite outcrop - as we approach from the seaward side …<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh638Ki4RSR9C_f-q0o8xNPR1yDeJAYhppzLvtaqj22vaHm-VbD3tPhmdzfvpKH8p1pkKiH0rag3LEOxxB67v3g2jqvbke1uJ0dA9NhuVXNuHUt4nMZVgecv6WtwlEv7nz0xlQ9Lu2EAOwF/s1600/K+Roco+3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh638Ki4RSR9C_f-q0o8xNPR1yDeJAYhppzLvtaqj22vaHm-VbD3tPhmdzfvpKH8p1pkKiH0rag3LEOxxB67v3g2jqvbke1uJ0dA9NhuVXNuHUt4nMZVgecv6WtwlEv7nz0xlQ9Lu2EAOwF/s640/K+Roco+3.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Tour de Roccapina</span></b></i></td></tr>
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… and here is another photo of the tower with Di enjoying the view …<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIrF85hDXE6ynynmHRQ0DF8l5R1Vgf8HeoKPwIhL0GVT2IDeSXuFsVcXI-nLNOajMUmGIbar0N5KOzVdZYKi-JMUAtk7U9FfHG8-1A5VeHG-BAEup9zLb2AVIBaitcCMX8lLUfJXWxx_Z4/s1600/K+Roco+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIrF85hDXE6ynynmHRQ0DF8l5R1Vgf8HeoKPwIhL0GVT2IDeSXuFsVcXI-nLNOajMUmGIbar0N5KOzVdZYKi-JMUAtk7U9FfHG8-1A5VeHG-BAEup9zLb2AVIBaitcCMX8lLUfJXWxx_Z4/s640/K+Roco+4.jpg" height="640" width="536" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>Di at the Tour de Roccapina</i></b></span></td></tr>
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This is the view down towards the Cala de Roccapina from the tower …<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidNRdItrfvcTtpOvedHFvC77ol9J9Pn09Oglgj7U97k6WOFzzJgfPIUA4lCdq8m_y5wTl4Rjrg0FHqNONXVkado0VdOQynD6cdCsnIEqb7LVLQ58nSDHH3WsnLvIYVmnBEj_JgKQmu_o04/s1600/K+Roco+5.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidNRdItrfvcTtpOvedHFvC77ol9J9Pn09Oglgj7U97k6WOFzzJgfPIUA4lCdq8m_y5wTl4Rjrg0FHqNONXVkado0VdOQynD6cdCsnIEqb7LVLQ58nSDHH3WsnLvIYVmnBEj_JgKQmu_o04/s640/K+Roco+5.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Cala de Roccapina</span></b></i></td></tr>
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With the temperature in the high twenties and almost no wind, you can probably understand why we were so keen to get down and have a swim! We spent quite a while in the water working up an appetite then slowly wandered back to the car. A short drive to the south took us to another very scenic col where we found a delightful little restaurant with a terrace. We ordered the plât du jour, which was a terrific chicken thing. Back to Sartène, a visit to the museum of prehistory and an enjoyable dinner at the hotel capped the day off nicely.<br />
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For our next day's adventure we chose a walk from Campomoro that goes to a nearby tower and then describes a loop along the coast to a beach and then back via an old mule path that ascends a low spine of rock and eventually finds its way back to Campomoro. It was meant to be about a five hour trip so we brought lunch along: some of those wonderful maqueraux à la moutarde the French love so much, a Corsican cheese and fresh bread from a bakery in Sartène.<br />
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The guide calls this a "<b><i>F</i></b><i style="font-weight: bold;">abulous circular walk on the idyllic southwest coast</i>" and uses phrases such as "<i><b>picture book coastal walk</b></i>", "<i><b>bizarre coastline</b></i>", "<b><i>superb sandy beach</i></b>" and that the return journey features a "<b><i>beautiful high path</i></b>". It sounded a pretty good way to spend another day in southwest Corsica.<br />
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The tower just adjacent to Campomoro is one of the better preserved on the island …<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjadj1vCL_DDFdNQS6f3OcdS0QpQJUw7Mkl2nKyRbybIf7FXPuLKSvwD7Vfxc3aic6E_xGxA9tn5IfX0V1Lygqd-MaEk66B3sHvqE6x9ahCW5XvvJ0-ItxDGaYgcbMsW4eGKlprb6b6xcpM/s1600/L+Campomoro1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjadj1vCL_DDFdNQS6f3OcdS0QpQJUw7Mkl2nKyRbybIf7FXPuLKSvwD7Vfxc3aic6E_xGxA9tn5IfX0V1Lygqd-MaEk66B3sHvqE6x9ahCW5XvvJ0-ItxDGaYgcbMsW4eGKlprb6b6xcpM/s640/L+Campomoro1.jpg" height="640" width="478" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Tour de Campomoro</span></b></i></td></tr>
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It has been restored and you can pay a few Euros to do go inside and have a look around, but it was closed on this particular day.<br />
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Down on the coast we were soon amongst the bizarre and beautiful rock formations described in the guidebook …<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8YjXgXENVUggkbeDx-qzHcX6kejSCGcrbylmkADpNmF6fKstQ8rNl5BT_rGeNWj2fnN4zljM7LqqJjmMggDWqjJSYTIjaXdJlORfKsV70uX-eW-bj7AYbEALjZM6NX5n01SzNcEPatCVU/s1600/L+Campomoro3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8YjXgXENVUggkbeDx-qzHcX6kejSCGcrbylmkADpNmF6fKstQ8rNl5BT_rGeNWj2fnN4zljM7LqqJjmMggDWqjJSYTIjaXdJlORfKsV70uX-eW-bj7AYbEALjZM6NX5n01SzNcEPatCVU/s640/L+Campomoro3.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>Natural gargoyle on the Campomoro coastline</i></b></span></td></tr>
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Once you descend from the tower the route along the coast is very easy to follow for quite a distance and provides great views back towards the tower …<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbFnMn0b9UiVyPXbV5rzFjVp96alnJie2OtZbWOamxnEi2ZMuCiaOUeHp9jWltpAU-r_3DnqNGeN94Zqr1r5kWt3lualN_PymeTaf99pqhWnX9U9XdHwygtQ-nDgf8bGQRd1xG2r7z9e5a/s1600/L+Campomoro4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbFnMn0b9UiVyPXbV5rzFjVp96alnJie2OtZbWOamxnEi2ZMuCiaOUeHp9jWltpAU-r_3DnqNGeN94Zqr1r5kWt3lualN_PymeTaf99pqhWnX9U9XdHwygtQ-nDgf8bGQRd1xG2r7z9e5a/s640/L+Campomoro4.JPG" height="466" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Looking back at the Tour de Campomoro</span></b></i></td></tr>
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At one point the route takes you through a really neat little rocky section, where chains have been installed in case the rocks have been made slippery by a rougher sea than what we experienced on this lovely day out …<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUfgF7U55xBU8REoB2U_1jSJ2Tu2LRbYTSAdBn7UZFnRdES8KlhxjM9X0zfQQ75x8yT-HQvv8CN6eLVlLIYQL2awuKpI7HMWaaetezVrw6Dxjvqw1SHB29owr9uoKbFf0Eb5CiG2QX9xa2/s1600/L+Campomoro5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUfgF7U55xBU8REoB2U_1jSJ2Tu2LRbYTSAdBn7UZFnRdES8KlhxjM9X0zfQQ75x8yT-HQvv8CN6eLVlLIYQL2awuKpI7HMWaaetezVrw6Dxjvqw1SHB29owr9uoKbFf0Eb5CiG2QX9xa2/s640/L+Campomoro5.jpg" height="640" width="478" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">We didn't need the chains on </span></b></i><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>this occasion ...</i></b></span></td></tr>
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After an hour or so we found ourselves at a fantastic little beach, the Cala d'Aguglia. It was totally deserted when we arrived and we enjoyed a wonderful lengthy swim before getting out and having our lunch. The guidebook uses the word "idyllic" to describe this walk and we certainly found this beach to be just that. A couple of small boats with just two people on each of them arrived as we were having lunch, and then another couple arrived on foot. All very quiet and sedate - quite a contrast to Girolata a couple of days earlier. Here is a glimpse back as we farewell this gorgeous, secluded spot …<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggwD1gKvVpzBoToXRh5eb_d3JzKlFpOxnPD68K8-c57thOYe35KAkKszwclYooBvwdYANNj_kvdTsNXVNPWaeHkYD4SbTaOhB6lpPCibQ4P1WibYsslGzFSG8mlGiOezEPo4P4QJTrn-CA/s1600/L+Campomoro6.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggwD1gKvVpzBoToXRh5eb_d3JzKlFpOxnPD68K8-c57thOYe35KAkKszwclYooBvwdYANNj_kvdTsNXVNPWaeHkYD4SbTaOhB6lpPCibQ4P1WibYsslGzFSG8mlGiOezEPo4P4QJTrn-CA/s640/L+Campomoro6.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Cala d'Aguglia</span></b></i></td></tr>
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As I mentioned earlier, in the Sartène region the tradition of vendetta was apparently quite strong. We wondered if two - actually three when I come to think about it - things we noticed while we were in staying in Sartène might be evidence that traces of the vendetta culture still exist. One was that a set of public toilets was closed off as a crime scene. Another was that there were a large number of gendarmes staying at our hotel. And finally, when we were finishing this wonderful walk from Campomoro we passed by a massive funeral entourage assembling in the small, idyllic seaside village. We were gobsmacked at the hundreds and hundreds of people gathering, all dressed in black, all very stern looking. I thought briefly about taking a photo of the crowd gathering but wasn't sure it would go down well so decided against it. But it did make us wonder ...<br />
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A final word on the Sartène region before we leave it behind. It is also known for its <a href="http://www.wine-searcher.com/regions-corse+sartene" target="_blank">high quality wines</a>, so if you're on a walking and wining tour of Corsica, don't miss it!<br />
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On our last full day in Corsica we had a leisurely start and then a circuitous drive to go a very short distance north to a gîte in the hamlet of <a href="https://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=Bisinao,+Albitreccia,+France&aq=0&oq=Bisinao&sll=41.8419,8.87284&sspn=0.062472,0.096045&vpsrc=6&t=h&ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=Bisinao,+Albitreccia,+Corse-du-Sud,+Corse,+France&ll=41.84188,8.872833&spn=0.062472,0.096045&z=14" target="_blank">Bisinao</a> that had been recommended to us by a Polish/English couple named Monika and Matt. We'd met Monika and Matt in Bastia. They were on their way to do various walks around the island before heading off to New Zealand for a very big adventure: they were hoping to walk the length of the two islands. (It must be time we checked on where they are at with their plans.) We reconnected with them for a lunch in Propriano after we'd finished the GR20 and they'd done the <a href="http://corsica.forhikers.com/mare-monti-nord" target="_blank">Tra Mare e Monti Nord</a> and bits of some of the other multi-day hikes on Corsica. The two M's had been through Bisinau while hiking the <a href="http://corsica.forhikers.com/mare-monti-sud" target="_blank">Mare e Monti Sud</a> and stayed at <a href="http://giteafuntana.com/" target="_blank">A Funtana</a> and loved it.<br />
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This proved to be an excellent way to finish our sojourn in Corsica. Dominique, the owner of the gîte was a most pleasant host and a very good cook, the gîte itself was very comfortable and the quiet hamlet of Bisinau is perched in a beautiful, elevated position. The next day we had to have our rental car at Nopolean Bonaparte Airport in Ajaccio by 10:00 a.m. so we meandered on down there and had a couple of hours before boarding our flight to Toulouse. And that was it for us in Corsica - but we hope to be back again some day!<br />
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<i><span style="font-size: large;">Au revoir L'Île de Beauté!</span></i></div>
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<h3>
Part B: Tripping around Toulouse</h3>
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<h4>
<u>Montségur</u></h4>
Our friend Michel had insisted that we come and spend a few days back in Toulouse with him and Brigitte after we finished up in Corsica - not that we needed persuading. We'd discussed visiting the famous medieval city of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carcassonne" target="_blank">Carcassonne</a> - now a world heritage site - and perhaps having a scenic flight to the Pyrenees if the weather was suitable. (Along with being a helicopter pilot, Michel is licensed to fly fixed-wing aircraft.) We had three full days to spend in Toulouse after our arrival on Friday afternoon. Friday evening was spent at a bistrôt near Michel's place where live music was playing. A very pleasant start to our visit.<br />
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The next day proved to be a real treat, with Michel and Brigitte surprising and spoiling us once again. Here is a map of the approximate route we covered in the Ariège area to the south of Toulouse …<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7RcqVBk2TAiuezRHfApMJEPtRxifcsxtVnJfzTQ2ZajGpeXP9LcgslBVA040aqmQkjBPvmqu47Y_uX3ZS7VqcC4hX4H9yMfEl5aws9jGGpx8OR6b9RmS0l4iZoT9MiR42cIBpzMxFXpvc/s1600/Montsegur:Mirepoix:Carcassonne.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7RcqVBk2TAiuezRHfApMJEPtRxifcsxtVnJfzTQ2ZajGpeXP9LcgslBVA040aqmQkjBPvmqu47Y_uX3ZS7VqcC4hX4H9yMfEl5aws9jGGpx8OR6b9RmS0l4iZoT9MiR42cIBpzMxFXpvc/s640/Montsegur:Mirepoix:Carcassonne.jpg" height="512" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Saturday 28th of September</span></b></i></td></tr>
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Yes, we did visit Carcassonne, but only after experiencing two other fantastic cultural sites that were previously unknown to us. The first of these was the ancient <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ch%C3%A2teau_de_Monts%C3%A9gur" target="_blank">Château de Montségur</a> and the little town of Montségur that is nestled beneath the ruins of the castle. Montségur was the last stronghold for the <a href="http://www.cathar.info/" target="_blank">Cathars</a> in the Languedoc region of southeastern France. The movement had become so attractive to people in this part of France that the Roman Catholic church decided it had to erased. The final act in this brutal tragedy - yet another indelible stain on the history of religion - came in March 1254 after ten thousand Catholic troops had been held at bay by <i><b>100</b></i> Cathar fighters for nine months. The fortress' defences were penetrated at night via a precipice that had been thought to be impregnable. Two hundred and twenty Cathars who refused to renounce their faith - based on equality, pacifism and modest living - were marched to a field beneath the castle and burned alive.<br />
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Visiting Montségur was a very moving experience. I took a few pictures but was really more <i><b><a href="http://www.shmoop.com/macbeth/ambition-quotes.html" target="_blank">rapt withal</a></b></i> in being there and trying to get a feel for the place to do too much camera-pointing. However here are a few things to look at, like the view down to a section of the road leading to the village below …<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0g4iJ6wKf_ZIHfpWwQK4CN88N-2_HWxTG04RgF6lToKAMgZ8fMTtRq93lYcajZq6Py3i8piUunsBf9c2dhUYBs5foB3y-wGf4VF3xFpj7FBEukhAls8oRxHxN7qKN2kdfbqCg7RW5WNnB/s1600/P1030321.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0g4iJ6wKf_ZIHfpWwQK4CN88N-2_HWxTG04RgF6lToKAMgZ8fMTtRq93lYcajZq6Py3i8piUunsBf9c2dhUYBs5foB3y-wGf4VF3xFpj7FBEukhAls8oRxHxN7qKN2kdfbqCg7RW5WNnB/s640/P1030321.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
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… and the village itself …<br />
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It was a bit cool and misty when we arrived at Montségur, which only added to the atmosphere of the place. As you can probably imagine it's a short but strenuous walk up to the ruins of the chateau, but if you are ever in the area we'd highly recommend a visit. <a href="http://www.tripadvisor.com.au/Attraction_Review-g668420-d1169379-Reviews-Chateau_de_Montsegur-Montsegur_Ariege_Midi_Pyrenees.html" target="_blank">All these folks on TripAdvisor</a> can't be wrong!<br />
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The sun poked out and blue sky did appear briefly, as this shot alongside one wall shows …<br />
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There is a sad little graveyard just out of shot down to the right. There have been some preservation and repairs done to the castle but it is largely a shell. As with all those old fortifications the walls were incredibly thick as this photo inside shows …<br />
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The village of Montségur below the castle is a pleasant place where a number of weavers and at least one fine woodworker are busy plying their crafts. Interestingly, this area and the Cathars themselves, were well-known for the craft of weaving in the Middle Ages.<br />
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Here is a view looking back up at the stronghold from the village …<br />
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I did like the name of this restaurant and grabbed a photo of it as well …<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9hDOmA2cn6-ftO1-IAuQpc0iMBecyxA8Ywj0OMnhAZhYG36sCjEYglbq-01PZRxzpyvViLTEhA19Y9hiYZCRTsHLdGLJ18_OdkbleFbMHGsgvX-7IdgvKc8d9k0WOiaV6I90tQ_EFACK6/s1600/Restaurant.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9hDOmA2cn6-ftO1-IAuQpc0iMBecyxA8Ywj0OMnhAZhYG36sCjEYglbq-01PZRxzpyvViLTEhA19Y9hiYZCRTsHLdGLJ18_OdkbleFbMHGsgvX-7IdgvKc8d9k0WOiaV6I90tQ_EFACK6/s640/Restaurant.jpg" height="342" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">A Potato Who Smokes???</span></b></i></td></tr>
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There are a large number of <a href="http://www.castlesandmanorhouses.com/summary.php?Category=(All+Categories)&Type=(All+Properties)&Country=(All+Countries)&Parameter=Cathar" target="_blank">Cathar castles</a> scattered throughout the traditional <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Languedoc" target="_blank">Languedoc</a> region. Indeed, Carcassonne itself was built by the Cathars. For history buffs who like to combine that passion with a good walk, <a href="http://www.lesentiercathare.com/" target="_blank">Le Sentier Cathare</a> is a 250 kilometre walk from Port La Nouvelle on the Mediterranean to Foix in the Ariège, which visits these historic sites and takes about twelve days to complete. Without trying to be a plug for Cicerone Press, they have a <a href="http://www.cicerone.co.uk/product/detail.cfm/book/486/title/the-cathar-way" target="_blank">guidebook</a> with all the information you need to walk, eat and sleep your way along the route. Who knows, we might meet en route some day ...<br />
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<u>Mirepoix</u></h4>
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Back in the car, we left Montségur for Carcassonne, but Michel said he wanted to have a stop along the way for some lunch. That sounded good, but it wasn't until we arrived at <a href="http://www.frenchconnections.co.uk/en/guide/city/133122-mirepoix-ariege" target="_blank">Mirepoix</a> that we discovered he had another medieval treat in store for us.While only a small town of about 3000 people, it has beautifully preserved its medieval flavour around its central square. Oh, and by the way, there is also a church which was originally built in 1298 and subsequently transformed over the ages into a cathedral with a Gothic nave that is the second widest in Europe.</div>
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After a delicious lunch we found this street leading into the central square which provided a charming prelude …</div>
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… to the square itself where all the surrounding buildings provide sheltered walkways all the way around …</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">The Three Amigos</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPPXYKS0FLurf9O0-oWtwAQ6-7VNRBAqhLM3yV02VmdsEKpesNl1j4BNeqw3FTTQXid7QY0hx9thNrgBGkkoXf-Dq5f6f0MqudqGEicLL6XwdTui447vi9gNTsMld3mN0VPLsHAM1s9HUZ/s1600/P1030337.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPPXYKS0FLurf9O0-oWtwAQ6-7VNRBAqhLM3yV02VmdsEKpesNl1j4BNeqw3FTTQXid7QY0hx9thNrgBGkkoXf-Dq5f6f0MqudqGEicLL6XwdTui447vi9gNTsMld3mN0VPLsHAM1s9HUZ/s640/P1030337.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Colourful façades, shutters and window boxes</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">The Mayor's Office</span></b></i></td></tr>
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We had a wander around the immediate area and over to the cathedral. On the way we passed through a pretty little courtyard …</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMnJRY0AG4Pk-NDYteEwArODfFCXGarCCzBWXiy1ehszt620qBNZPRCUDTcZRPyv3pky_wAOsx3OQb8jshWVlyzVDgKLzPSBE0nSugU41bZp5NDBJ-7qebSrenBhJjZIQfG0Gh5a1ySUmg/s1600/P1030343.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMnJRY0AG4Pk-NDYteEwArODfFCXGarCCzBWXiy1ehszt620qBNZPRCUDTcZRPyv3pky_wAOsx3OQb8jshWVlyzVDgKLzPSBE0nSugU41bZp5NDBJ-7qebSrenBhJjZIQfG0Gh5a1ySUmg/s640/P1030343.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Courtyard composition</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsqEr2G1xW5fPkGpjrbXClxjnzF7dkruCA_gytjxjxP64rzoxrInJNm-JDHtyMyGRS8Bl4QCoJWV5tmKfbQTpgy5ZOOmpWhPFugbVue024fUfg4PQi5B7djTS543bjENkGdubkYS_ZfJ-r/s1600/P1030344.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsqEr2G1xW5fPkGpjrbXClxjnzF7dkruCA_gytjxjxP64rzoxrInJNm-JDHtyMyGRS8Bl4QCoJWV5tmKfbQTpgy5ZOOmpWhPFugbVue024fUfg4PQi5B7djTS543bjENkGdubkYS_ZfJ-r/s400/P1030344.jpg" height="400" width="301" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Door and shutters</span></b></i></td></tr>
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Di found a fellow traveller …</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK30eZb2qb5YmRwUC5jB5bd6WmcoloOa1yV64HFgq-w_av7Ld1KIC7ZDaqdgCsyDrstBQNfny2CcMPOTWaSab53JmJf_6_UK1_mP8hGriLCxhcMSGFXR8gTlMfalGwPAWZflbOPWSwPGmW/s1600/P1030342.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK30eZb2qb5YmRwUC5jB5bd6WmcoloOa1yV64HFgq-w_av7Ld1KIC7ZDaqdgCsyDrstBQNfny2CcMPOTWaSab53JmJf_6_UK1_mP8hGriLCxhcMSGFXR8gTlMfalGwPAWZflbOPWSwPGmW/s640/P1030342.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">A Crone(y) perhaps?</span></b></i></td></tr>
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Getting good photos inside the cathedral was difficult because of the light and the inadequacies of my dinky little camera, but perhaps this one image will give some idea of what it's like …</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPIbIRwhJNt5y3WBdF_WZx6KUYN4NUoMuWfY-JHxEk8cLMITLWO5LMVdg8Yk8eTsdo8XOUve5yn4jIf8hpDPECkt-R3lat-w3ndT3oV0Mwk1znF8gsx6QYVcRhcIFFiMP7f7knaOYpdjoE/s1600/P1030352.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPIbIRwhJNt5y3WBdF_WZx6KUYN4NUoMuWfY-JHxEk8cLMITLWO5LMVdg8Yk8eTsdo8XOUve5yn4jIf8hpDPECkt-R3lat-w3ndT3oV0Mwk1znF8gsx6QYVcRhcIFFiMP7f7knaOYpdjoE/s640/P1030352.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Cathedral Saint-Jerôme</span></b></i></td></tr>
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Like many of France's grand cathedrals, this one is now owned and maintained by the state.</div>
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<h4>
<u>Carcassonne</u></h4>
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We arrived at the restored city of Carcassonne in light rain and pretty gloomy conditions but there was still a very large cohort of tourists about the place and several serious photographers. An order from the French government was actually given in the mid 19th Century to destroy what was left of the original castle. This caused a huge outcry amongst the population and the decision was reversed leading eventually to full restoration. Here are a couple of views entering the walled city …</div>
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… and another just inside the main entrance …</div>
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Another gate into an inner courtyard and ramparts …</div>
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… and inside that courtyard …</div>
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Here is a bit of detail of construction materials and fittings …</div>
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… a view of the entrance to the cathedral …</div>
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… detail of the archway and adornments above …</div>
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… and a closer view of one of the gargoyles protecting the entryway …</div>
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As you'd expect, there was a huge number of shops selling memorabilia of the Middle Ages within the fortified walls of Carcassonne. Before we left we came across a fantastic store with lots of brilliant costumes and to our delight we found a great little medieval knight's costume for our grandson. His older sister has lots of dress-up gear and we thought it only fair that he get something gender-specific. And that capped off a fantastic day of culture for us. We really felt privileged to have been taken on such a wonderful day tour, and would have gone home feeling like our holiday in France had been made complete after such a wonderfully rich range of experiences in the three regions of Bretagne, Corse and the part of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Languedoc-Roussillon" target="_blank">Languedoc-Roussillon</a> just south of Toulouse. But Michel had one - or should I say two - more experiences still in store for us.</div>
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<u><i>FLYING!</i></u></h4>
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The title of this post is "Maintaining the High". Well, the next two days took us to new heights - literally. The day after our driving tour was Sunday. Michel had hoped to take Brigitte, Dianne and me to the <a href="http://www.summitpost.org/cirque-de-gavarnie/151962" target="_blank">Cirque de Gavarnie</a> (incidentally, a World Heritage Site in its own right) in one of the light planes that his flying club owns. When we walked through the Pyrenees in 2010 (which was when we first met Michel) the cirque was one of the highlights of the trip and is in the <a href="http://www.parc-pyrenees.com/" target="_blank">Parc National des Pyrenees</a>. The weather wasn't good enough for that but Michel was still determined to get us up in the skies for a look around. Here's a photo of the four of us in front of the plane …</div>
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As you can see in the background, there was a fair bit of cloud about and the ride was a little bumpy in places so we didn't go too far. But what a buzz - I even got to steer a bit!</div>
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As I said, it was Sunday. We had one more day to spend in Toulouse before flying to Paris and then on home to Tasmania. We thought we'd do a little sightseeing on Monday and get our packing sorted. Brigitte had to work so it would just be Michel, Dianne and myself. The next morning however Michel had other ideas, especially as the weather was looking pretty good. Not good enough to fly west towards Gavarnie and the higher mountains, but good enough to fly into the eastern Pyrenees. Almost as good, hey - actually- - maybe even better! We'd be getting a look at the area where we finished our massive <a href="http://dougandi.smugmug.com/TraversingthePyrenees" target="_blank">forty-five day trek across the length of the Pyrenees</a>, from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean.</div>
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On the way we flew right over Montségur which really cemented the place in our psyches. Here are a few photos looking across at the fortress …</div>
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… and another putting the fortress into context above the surrounding landscape …</div>
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Next we continued south over the spa town of Ax-les-Thermes and on into the heart of the mountains, flying directly towards the <a href="https://maps.google.fr/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=fr&t=p&msa=0&msid=114927448810928838247.000493f1e520d57a58f37&ll=42.638,1.730347&spn=1.818454,3.977051&z=8&source=embed&dg=feature" target="_blank">Refuge de Ruhle</a>, the mountain hut where we had met Michel for the first time ...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2VYi6yNObVyytcTwhIgsWuz6wyBJOVw1gGxL3nDOx8B0fwdx90JjDnKyNjssSLrc1m_IVtikZYNMsPNOlmxEOagWSTOjh16KBaHcG7oOCJWa9lWzDlyTcYD1_qVFF9Wgm05EY4bY2CxXh/s1600/Toulouse3+RdR.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2VYi6yNObVyytcTwhIgsWuz6wyBJOVw1gGxL3nDOx8B0fwdx90JjDnKyNjssSLrc1m_IVtikZYNMsPNOlmxEOagWSTOjh16KBaHcG7oOCJWa9lWzDlyTcYD1_qVFF9Wgm05EY4bY2CxXh/s640/Toulouse3+RdR.JPG" height="462" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Refuge de Ruhle</span></b></i></td></tr>
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… and then it was a left-hand turn towards the Mediterranean Sea, where we flew past the most famous mountain of the Catalan region, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canigou" target="_blank">Pic Canigou</a> which is highly symbolic to the ethnic Catalan people. There is a huge cross atop the summit adorned more often than not with a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Estelada" target="_blank">Catalan flag</a>.</div>
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This was quite an emotional moment for us, as it is the first time in the long trek across the Pyrenees from west to east that one is able to see the Mediterranean, and the last peak over two thousand metres to be climbed in the traverse (at 2,784 metres it really dominates the landscape). Here is a photo as we are nearing the face which you climb as you approach from <a href="http://www.refugedemariailles.fr/anglais/index.ang.html" target="_blank">Refuge de Mariailles</a> just to the west ...</div>
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… and another a little closer up of the summit block …</div>
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As you can see, the track traverses in from the right until it reaches the middle of three obvious gullies. This is actually an amazing natural staircase that takes you right to the summit where you pop out right by the giant steel cross. Amazing!</div>
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There was still plenty more to see on the way back, but Michel had one last special treat for us. <a href="http://www.catharcastles.info/puilaurens.php?key=puilaurens" target="_blank">Château Puilaurens</a> is perhaps the most beautiful remaining Cathar castle. Here's a view as we are closing in …</div>
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… and another from quite a lot closer …</div>
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I said that was the final treat Michel had in store. That's not quite true. After the half hour or so it took us to get back to Toulouse (I got to steer AGAIN!) Michel lined the plane up, cut the propulsion from the engine to the prop and glided the plane in for a perfect, whisper-quiet landing. Magnifique!</div>
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We felt so lucky to have finished our holiday in such a wonderful way, spoiled to the degree we were by the hospitality of our dear friends in Toulouse. We hope you have enjoyed revisiting those experiences with us and that maybe some of you will enjoy some of the experiences first-hand yourselves some day.</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><i>Bon chance!</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><i>Doug et Dianne</i></span></div>
Doughttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12724255802945843203noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2556783246652350110.post-60750987146457395792013-10-30T23:26:00.001+11:002014-07-09T18:53:36.932+10:00Day Twelve on the GR20 ~ Bavella to Conca: Done and Dusted!<h2>
<i>The Magic Continues All the Way to Conca</i></h2>
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Although escape to civilisation is always close at hand and a hot meal at a refuge or gîte can be had each night en route, in many ways the GR20 is still quite a wild walk. Much of the track is rough and rocky, making the going quite demanding. In quite a few places, especially - but not only - in the northern section, there is some energetic scrambling where you've got no choice but use your hands. While the paths don't visit the heights of some of the big walks in the Alps, there are places with terrific exposure where you want to move carefully. For me though, what makes the GR a "wild" place is simply the incredibly rugged nature of the landscape. And, amazingly, this ruggedness is sustained right through the last day of the route - which I hope will be illustrated in this post.</div>
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A digression though before continuing. A couple of days ago the seminal rock and roll artist Lou Reed kicked the bucket. Given his lifestyle, it wasn't a big surprise that he died of complications after a liver transplant. Anyway, those of you who are somewhere around my age and familiar with his music and have put one and one together will know what's coming; here's a rendition of Lou Reed's greatest hit:</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><i>Wild, eh!</i></span></div>
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Okay, back to business. Despite having a fairly long walk ahead of us we weren't bothered to make an early start from the Village de Bavella on the last day. For one thing, there was relatively little climbing to be done and what there was looked to be generally quite gradual. There was lots of descending in the offing, but even that looked mostly easy. Here are the figures for the walk ...</div>
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<li>Distance: 19 km</li>
<li>Total ascent: 700 m</li>
<li>Total descent: 1670 m</li>
<li>Time: 7 hours</li>
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It looked like a lovely day awaited us. Here are some snippets illustrating what Paddy Dillon has to say about today's walk ... "<i style="font-weight: bold;">apart from a few steep and rugged climbs .. it is mostly an easy walk, and some parts of the path are level and pose no problems. The mountain scenery is remarkably good throughout the first half of the walk, and the surroundings remain quite rugged right to the end. However, there is a definite feel that height is being lost - the vegetation becomes more exotic, the temperature rises, and ultimately walkers see the village of Conca beckoning, with the sea beyond</i>". (He has a nice turn of phrase, doesn't he?)</div>
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... and here's what the route looks like on the map ...</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>Village de Bavella to Conca</i></b></span></td></tr>
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If you look closely at the map you will see that the route winds its way through and past some very rugged little peaks, especially in its first half. There is a refuge that some people use as their last stop before heading to Conca - and others use as a base camp for rock climbing nearby - tucked in under some of those crags about an hour and a half after leaving Bavella.</div>
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We'd decided we would stay in Conca for the night rather than rush to get there in time for the shuttle to Porto Vecchio, so the time listed in the guide didn't really concern us. So, we had a relatively leisurely petit déjeuner at the Auberge de Col de Bavella and set out at about 7:20. As we emerged from breakfast we were greeted by the sun shining on the crags opposite ...</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Welcome to my morning</span></b></i></td></tr>
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So off down the initial hill along the road and into the forest we went. The trail was a little steep and rocky at first but then the going got easier before ascending fairly steeply (don't mind that when it's over a short distance because it gets the climbing over quickly) up to the Foce Finosa, the first major landmark for the day ...</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Foce Finosa</span></b></i></td></tr>
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I liked this sign because it made it clear to folks that they should carry out their rubbish! Actually, apart from the post-poo "white flowers" in so many places - especially in the first half of the route - there was very little garbage along the trail. Another little touch that I liked was the subtle addition of red dots above the "i's" to emphasise the grand randonnée nature of the route.</div>
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Another aside: apparently more and more folks are doing the GR20 from the south, and quite a few of them bypass this stage - perhaps because of the 1670 metres of ascent on the first day. My hardline view is that you can't say you've done the GR if you've missed a stage and started up in the mountains so you've got a downhill run over the course of the route! But more importantly, omitting the first stage means that one misses some absolutely gorgeous scenery.</div>
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As we started to drop down off the Foce Finosa these crags came into view between the trees ...</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Laricio Pines and Granite Cliffs</span></b></i></td></tr>
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Unfortunately, we didn't see much sunshine after that. In fact, within about an hour of our leaving the Village de Bavella the clouds started to thicken up and we only got the occasional window of sunlight shining on the peaks. Views were still good though, just somewhat muted in colour at times ...</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">The way ahead is through them </span></b></i><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>thar mountains ...</i></b></span></td></tr>
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The fern-lined track took us down steeply past some rock draped in vegetation ...</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Gray and green</span></b></i></td></tr>
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... and around through some interestingly eroded features ...</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Up through a keyhole slot</span></b></i></td></tr>
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... before traversing a great path up on a hillside ...</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Pausing on the balcony to look at the view</span></b></i></td></tr>
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Di has paused at this point because we felt compelled to enjoy the view across the way. Cloud was swirling about the peaks even more at this stage, creating quite an atmospheric effect with the occasional shaft of sun highlighting patches of cliff. Here's what Di is looking across at ...</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">The ruggedness of the GR continues to impress</span></b></i></td></tr>
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The sky was constantly changing at this stage. Just a minute later the sun had gone, but a bit of cloud had also blown away to reveal an impressive tower high on the skyline ...</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>An impressive skyline</i></b></span></td></tr>
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As we moved further into the valley a tower that had just been another interesting feature in the landscape (refer to the 4th photo below the map) revealed more of itself. I think it's the Punta di l'Anima Damnata, which we traversed right past ...</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Punta di l'Anima Damnata</span></b></i></td></tr>
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By this stage we were nearing the Refuge d'I Paliri. Here's a thought if you might walk the GR20 starting from the south: the Refuge d'I Paliri is in a gorgeous setting. There is wonderful camping there if you decide to carry a tent. Stopping here would make a great start to the walk, especially if you were to make a late start from Conca. We were almost sorry to not be stopping ourselves on our way south and perhaps this is another spot we'll hike to if we ever get back to Corsica.</div>
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The views in all directions as we neared the Refuge d'I Paliri were just wonderful. Here's another ...</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">An atmospheric morning</span></b></i></td></tr>
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A little way past the refuge when we were travelling through the forest we came to a spot where wild boars had been busy rooting around amongst the fallen pine needles ...</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Something must have smelled good</span></b></i></td></tr>
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As we came the Punta di l'Anima Damnata we were amazed to see that its south face was even more beautiful than the northwest aspect ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIcb30hM2dYtJLsLKdxUWTF_KAZjCP7o13o3t8NzxOWayqjaBvkwxEpO_DQ1_pwVaWxZ30OkV6wNaLuq3-uh8fmxpWwqjJv6b_GKO6fO9AVhaykJ1Heq3fAa_TCMsC8oI5MfBGUH22dpq-/s1600/O+Day+12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIcb30hM2dYtJLsLKdxUWTF_KAZjCP7o13o3t8NzxOWayqjaBvkwxEpO_DQ1_pwVaWxZ30OkV6wNaLuq3-uh8fmxpWwqjJv6b_GKO6fO9AVhaykJ1Heq3fAa_TCMsC8oI5MfBGUH22dpq-/s640/O+Day+12.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">An orange goddess cloaked in green</span></b></i></td></tr>
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With the wind driving the clouds across the sky, the light was changing moment by moment before our eyes as I was taking the photos to make up this panorama ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo5mJ03Ie818p_gNfXtfAJ_Z2aK21flxihLEdRU0o90x7rF2qpFEZMMs6g9BY-y5NAF6g9xnx5Z_foQWjf5Ku0QiivJizwjKZHddpxWpKidGolTQIAsphDyk32XgKBKISLt4Yp1js0mQ2o/s1600/P+Day+12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo5mJ03Ie818p_gNfXtfAJ_Z2aK21flxihLEdRU0o90x7rF2qpFEZMMs6g9BY-y5NAF6g9xnx5Z_foQWjf5Ku0QiivJizwjKZHddpxWpKidGolTQIAsphDyk32XgKBKISLt4Yp1js0mQ2o/s640/P+Day+12.jpg" height="294" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">An incisor emerging from the depths of the earth</span></b></i></td></tr>
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It actually started spitting at about this time but, because it was so warm, we didn't bother to put on our rain jackets and instead just picked up the pace a little. Shortly after I took this photo we had a descent to a river crossing below quite an attractive waterfall. There's no photo because it was raining a bit more at that point.</div>
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A bit of a climb followed. We didn't realise it at the time, but this would be the last significant ascent of the day. (Di kept rattling on about a big climb ahead - she was delighted when it didn't materialise!) Once we were up high more great views appeared in pretty much every direction. This panorama gives just a hint of what there was to see ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSG_Nr7ZYGkS-PUma2FYJK60Frs6vQSP0XCE8IGxrK6svhQPLScF_MR29sjeMmWqZxQPiYjos7cREj1hFVTZSOue6nG16skCc4UKSYAOX2GgxdzukeeWP0NIjLK2ZH-1FNLmu_Ghi653wY/s1600/Q+Day+12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSG_Nr7ZYGkS-PUma2FYJK60Frs6vQSP0XCE8IGxrK6svhQPLScF_MR29sjeMmWqZxQPiYjos7cREj1hFVTZSOue6nG16skCc4UKSYAOX2GgxdzukeeWP0NIjLK2ZH-1FNLmu_Ghi653wY/s640/Q+Day+12.jpg" height="274" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">Crags, pines and maquis</span></i></b></td></tr>
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The next shot shows an iconic peak in Corsica. I'm not sure what it's called but we saw lots of photos of it, featuring the prominent hole right through it ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBu_hD5-sJtuyFGcrFxxaYB6l1L8YKbGxQwWX-TK0K-1xziYYmEnISKaHMP6wmXbv5F3OKfds1SiVoDilZfyCIYpNcqPm3YtS75E7UD_93m3xkHXu27lITZViLBJyRaUM5LF4xTLcKBqeJ/s1600/R+Day+12.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBu_hD5-sJtuyFGcrFxxaYB6l1L8YKbGxQwWX-TK0K-1xziYYmEnISKaHMP6wmXbv5F3OKfds1SiVoDilZfyCIYpNcqPm3YtS75E7UD_93m3xkHXu27lITZViLBJyRaUM5LF4xTLcKBqeJ/s640/R+Day+12.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Holey moley! Look at that!</span></b></i></td></tr>
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By this time it was raining lightly but pretty steadily, so I didn't take many more photos. We were getting pretty keen to minimise the time we had left on the trail as it did look like more rain was on the way. It did rain more heavily, quite a lot more heavily, but luckily not before we traversed across some lovely granite slabs. They were starting to get a little slippery, so we had to be a little careful when we were actually on the rock. Here we are approaching some of them ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP8QDcY6OFePRzWH3TIkJYuxL77c0NdXOQ3V-iZuCkvWzU5WWESnLOMtMdWbbcVQ_N7y1LTm5VV6vsDBdkwNHcwzTxnVFnrYRZ5jJV3m_LKiWHnHK9s8fP84n4YrTSDP6x1XEkuuF7iTsr/s1600/S+Day+12.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP8QDcY6OFePRzWH3TIkJYuxL77c0NdXOQ3V-iZuCkvWzU5WWESnLOMtMdWbbcVQ_N7y1LTm5VV6vsDBdkwNHcwzTxnVFnrYRZ5jJV3m_LKiWHnHK9s8fP84n4YrTSDP6x1XEkuuF7iTsr/s640/S+Day+12.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Slabs amongst pockets of pines</span></b></i></td></tr>
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Shortly after that photo was taken it started raining properly, putting an end to photographs. We figured we probably had about an hour of walking left so we just hoofed it. One of us was starting to feel a little tired but a little encouragement fixed that. It was still warm so we reasoned we might as well leave our rain jackets off as we'd get just as wet sweating under them as we would from the rain.</div>
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A few minutes after one o'clock we hit the road leading down to Conca ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1lrinqjdCHydb_ZSr3a7gkTTzl6P4BRhMk5S0KJ6Uaod5qhosa2c4RXXtuzfgmYJMTfkQ8lLiuNPjVldJE5dUT9ekgQ1WUBFy7ogdkhuyJ0u9dvtlNoJXadBtBO1ACAoG2i5hdTCt7xW3/s1600/T+Day+12.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1lrinqjdCHydb_ZSr3a7gkTTzl6P4BRhMk5S0KJ6Uaod5qhosa2c4RXXtuzfgmYJMTfkQ8lLiuNPjVldJE5dUT9ekgQ1WUBFy7ogdkhuyJ0u9dvtlNoJXadBtBO1ACAoG2i5hdTCt7xW3/s640/T+Day+12.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Nearly there!</span></b></i></td></tr>
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The sign is advertising La Tonnelle, the gîte d'étape we headed for once we made it the 900 metres down the road. But, before that, we had the obligatory stop at the bar in town (acknowledgement: this photo is from <a href="http://www.cicerone.co.uk/product/detail.cfm/book/477/" target="_blank">Paddy Dillon's guidebook</a>) ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV9LU889bURTHw0eyp8b8rI_f5Itp-lXRsKG5Bg1yCkVfDtD6PvDgMAAFnSaEa5NICvUboIlV5n0zVhhbZ0CsSDMv-r4LNEkBm3j1cZE2Mz_trMW43lXpGe8itZc2Vcs9WMKdAiFh45Ow3/s1600/U+Day+12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV9LU889bURTHw0eyp8b8rI_f5Itp-lXRsKG5Bg1yCkVfDtD6PvDgMAAFnSaEa5NICvUboIlV5n0zVhhbZ0CsSDMv-r4LNEkBm3j1cZE2Mz_trMW43lXpGe8itZc2Vcs9WMKdAiFh45Ow3/s400/U+Day+12.jpg" height="400" width="353" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">The other (see Stage One) Bar du GR20</span></b></i></td></tr>
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A word about <a href="http://www.ot-portovecchio.com/porto-vecchio/fiche.php?lang=en&menu=34&idfic=234" target="_blank">La Tonnelle</a>, the gîte at the end of the route: <i><b>excellent</b></i>! It's a great place to stop in so many ways. You can get either a private room, a bed in a dormitory room or pitch your tent. Plenty of beer and food and the restaurant is terrific. But more than anything, the hospitality is fantastic.</div>
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Once the excitement dies down, finishing seems to feel a bit anti-climatic, whether it was doing the route or writing this retrospective blog. Especially with a couple of less interesting photos. So. Here's one last look back at the GR to re-emphasise that the beauty keeps going right to the last couple of hours of the last day ... a little slice of life, as it were ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq15EeQa0bSBJhXyPHPs6del79g6CfzjvOXxpz8IxgF8Xb1ZvuwS15RnvdAZKIqOo2CiMu7lueM43VQc-pQu_fiTsKYBd62F-bnoebqVOOTJEb48Ph5LXHvv0OYXO7bMn_uOisO3YOssRR/s1600/V+Day+12.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq15EeQa0bSBJhXyPHPs6del79g6CfzjvOXxpz8IxgF8Xb1ZvuwS15RnvdAZKIqOo2CiMu7lueM43VQc-pQu_fiTsKYBd62F-bnoebqVOOTJEb48Ph5LXHvv0OYXO7bMn_uOisO3YOssRR/s640/V+Day+12.JPG" height="142" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Granitopia</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><i>Well, that's it ... </i></span></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<i><b><span style="font-size: large;">... The End ...</span></b></i></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">... or, if you like this is also "The End" ...</span></i></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/JSUIQgEVDM4?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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<i><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></i></div>
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<i><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></i></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i><b>P.S.</b></i></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i><b>If you've read this far</b></i></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i><b>I'd love to see some feedback below …</b></i></div>
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<i><b><br /></b></i></div>
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<i><b>Best wishes,</b></i></div>
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<i><b><br /></b></i></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i><b>Doug</b></i></div>
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Doughttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12724255802945843203noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2556783246652350110.post-13622181083084297042013-10-28T17:39:00.000+11:002014-07-09T18:50:33.883+10:00Day Eleven on the GR20 - Another Double: Refuge d'Usciolu to Refuge d'Ascinau to Village de Bavella<h2>
<i>An Outstanding Day in the Wilds of Corsica</i></h2>
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As per normal, we arose a little before first light to get an early start, but this time with a heightened sense of excitement. We'd set ourselves the goal of getting all the way to the Village de Bavella and were pretty psyched as the weather was looking really good.</div>
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All up the task we'd set ourselves looked like this:</div>
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<ul>
<li>Distance: 28 km</li>
<li>Total ascent: 1390 m</li>
<li>Total descent: 1920 m</li>
<li>Time: 12 hours</li>
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Those are pretty big number for a couple of old codgers so we wanted to get away early. As we were rising and heading out the door Thomas of the Irish Trio, with whom we'd caught back up on day nine, wished us good luck from his bunk - to the displeasure of a few folks who'd stayed up late the night before.<br />
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We had a quick breakfast along with a few other early starters then set off. Here's a snapshot of the section of map that covers the terrain, with our route delineated in black and red (coincidentally <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Essendon_Football_Club" target="_blank">my team</a>'s colours!) It's probably worth pointing out at this stage that Paddy Dillon's Cicerone guidebook describes the GR20 as travelling the way I have marked it, along the original route. Apparently the new "official" route, and the one preferred by most guidebook authors and GR20 commentators traverses valleys to the west and goes via Refuge Matalza. This became the standard route after the Refuge d' I Pedinieddi was destroyed by lightning, over concerns about the length of the stage from Usciolu to Asinau, and the fact that it went up and over the exposed peak of Monte Incudine. Anyway, here's our route ...</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYNPS1q_JjS9txAsQ6d0zG4GL3uqQFXVF6AFhHTCOTtUOgiC3WzrdBdKzsI8yKnM1Jo8lWd4bBd5-ZqME9OiOWcO-k_OwF_azX_vgdflCIxN87X8m-VYXdsZgtFNh83Og8dkgxhZZGvkck/s1600/A+Day+11.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYNPS1q_JjS9txAsQ6d0zG4GL3uqQFXVF6AFhHTCOTtUOgiC3WzrdBdKzsI8yKnM1Jo8lWd4bBd5-ZqME9OiOWcO-k_OwF_azX_vgdflCIxN87X8m-VYXdsZgtFNh83Og8dkgxhZZGvkck/s640/A+Day+11.JPG" height="640" width="364" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Refuge d'Usciolu to Village of Bavella</span></b></i></td></tr>
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It was just light enough to see without our headlamps when we set off up a short, steep climb to the crest of the ridge that runs southwest for quite a way ~ perhaps four kilometres or more. Just about as soon as we hit the crest we could make out the coast to the east, with the ranges in between still in shadow when I took this photo at 6:49 a.m. ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgajxqnPT9kGwkYxmQIGQoEcwDPcu-ls5C2ZftKjVFsxuphiJ8VnXeZIPHL6yvy01TnVTm8l0IHTP6uoC9Yx57W1o_toefq53p3pGw_LGJlXJrwGWiwwMKWYRH__D3IPfCwRotW9Zn8Mosj/s1600/B+Day+11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgajxqnPT9kGwkYxmQIGQoEcwDPcu-ls5C2ZftKjVFsxuphiJ8VnXeZIPHL6yvy01TnVTm8l0IHTP6uoC9Yx57W1o_toefq53p3pGw_LGJlXJrwGWiwwMKWYRH__D3IPfCwRotW9Zn8Mosj/s640/B+Day+11.jpg" height="396" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>Looking east towards the coast</i></b></span></td></tr>
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In another quarter of an hour the sun was bathing the granite outcrops of the ridge in a beautiful golden colour. In the photo below, taken at 7:07 a.m., the route will take us above and right of Di, who you can make out just about exactly in the middle of the photo ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjp4J2a4nXRaMp9qj6q0jFvxUEfDttPhRI-1KLR2gK1rhpZ_A6OICNCeS_4aL0HzszN6kSPBLYAm8yJXpaOejahzxrSUG4Gix_1R6tw3XNkVZwjjEpPZU43SZR45Teyb6Ql6bMTwFLlIUT/s1600/C+Day+11.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjp4J2a4nXRaMp9qj6q0jFvxUEfDttPhRI-1KLR2gK1rhpZ_A6OICNCeS_4aL0HzszN6kSPBLYAm8yJXpaOejahzxrSUG4Gix_1R6tw3XNkVZwjjEpPZU43SZR45Teyb6Ql6bMTwFLlIUT/s640/C+Day+11.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Rambling through low shrubbery and over granite slabs</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<div>
The start of the day's walk was sublime - just the sort of morning you dream about as a hiker. Clear and windless, with gentle ups and downs along a wide, gently ascending ridge. And it was warm - you might have noticed in the previous photo that Di is back in shorts and a t-shirt again.</div>
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We were constantly looking ahead, trying to pick which way the trail would take us: would it be around that next bump on the left, right or straight over the top? Sometimes we were right; sometimes not. In the next photo we are on the crest itself, and down to the left in the valley you can make out a couple of small villages. The track is just visible on the left edge of the photo ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-DNWr2pF-J6AhsNBCzaIg3NqF1PFZ4SC-FIgeNclhz7CpRUVgMinS8EfGrQdlBHDYW3K6S1-Qvfhi94kJevcq2_WjZVdbmAyLFfhn6uCEbMv9daZtlo8teZG_aLZInoqREJZQ5-XZIFh_/s1600/E+Day+11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-DNWr2pF-J6AhsNBCzaIg3NqF1PFZ4SC-FIgeNclhz7CpRUVgMinS8EfGrQdlBHDYW3K6S1-Qvfhi94kJevcq2_WjZVdbmAyLFfhn6uCEbMv9daZtlo8teZG_aLZInoqREJZQ5-XZIFh_/s640/E+Day+11.jpg" height="336" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Tracing the edge of sunshine</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<div>
In the next photo you will notice that Di has her poles in hand. We thought the trail was leading us around to the west - or right - of the next rocky bump on the ridge. It started that way but then ducked up through a little gap that you might be able to make out just around to the right ...</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL-vPzNEg-TbXRCQ9EgMr0_wcxYW5h1o7G6rfvljKUjwkkwgd5hKoJB5NcTMnA3HP_S0r5mXX8dmq-DYExL-DOfdLjTLRZm0tJoEdRQBNhvZZUTMKnfLrs5cAvXUvaZxVLXPIP7WZYOdIA/s1600/F+Day+11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL-vPzNEg-TbXRCQ9EgMr0_wcxYW5h1o7G6rfvljKUjwkkwgd5hKoJB5NcTMnA3HP_S0r5mXX8dmq-DYExL-DOfdLjTLRZm0tJoEdRQBNhvZZUTMKnfLrs5cAvXUvaZxVLXPIP7WZYOdIA/s640/F+Day+11.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Di picking her way through the boulders</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<div>
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<div>
Out the other side we emerged and then there was some gorgeous sidling in early morning sunshine ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMRB5ODEkAooXkQOEfSkKGYDSkBI7wrR3vZ59qpMvONDBgxRwhnaelxM_t8AD8s-54bJuymhYQ7cUCsh_UdrgGT6WZGE4Zr3Adj9Fr3-xPeysJTuV1ZOas8gN6iCmxlPZ-TSY8_quX26sm/s1600/G+Day+11.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMRB5ODEkAooXkQOEfSkKGYDSkBI7wrR3vZ59qpMvONDBgxRwhnaelxM_t8AD8s-54bJuymhYQ7cUCsh_UdrgGT6WZGE4Zr3Adj9Fr3-xPeysJTuV1ZOas8gN6iCmxlPZ-TSY8_quX26sm/s640/G+Day+11.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Sidling along just below the crest of the ridge</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<div>
It was now just about an hour after leaving the refuge. Di paused while I snuck ahead to get a view looking back along the ridge ...</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj-6xlLAxsWOIjyFElKTqzd4qsPFbvb8aOeytBnfw_feHrgv4rvPF1hJWBqtc_lY3gnJWQcXhUB3UgI_JzYeOXS_ifDJ5fREd30Z3dhEHysYS_kKbQiVXzJMm_9LYc5__84tVimp2E-I5u/s1600/H+Day+11.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj-6xlLAxsWOIjyFElKTqzd4qsPFbvb8aOeytBnfw_feHrgv4rvPF1hJWBqtc_lY3gnJWQcXhUB3UgI_JzYeOXS_ifDJ5fREd30Z3dhEHysYS_kKbQiVXzJMm_9LYc5__84tVimp2E-I5u/s640/H+Day+11.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Glorious early morning walking</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<div>
Almost before we knew it we had traversed the ridge, dropped down and found ourselves winding through these strange stumpy beech trees ...</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig00UcmlN0UQXo39zJarh_UHtgbMK_7y_V5e81o36Pzj5w-HVQAYumFQHFIRcEOfDNpnMwCW1dxOC6wEKo2PlZMGTVW7aXSMDXWZUDgy10EKGq2Y-42tw1aWzqN9TNzoSA4FRiBDNLSf80/s1600/I+Day+11.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig00UcmlN0UQXo39zJarh_UHtgbMK_7y_V5e81o36Pzj5w-HVQAYumFQHFIRcEOfDNpnMwCW1dxOC6wEKo2PlZMGTVW7aXSMDXWZUDgy10EKGq2Y-42tw1aWzqN9TNzoSA4FRiBDNLSf80/s640/I+Day+11.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>A small plateau with short, thick beech trees</i></b></span></td></tr>
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<div>
The track led us around to a small, open plateau. Just on an hour and a half after starting our walk for the day we were in what seemed almost like a totally different environment and an idyllic spot for a little cabin and a few sheep ...</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFkb5fNSDDy7Vsu6xpe7vPpk5SRtwubDDiWxwdJX7HcKobjtcAhzH6-z_mqVaRnrHamijXwab-ny2J6uv8gT_VC7ixhF1arrSRp6GE-UQOVtgdniIE58De53MDNNNnj6dGwQUuSAIXQ5c4/s1600/K+Day+11.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFkb5fNSDDy7Vsu6xpe7vPpk5SRtwubDDiWxwdJX7HcKobjtcAhzH6-z_mqVaRnrHamijXwab-ny2J6uv8gT_VC7ixhF1arrSRp6GE-UQOVtgdniIE58De53MDNNNnj6dGwQUuSAIXQ5c4/s640/K+Day+11.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>Just strolling along ...</i></b></span></td></tr>
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<div>
From this gorgeous little plateau the track dropped down an open hillside where we came across a relic from some previous passerby helping to mark the way ...<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLTyRhItZwHWlE8hHd82Z-bgqNoOoWRVQ29psPUKFyVS8zf8q2q2uiItd9H2e1dkoui4GEhNwup5uFMhDEOMVvZsf4OlOrUlemGKUfcbAeYk_HkXqkd4YsGgdxH10i-leqwuhhE6cL1UFw/s1600/L+Day+11.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLTyRhItZwHWlE8hHd82Z-bgqNoOoWRVQ29psPUKFyVS8zf8q2q2uiItd9H2e1dkoui4GEhNwup5uFMhDEOMVvZsf4OlOrUlemGKUfcbAeYk_HkXqkd4YsGgdxH10i-leqwuhhE6cL1UFw/s640/L+Day+11.JPG" height="486" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Boot Camp?</span></b></i></td></tr>
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By now it was just after 8:30 and the sun had climbed higher into the sky and the track led gently down through maquis vegetation to a shallow valley. Ahead you can see the slopes of Monte Incudine which, at 2134 metres will be our high point for the day ...<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZEcjhQuHt7SY4hDPOOH0Oug63scinGOME3mckjAK87aNZA1s2_ZswzroRCD5h1vKHvbqniFaIG9Ho-8xCvY-33We2-Uu2C1X-yfIoNNLahHlE2KgeBXSdidErJWUEV1_WdaB_1Bg2ebn0/s1600/M+Day+11.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZEcjhQuHt7SY4hDPOOH0Oug63scinGOME3mckjAK87aNZA1s2_ZswzroRCD5h1vKHvbqniFaIG9Ho-8xCvY-33We2-Uu2C1X-yfIoNNLahHlE2KgeBXSdidErJWUEV1_WdaB_1Bg2ebn0/s640/M+Day+11.JPG" height="360" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Descending from the Plateau du Cuscione</span></b></i></td></tr>
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It was lovely wending our way down through this gradually sloping valley but we did have to be careful to stay on the track as the maquis on either side was very close to the track in places, up to mid-thigh in height and very prickly! At the bottom of the valley we crossed a small creek that ran along the edge of the forested slopes leading upwards ...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO75E0whSeHX3qftTy71h_WRWU37slYTneSwM5YHUARcYkaP9_EbvA6csFXjW3Vat0PgT9IhGfBIcybem4ycDxs4azjt6b2mBaAeVL3Wys2bOu-oM5ZpENc1kRP7gkEQZZbcvYSMmWcqb6/s1600/N+Day+11.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO75E0whSeHX3qftTy71h_WRWU37slYTneSwM5YHUARcYkaP9_EbvA6csFXjW3Vat0PgT9IhGfBIcybem4ycDxs4azjt6b2mBaAeVL3Wys2bOu-oM5ZpENc1kRP7gkEQZZbcvYSMmWcqb6/s640/N+Day+11.JPG" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">At the bottom of the valley</span></b></i></td></tr>
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By this time we had been on the go for about two and a half hours so we decided to pause for a little snack in the sunshine just above the tree on the other side of the stream before starting the gradual ascent of Monte Incudine.<br />
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We were a bit surprised to surmount the hill and find we had another small vale to cross before we actually started the climb, but shouldn't have been as we did know that there was the site of an old refuge - which had been destroyed by lightning strike - to pass before we started climbing properly. (Incidentally, this is the one spot where wild camping is actually permitted along the GR20.) Another small stream wended its way through this vale providing moisture for small patches of flowering herbs ...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp9qZeCj19B53uTaiwNzXGeiY8o7HxfF0itG5vFruynFCxOQ8xEer3UrwJCVYKnRXL9vRQFtoGBsnwQslxKm-WWem0Xz1Z1vOsrQK2gBgLuTKviMY8f4BY2ONBTjBJIp3mMsUfeV2YhhOW/s1600/O+Day+11.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp9qZeCj19B53uTaiwNzXGeiY8o7HxfF0itG5vFruynFCxOQ8xEer3UrwJCVYKnRXL9vRQFtoGBsnwQslxKm-WWem0Xz1Z1vOsrQK2gBgLuTKviMY8f4BY2ONBTjBJIp3mMsUfeV2YhhOW/s640/O+Day+11.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy1gpOEOvlUUH71A2YnwQ4Luv5N9T0djBmU6vIJJFQXV11zMfkAir0vzhzc93kzW0kEv3x79TNF23RJ67c7g71DZ-56AH-mWbudwIQqSOsJPdzPcs-PnFkAKxcsnejnIk6ruMJ7R_6MOXE/s1600/P+Day+11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy1gpOEOvlUUH71A2YnwQ4Luv5N9T0djBmU6vIJJFQXV11zMfkAir0vzhzc93kzW0kEv3x79TNF23RJ67c7g71DZ-56AH-mWbudwIQqSOsJPdzPcs-PnFkAKxcsnejnIk6ruMJ7R_6MOXE/s640/P+Day+11.jpg" height="640" width="544" /></a></div>
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As we began our climb up out of the valley I paused to take this photo looking back the way we'd come, where the open rocky ridge line, forest and clear slopes had provided a great variety of walking for the first half of the morning's walk ...<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWwXeaXYywWK4tTwXsKbSEqjDntLU-Nce-7rUhs5Nis7foWB4ofS_xPKpRNotHB5emXw7c2hF0QnggtIZlgdmYmhlKye7YYfFXuWzT8fREi_meSr_NnvUw1R6iY2LTLVIq7sj-NeVbuY5G/s1600/Q+Day+11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWwXeaXYywWK4tTwXsKbSEqjDntLU-Nce-7rUhs5Nis7foWB4ofS_xPKpRNotHB5emXw7c2hF0QnggtIZlgdmYmhlKye7YYfFXuWzT8fREi_meSr_NnvUw1R6iY2LTLVIq7sj-NeVbuY5G/s640/Q+Day+11.jpg" height="274" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Wonderful varied walking</span></b></i></td></tr>
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It might now be worthwhile to provide a bit of map detail to illustrate the landscape and home in on our whereabouts at this point of the day's walk (look for the yellow circle near the centre of the map) ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUnAJp8rgVWvoogRGw1L8wffav8P3cD00jPMYr5xtEqbV4i1Kqi-C1F0HwmJ5zO7fbJBkOETVPt1XZRw1PadUF2oz1I0ln-DfOpc58D0H5O4-nIaI763Q6bL-Lg0OlLUh_uc07Fh-I4I7T/s1600/Q2B+Day+11.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUnAJp8rgVWvoogRGw1L8wffav8P3cD00jPMYr5xtEqbV4i1Kqi-C1F0HwmJ5zO7fbJBkOETVPt1XZRw1PadUF2oz1I0ln-DfOpc58D0H5O4-nIaI763Q6bL-Lg0OlLUh_uc07Fh-I4I7T/s1600/Q2B+Day+11.JPG" height="268" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">Mid-morning Day 11</span></i></b></td></tr>
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I'm not sure but I think the next photo is looking up towards the Crête de la Foce Aperta, which we will eventually join towards its upper end ...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifT3j_tNjDxAlO5muOMuWrbma4B5u29ln6_3SSwS1iL8ohszYECd_5lnUeUnfwn0htz0gw6x4w366xjXYIqOre75efm7tkXaFEOic7M-0yA7NgkUVfN3NpR8YHLCzLxnjoJjK5Ux2GaTdl/s1600/R+Day+11.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifT3j_tNjDxAlO5muOMuWrbma4B5u29ln6_3SSwS1iL8ohszYECd_5lnUeUnfwn0htz0gw6x4w366xjXYIqOre75efm7tkXaFEOic7M-0yA7NgkUVfN3NpR8YHLCzLxnjoJjK5Ux2GaTdl/s640/R+Day+11.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Back up into the alpine region</span></b></i></td></tr>
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... and now we are nearing the summit of Monte Incudine ...<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAUhzrzU0B6kcunTcVqaqj0PyuDwscv15iDdxlrrnrDYmiNKr4sATkstRPRhR550SKF3fadnmTJeSaoaTWhYtxLaqvdaRDGwP4rqXIqWqtIJNS77L3iXH_2iLRFv99Pr4VnwNe7RuNx8iA/s1600/S+Day+11.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAUhzrzU0B6kcunTcVqaqj0PyuDwscv15iDdxlrrnrDYmiNKr4sATkstRPRhR550SKF3fadnmTJeSaoaTWhYtxLaqvdaRDGwP4rqXIqWqtIJNS77L3iXH_2iLRFv99Pr4VnwNe7RuNx8iA/s640/S+Day+11.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">The summit of Monte Incudine beckons</span></b></i></td></tr>
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This is actually the same photo sliced thinly for a more delicate flavour ...<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBP0bnaTQEJH1cpv6xi0EDFj3qz49rR9b2zfojM2pZ4-ijbvRGWjjGIr1ucou7p0eIiHbI9gi8HX_MtW8P6v7MObnx17Zpy6rqo_hYSyMqkzIGlO8KnI6RTZVp793L14fqQUbq2cDGtxxx/s1600/S1+DAY+11.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBP0bnaTQEJH1cpv6xi0EDFj3qz49rR9b2zfojM2pZ4-ijbvRGWjjGIr1ucou7p0eIiHbI9gi8HX_MtW8P6v7MObnx17Zpy6rqo_hYSyMqkzIGlO8KnI6RTZVp793L14fqQUbq2cDGtxxx/s640/S1+DAY+11.JPG" height="136" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Having your cake and eating it too ...</span></b></i></td></tr>
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We paused for the obligatory summit photo, knowing that we'd knocked over most of the ascending required for the day. (I was reluctant to include this photo as it is all too revealing about how much I'd been indulging in the filthy joys of <a href="http://www.regions-of-france.com/regions/brittany/food-gastronomy/kouign-amann/" target="_blank">Kouign Amann</a> while in belle Bretagne, and the general slothfulness associated with our tour to <a href="http://ofcockatoosandkangaroos.blogspot.com.au/2013_06_01_archive.html" target="_blank">FNQ</a>. Time to start getting fit again ...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguBQ-BTca-FWtCXHOiZTZHV6mA7rg2xGqeuf124ENxAiDXhOypomJnIJ3lw95FwEfCaqqc_4hdLeWkZR4be2s1kALCO0kQ8hPy3orDdr8I1SeudazwobzRKGtp0mHyrqJEfszTduwGMzVu/s1600/U+Day+11.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguBQ-BTca-FWtCXHOiZTZHV6mA7rg2xGqeuf124ENxAiDXhOypomJnIJ3lw95FwEfCaqqc_4hdLeWkZR4be2s1kALCO0kQ8hPy3orDdr8I1SeudazwobzRKGtp0mHyrqJEfszTduwGMzVu/s640/U+Day+11.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Padded Grandpa and Beaming Grannie</span></b></i></td></tr>
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Between us and the east coast were some rugged little ranges, slightly obscured by mist ...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGVrL2eWFdqg8yncBiM8iAwUIYW5a_iCKZ-X3L5kA2q1I5EsERdq4ltIeLZVPzsKOn7NxcrpxEyTSwse6jfg7TPYO1G6Nzf8GbSQAmf2uP2UUdCDIhCd_PXVfgsyZVzY05iy0C3ymVa6l1/s1600/W+Day+11.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGVrL2eWFdqg8yncBiM8iAwUIYW5a_iCKZ-X3L5kA2q1I5EsERdq4ltIeLZVPzsKOn7NxcrpxEyTSwse6jfg7TPYO1G6Nzf8GbSQAmf2uP2UUdCDIhCd_PXVfgsyZVzY05iy0C3ymVa6l1/s640/W+Day+11.JPG" height="390" width="640" /></a></div>
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... which blew away as we sidled around towards the descent off the peak. The next photo was taken just above the start of a long slabby traverse that went farther left than we imagined it needed to, but again this can be seen in the map detail above. We had thought that the beauty of the GR20 might abate somewhat as we hiked further south but we were delighted to find it continued to maintain its quality through this day and indeed, as the next post will show, right to the very end.<br />
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It's just 600 metres down to Refuge d'Asinau but this happens pretty quickly as it is one of the steeper descents on the route. We paused at the refuge where the guardian was rather too preoccupied entertaining friends on his back verandah to pay much attention to hikers! It would have been good to enjoy a cool drink, but thankfully we'd acquired the necessaries at Usciolu to put together lunch, which we enjoyed on the front verandah.<br />
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After about forty minutes break we shouldered our packs and set off for the second stage of the day. This view back just after we set out again shows the position of Refuge d'Asinau up on the hillside just above the tree line ...<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">Refuge d'Asinau</span></i></b></td></tr>
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There are two routes for the next stage through to the Col de Bavella and the village just down the other side. The main route of the GR20 is meant to take 4 3/4 hours and have 380 metres of ascent and 695 metres of descent. The high level route - which I was attracted to - is actually half an hour quicker but has an additional 170 metres of ascent and descent. However Di had been adamant that if we were to run stages 13 and 14 together she'd only do it if we took the longer but easier low-level route. Probably a good idea because both of us had knees that were feeling a little creaky after the steep descent off Monte Incudine. (If we ever go back to do some more hiking in Corsica we'll have to make a point of getting up on the crest of the <a href="http://www.summitpost.org/le-tour-des-aiguilles-de-bavella/839117" target="_blank">Aigulles de Bavella and the Punta di u Pargulu</a> as the views are meant to be stunning.)<br />
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After a short traverse and then a descent of 100 metres the track traverses for about three kilometres through lovely laricio pine forest like this ...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6rnrVLtxpHn058ucmhyz_I3jFas3tUcl531XLcxcQZgzf79aRLqXB-9Rr8lISKTrz6v_30mmSYNe7eYlDtZFc64n5EVGFTaj3iiKqVGtjTE0k2VkUR6TNYYjyohumOCTtd5AVHAQCjTiJ/s1600/Z+Day+11.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6rnrVLtxpHn058ucmhyz_I3jFas3tUcl531XLcxcQZgzf79aRLqXB-9Rr8lISKTrz6v_30mmSYNe7eYlDtZFc64n5EVGFTaj3iiKqVGtjTE0k2VkUR6TNYYjyohumOCTtd5AVHAQCjTiJ/s640/Z+Day+11.JPG" height="442" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Pine forest between Ascinau and Bavella</span></b></i></td></tr>
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... before descending another 400 metres or so. Then, after traversing around the toe of the Crête du Pargulu, a long sidle is made into a deep re-entrant to get around the Ruissseau de Caracatu. The views were quite limited at this stage but eventually after traversing some wonderful forest, things started to open out again and the road leading up to Col de Bavella came into view across the way, along with peaks that we would walk through the next day ...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj64qvuSSNv0tQpCL1EoKGivcHYX9Msa6Y2Lz1Za0NjPz2qq7HK5HNweyyBw8Lbom2dneldIktRF3MHn6dt4HdLbD5l5PoAWvJyotUnoyaua6uD5mWFWkfcZ9Qh4zk7Z-nnlHFq6v_wsOb7/s1600/ZZ+Day+11.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj64qvuSSNv0tQpCL1EoKGivcHYX9Msa6Y2Lz1Za0NjPz2qq7HK5HNweyyBw8Lbom2dneldIktRF3MHn6dt4HdLbD5l5PoAWvJyotUnoyaua6uD5mWFWkfcZ9Qh4zk7Z-nnlHFq6v_wsOb7/s640/ZZ+Day+11.JPG" height="488" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">The road to Col de Bavella can be seen on the slopes opposite</span></b></i></td></tr>
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Paradoxically we descended a little more when we thought we'd really like to start climbing up towards the col ...<br />
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By this time the Aiguilles de Bavella had started to dominate the landscape ...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRAftlz7ZU3xkccbtWosAhIiDejG9ciJCLNejgn_wdomu-M9G8nHcZ1uaQgtBzphvwRjHIEcD8Jd3y93JLVn68u3futSOa7sy4nbT2lpEJ8kcXf7Xd4H12wQWw-JoLjXIgCjtxwUTd_Ly0/s1600/ZZZZ+Day+11.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRAftlz7ZU3xkccbtWosAhIiDejG9ciJCLNejgn_wdomu-M9G8nHcZ1uaQgtBzphvwRjHIEcD8Jd3y93JLVn68u3futSOa7sy4nbT2lpEJ8kcXf7Xd4H12wQWw-JoLjXIgCjtxwUTd_Ly0/s640/ZZZZ+Day+11.JPG" height="640" width="626" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Aiguilles de Bavella</span></b></i></td></tr>
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It dawned on us that we still had some way to go and Di was starting to slow up a bit so she sat down for a little rest ...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix3zsZ69yRaZmR8ke7mtBI47HjCXpWWquOFi-z61nNKskeylmtIQB3d_GSe-xb4pnFMYyyX1mLChSAhzEUFb5Mb5FzCFQaxPgdpVlu1yucSgL0CLfMlDCU313m1eF_j_n8r8cTYpFyNIju/s1600/ZZZZZ+Day+11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix3zsZ69yRaZmR8ke7mtBI47HjCXpWWquOFi-z61nNKskeylmtIQB3d_GSe-xb4pnFMYyyX1mLChSAhzEUFb5Mb5FzCFQaxPgdpVlu1yucSgL0CLfMlDCU313m1eF_j_n8r8cTYpFyNIju/s640/ZZZZZ+Day+11.jpg" height="310" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">How much farther, Dad?</span></b></i></td></tr>
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Eventually we got around the toe of the ridge and found ourselves ascending through some more lovely forest towards the Col de Bavella where we came across evidence of the island's rich history of animal husbandry in the mountains in the form of a stone wall ...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj07CrrC1pXbn1ChxZuV6v2i-DEJZt6B6qm6P5JFY9v6_nn10dvjJMjsys2-CzcxrryKfY00-WGgYilUJCIM84u2vrCI4ox1fGiy6_qVdeR7lT5I8Hle5K0RuP3Hg9jyqadwJ76lb2UTjSZ/s1600/ZZZZZZ+Day+11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj07CrrC1pXbn1ChxZuV6v2i-DEJZt6B6qm6P5JFY9v6_nn10dvjJMjsys2-CzcxrryKfY00-WGgYilUJCIM84u2vrCI4ox1fGiy6_qVdeR7lT5I8Hle5K0RuP3Hg9jyqadwJ76lb2UTjSZ/s640/ZZZZZZ+Day+11.jpg" height="456" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Nearing the Col de Bavella</span></b></i></td></tr>
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Have you missed my digressions in the last few posts? Well, in honour of the extraordinary beauty of Col de Bavella it's time I returned to my normal habit of rambling off ...<br />
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... before we'd left Tasmania for our trip to Corsica for the GR20 our friends Alan and Penney had returned from there and the Land Of The Pom. While in the latter Alan obtained a copy of "<i><b>Edward Lear in Corsica: Journal of a Landscape Painte</b></i>r" (published in this edition in 1966; Price 50s net - much dearer now, no doubt!) and generously lent it to me. It was a terrific opportunity to get a sense of Corsica in 1851 when Lear was there as ... well, a tourist, really. As one would expect after being there, he has marvellous things to say about the landscape, including this about a couple of the vistas he enjoyed in Bavella ...<br />
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<i style="font-weight: bold;">"</i>...<i style="font-weight: bold;"> one a narrow gorge with a perspective of spires, leading, as it were, into the very inmost heart of the mountain; another of bold crags, dark against the sunset sky, and rising out of the most profuse vegetation - both scenes grand beyond expression in words. Nor, indeed, except by very careful study, could many of the greatest and wildest beauties of this forest be represented in a sketch, and to attempt to do so seems like endeavouring in one day to make satisfactory notes from the contents of a whole library, full of all sorts of literature".</i></div>
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Magnificent, and much better said than I could do. This is one place we certainly will visit for longer if we make it back to Corsica for some of the many other walks there are to do.</div>
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By half past four we were at the Col de Bavella, where stands a huge statue of the Virgin, an equally huge cross and some beautiful, gnarly old pines ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhxAdbnnyPPQpvNwT3OvBNzLuIP_WE2twCEopj8sFlrdbKwFd6XnfZ9SO24S7kIr32wtZvZ-XScoyN3nADxmtCHaoNnyiXnB6P-2yql1PUdwGBNvnGEVnNW_RTro_InMjBv9Bwh7jbx2OP/s1600/ZZZZZZZ+Day+11.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhxAdbnnyPPQpvNwT3OvBNzLuIP_WE2twCEopj8sFlrdbKwFd6XnfZ9SO24S7kIr32wtZvZ-XScoyN3nADxmtCHaoNnyiXnB6P-2yql1PUdwGBNvnGEVnNW_RTro_InMjBv9Bwh7jbx2OP/s640/ZZZZZZZ+Day+11.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Col de Bavella</span></b></i></td></tr>
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... and shortly after that we were at our resting place for the night the <a href="http://www.auberge-bavella.com/" target="_blank">Auberge de Col de Bavella</a> ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjebqnfHD1Ry2msL8udLhzZRcZf-w4hlKqflLIz7OnZagvGeKpmbbJiWyzzmADka0BM3M5CMU3QX7IYMbuWBkxLvsbozuTj5J5J2vdGLAMSv4y5V_QwzghhN2CJysKbz0AeVZCIou32JXcu/s1600/ZZZZZZZZ+Day+11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjebqnfHD1Ry2msL8udLhzZRcZf-w4hlKqflLIz7OnZagvGeKpmbbJiWyzzmADka0BM3M5CMU3QX7IYMbuWBkxLvsbozuTj5J5J2vdGLAMSv4y5V_QwzghhN2CJysKbz0AeVZCIou32JXcu/s640/ZZZZZZZZ+Day+11.jpg" height="320" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">We made it!</span></b></i></td></tr>
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It looks like the the terrace is deserted, which it was when I took the photo the next morning. It was actually packed when we arrived but we were so intent on settling into the gîte, having a hot shower and getting something to eat that I neglected to take a photo at that time.<br />
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And so ends the second last day of our traverse of the GR20 in Corsica ...</div>
Doughttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12724255802945843203noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2556783246652350110.post-75156011791662633322013-10-25T11:30:00.003+11:002013-10-25T14:35:26.142+11:00Day Ten on the GR20 - Refuge di Verdi to Refuge d'Usciolu<h2>
<i>A Beautiful Day of Open Ridge Walking</i></h2>
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Apart from a climb up through forest at the start of the day and then a short section through beech forest around the Bocca Lavaro, all of Stage 12 is on ridges and open mountain slopes. There are lots of great views west and south to more mountains, down into long valley strewn with villages below on right and glimpses of the sea to the east. Most of the walking is quite easy but there is a bit of rock scrambling along the narrow rocky crest around 2000 metres near the top of Punta Cappella.</div>
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Here are the statistics of today's hike:</div>
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<ul>
<li>Distance: 16 km</li>
<li>Total ascent: 1290 m</li>
<li>Total descent: 830 m</li>
<li>Time: 7 1/4 hours</li>
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And this is what the route looks like on the map:</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9Pbxj7hwJUkZfrQxGEwUt0VAjobyihEXVTw1lHHzpXkRDs5BNSRLgKROgPQjNnAnrAv5h4eYnVM4QHQTmMxVEadJxXucKh0kgrIolyfXM1eVaKMThJfZTxzniy5uF29N8AAXXg0WTA6SZ/s1600/A+Day+10+Map.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9Pbxj7hwJUkZfrQxGEwUt0VAjobyihEXVTw1lHHzpXkRDs5BNSRLgKROgPQjNnAnrAv5h4eYnVM4QHQTmMxVEadJxXucKh0kgrIolyfXM1eVaKMThJfZTxzniy5uF29N8AAXXg0WTA6SZ/s640/A+Day+10+Map.JPG" width="338" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Refuge di Verdi - Refuge d'Usciolu</span></b></i></td></tr>
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You can also get a pretty good idea of the largely open nature of the terrain from this perspective view of the route that I plotted in on Google Earth ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfn6NNoqDXsyTrLFZvDxcsMsAug-5qaxWbYHHNePf_WBuWpQQH0yldY7srZ4PCNZ9K5z1ANtphQMoxfESmag-vV_VIMdc3PjhaevJNV_9HNBfE-dFMWYgerHRBtTxgd1cx5YxX-3cxSIna/s1600/B+Verdi+-+Usciolu.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="446" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfn6NNoqDXsyTrLFZvDxcsMsAug-5qaxWbYHHNePf_WBuWpQQH0yldY7srZ4PCNZ9K5z1ANtphQMoxfESmag-vV_VIMdc3PjhaevJNV_9HNBfE-dFMWYgerHRBtTxgd1cx5YxX-3cxSIna/s640/B+Verdi+-+Usciolu.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Up from the forest and out to open ridges</span></b></i></td></tr>
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The early part of the route alternates between gentle and more steep climbing. We had a bit of a surprise when we reached a little saddle in the forest, about a quarter of an hour after leaving Refuge di Verdi. There were three pack animals standing quietly, seemingly waiting for their lord and master to return from somewhere ...</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwUBSm14KzR6UF77s27PX-tg-xmWtG7JtSL4NFCyEHC54exbW3kkYI064DVYJVA8fiI5iO3nrP7rvuz20bYKGwi7kKSKflFEM6dyDZtgd0NtgUe3MZDbtQmHFWt237n4eindGQkVqAhXgp/s1600/C+Donkeys.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwUBSm14KzR6UF77s27PX-tg-xmWtG7JtSL4NFCyEHC54exbW3kkYI064DVYJVA8fiI5iO3nrP7rvuz20bYKGwi7kKSKflFEM6dyDZtgd0NtgUe3MZDbtQmHFWt237n4eindGQkVqAhXgp/s640/C+Donkeys.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Waiting for Godot???</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<div>
From there, we enjoyed pleasant and gentle ascending and traversing through a mixture of pine and beech forest. Steeper open slopes brought us to the Bocca d'Oru at 1840 metres ...</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJp-50K3-M7KFm9-KbMAiFO93vmfEz-ZX6Int75wY4PLFQG_jP1J-cxS3JH7zeFoGoSeMEac_NMrelaVadNFwI7P64aPLgyvswkicl0zbl2ki85W1aMpK1vgEeA7U_ecFPYeZOI93sxhom/s1600/D+Bocca+d'Oru.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJp-50K3-M7KFm9-KbMAiFO93vmfEz-ZX6Int75wY4PLFQG_jP1J-cxS3JH7zeFoGoSeMEac_NMrelaVadNFwI7P64aPLgyvswkicl0zbl2ki85W1aMpK1vgEeA7U_ecFPYeZOI93sxhom/s640/D+Bocca+d'Oru.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Our first milestone for the day: Bocca d'Oru</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<div>
It was great to realise that we'd already done almost half of the total ascent for the day. It was also exciting to reach the bocca because we suddenly found ourselves looking for the first time down towards the east coast of Corsica. The next photo isn't anything wonderful but I took it and have included it here because if you look closely you can make out a lagoon on the coastline ...</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJVeELlE1bevNwif8FdlmT3jF_rWjVZfSwSrgLZ9JlY0YKTBAKaA41H4_RROD7bjbsNi93lmD-Sf3ny0590TEKIdUqxhXUXHS2j2dOPMpqKfqO3X72NGqrKXIZborf0QpgjQYSxuEYH0FC/s1600/Di+Sea+below.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJVeELlE1bevNwif8FdlmT3jF_rWjVZfSwSrgLZ9JlY0YKTBAKaA41H4_RROD7bjbsNi93lmD-Sf3ny0590TEKIdUqxhXUXHS2j2dOPMpqKfqO3X72NGqrKXIZborf0QpgjQYSxuEYH0FC/s640/Di+Sea+below.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>I see the sea!</i></b></span></td></tr>
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<div>
We paused there for a few moments, enjoying vistas both to the east and west and I took a couple of photos to make up this panorama of the view back towards the Bocca de Verdi ...</div>
<div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5ptvaubyPv3GWhgYKrN1GXIow1i1XpDR2Ep_FMQ6_gpI6hK1NLRKQNRp9pZujLzdPlN6YcGmBTQNL6mPmKgGMRKRTyV5isSY5-iltB001bwwuZffd-4EwuIOuAawaaTQHadkVto9meMau/s1600/E+Day+10+pano1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="318" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5ptvaubyPv3GWhgYKrN1GXIow1i1XpDR2Ep_FMQ6_gpI6hK1NLRKQNRp9pZujLzdPlN6YcGmBTQNL6mPmKgGMRKRTyV5isSY5-iltB001bwwuZffd-4EwuIOuAawaaTQHadkVto9meMau/s640/E+Day+10+pano1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">Looking northwest towards Col de Verdi</span></i></b></td></tr>
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<div>
From the bocca a pleasant track traverses gentle rolling terrain across the plateau towards Refuge de Prati ...</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixyjEvi-U4r3I-KTv7vYERf0o8TPUkKJ8NnsvDBluhmykB5R0KmgyjBrah2_Vw_pXPpPqnXHVpwjOPjjXf9bIGKSecfDPn2Hm7IVnO0Pf-uf9Z-_z8f2QnrKPU9_Mhi7g4sm39A3whTFtn/s1600/F+Trail+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixyjEvi-U4r3I-KTv7vYERf0o8TPUkKJ8NnsvDBluhmykB5R0KmgyjBrah2_Vw_pXPpPqnXHVpwjOPjjXf9bIGKSecfDPn2Hm7IVnO0Pf-uf9Z-_z8f2QnrKPU9_Mhi7g4sm39A3whTFtn/s640/F+Trail+1.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Lovely walking above 1800 metres in early morning light</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<div>
Great open views toward the Punta Cappella, the high point of the day's walk, lead you on for about a kilometre ...</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmOBGHzpgo9ziS73aoPa_H-W-5fVTwFo3NU4hs5nnrxHA52l3cFJqSiTUjkmjF61nsjlfWs9Jxqg8rRWQpAkfsvQQsKrDLqwJ_l2DkVnACJtCte0To4kx57AjZonr3kXbcNAWLeAXqYFlP/s1600/G+Trail+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmOBGHzpgo9ziS73aoPa_H-W-5fVTwFo3NU4hs5nnrxHA52l3cFJqSiTUjkmjF61nsjlfWs9Jxqg8rRWQpAkfsvQQsKrDLqwJ_l2DkVnACJtCte0To4kx57AjZonr3kXbcNAWLeAXqYFlP/s640/G+Trail+2.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>Views towards Punta Cappella</i></b></span></td></tr>
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<div>
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<div>
... before the Refuge de Prati appears, nestled into a saddle at 1820 metres ...</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP1x4Mgrrhxve_KiiPgSuxk9jLKhnTzV0xINIZQU_0CFyRqFYiBQkTobYEvwYbhDSg3bMZDbyhcABIm7MqOqVxYCRc548EnfP5mWUSm1kSmdG2XOufJz7w4Vnra7CwIHc5KBLvcQ18HG73/s1600/H+Trail+3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP1x4Mgrrhxve_KiiPgSuxk9jLKhnTzV0xINIZQU_0CFyRqFYiBQkTobYEvwYbhDSg3bMZDbyhcABIm7MqOqVxYCRc548EnfP5mWUSm1kSmdG2XOufJz7w4Vnra7CwIHc5KBLvcQ18HG73/s640/H+Trail+3.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">Punta Cappella and Refuge de Prati</span></i></b></td></tr>
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<div>
(If you expand the photo you can just make out the track at the right of the photo leading up toward the the open ridge.)</div>
<div>
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<div>
Refuge de Prati was situated in quite an idyllic spot, with expansive views down towards the east and sheltered from the main brunt of the prevailing westerlies. This would make a wonderful place to relax on a sunny afternoon if one structured the traverse allow for that. There was a bit of pasture for livestock and even a couple of shelters for them to get in out of the weather. For walkers coming up on the access path from the valley to the east, signposts show the way back to Bocca di Verdi and on to Bocca di Laparo ...</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIbZOIM8nM5lNE9hyL-t1UeOVB3nScrNmnzII9anzI_85s2f-oc6FQxUec0dZedoGCiokBowNa_DplLmAd3OqJsuuXW4RLPI3nwCpPiSY2cpw1Ah9jOhXCnFHqkfOKeWtGp4GRXBrSvhcZ/s1600/I+Refuge+Prati+sign.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIbZOIM8nM5lNE9hyL-t1UeOVB3nScrNmnzII9anzI_85s2f-oc6FQxUec0dZedoGCiokBowNa_DplLmAd3OqJsuuXW4RLPI3nwCpPiSY2cpw1Ah9jOhXCnFHqkfOKeWtGp4GRXBrSvhcZ/s640/I+Refuge+Prati+sign.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Which way?</span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
A memorial plaque marks the significance of this spot for resistance fighters when arms were parachuted in to them ...</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnn_6lxjKsJIbDJtCy_m7GhyphenhyphenPgUj2tt39xAKnH5UbDgwYThTIc9ZEBJ6ZKSulVjzRO1rA5hK9lgx2Mcp6G63mzyk-cQ96CzRC_4gbPtE6_COw8v469syf9aDUCNjIY8vKLg9-yWbC5oRwO/s1600/J+Parachutist+memorial.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="582" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnn_6lxjKsJIbDJtCy_m7GhyphenhyphenPgUj2tt39xAKnH5UbDgwYThTIc9ZEBJ6ZKSulVjzRO1rA5hK9lgx2Mcp6G63mzyk-cQ96CzRC_4gbPtE6_COw8v469syf9aDUCNjIY8vKLg9-yWbC5oRwO/s640/J+Parachutist+memorial.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Memorial plaque</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<div>
We enjoyed some nice atmospheric walking with mist coming and going as we traversed rocky slopes towards a craggy ridge, quite similar - but at a higher altitude - to some of the walking we've done in Tamania ...</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigYh_hKVZniL-JsZDLTcDedPV20JMztXaZWiaJdiaaVp62D3tqyEUh8NEcFXS7Od6_LNBdjkeqxKjEfsLglwx5ATO3uyuhyhNMFye4TW1mWcKxiy8ezB8EeYgV6qA4qAv3sPzgbqt1uHBn/s1600/K+Craggy+ridge+&+mist.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigYh_hKVZniL-JsZDLTcDedPV20JMztXaZWiaJdiaaVp62D3tqyEUh8NEcFXS7Od6_LNBdjkeqxKjEfsLglwx5ATO3uyuhyhNMFye4TW1mWcKxiy8ezB8EeYgV6qA4qAv3sPzgbqt1uHBn/s640/K+Craggy+ridge+&+mist.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">This could almost be Tasmania!</span></i></b></td></tr>
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<div>
There were lots of boulders strewn about and from time to time big gaps in the mist would open to reveal patches of glorious blue sky ...</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHFd0F9wIlY2lBi__YsXl5pJaIKiSxP96cSR3fp_LwshN_chS4MSDYxUWLPxvLxWNBHUsoEtL81YUHAFRIi7lo8HltyAQ32tet8UuNXjlabf0rLAz9Ruy0leMzBF6Zg24gcEKd94nBcYC4/s1600/L+Bouldery+saddle.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHFd0F9wIlY2lBi__YsXl5pJaIKiSxP96cSR3fp_LwshN_chS4MSDYxUWLPxvLxWNBHUsoEtL81YUHAFRIi7lo8HltyAQ32tet8UuNXjlabf0rLAz9Ruy0leMzBF6Zg24gcEKd94nBcYC4/s640/L+Bouldery+saddle.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Granite boulders litter the plateau</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<div>
One of the really lovely aspects of this day's walk is the fact that your attention is continually drawn down past outcrops of rock to views of numerous small towns in the valley below and mountains in the distance ...</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm2KiL0r5DRILHHWEp7RK3iqv0lEemGXc40_7UthyphenhyphenX9apoMqDL6lTab_2h1Kd9aQA8fYRjpwHLfBXaR6lopslCP7NqjZmttCIjdaxAuNb_JkaZhuoFZqfnrvptXQw_ejqzAdlk6KQZoawP/s1600/M+Crag+&+town.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm2KiL0r5DRILHHWEp7RK3iqv0lEemGXc40_7UthyphenhyphenX9apoMqDL6lTab_2h1Kd9aQA8fYRjpwHLfBXaR6lopslCP7NqjZmttCIjdaxAuNb_JkaZhuoFZqfnrvptXQw_ejqzAdlk6KQZoawP/s640/M+Crag+&+town.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Just another craggy outcrop ...</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<div>
At another point a narrow ridge of small but impressive spires ascends from the valley ...</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP3LRUn3PbGU-FdheHmx-StGOiS-SYpkdz2_utBZyjivIBfOFxWjteJzX5FM6tHJKg2iG4TBMhVz6SGqXzH931mG5QHxUZ0Q8Xf9lzGk4SkvFSLLknMOcQGiJswfGVcqufEiFy3JL5i8Uk/s1600/M+Are%CC%82te+&+town.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP3LRUn3PbGU-FdheHmx-StGOiS-SYpkdz2_utBZyjivIBfOFxWjteJzX5FM6tHJKg2iG4TBMhVz6SGqXzH931mG5QHxUZ0Q8Xf9lzGk4SkvFSLLknMOcQGiJswfGVcqufEiFy3JL5i8Uk/s640/M+Are%CC%82te+&+town.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Granite spires look down on a town in the valley</span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
For some reason - perhaps because it got cool and windy up high - I don't have any photos of us traversing the rocky crest up to <a href="http://www.summitpost.org/punta-della-cappella/824906">Punta Cappella</a> (2041m) or the steep slabs descending the other side, or the bouldery slopes that sidle around the Punta di Campitello (1937m) or the climb up and over the lesser Punta di Latoncello (1722m). Hmm. Terribly remiss of me. The next photo shows us entering the lovely patch of beech forest around the Bocca di Rapari ...</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBnaaE-jm1Wo5Ibs_a5GW_Pn0cpSWYrwtnfm299trBZEs5tMYKproU13eKC7qXVWJdQvkYkfUWrwBTFTTYmvHfaGiQJhoMKX0BvTP5YNK-21agWHIUGl1zSNvhd98HfZ_gGbLWCqGTMaNT/s1600/N+Path+into+beech.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBnaaE-jm1Wo5Ibs_a5GW_Pn0cpSWYrwtnfm299trBZEs5tMYKproU13eKC7qXVWJdQvkYkfUWrwBTFTTYmvHfaGiQJhoMKX0BvTP5YNK-21agWHIUGl1zSNvhd98HfZ_gGbLWCqGTMaNT/s640/N+Path+into+beech.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">A lovely path leads into beech forest</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<div>
We reached the bocca itself ... </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKkue3pgGfnFO_EIl72cEhrdmTsMG72q98_0TMpW9VyOVbghgYnU8uZICWq7KnUixryl1jIH7s1nuWVDwyYBomveMVtCAITtUnrU-lWpv6IE7hGhmWNSwqOgwepDBEM-Ai7xMndcAkFpPh/s1600/O+Bocca+Laparo.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKkue3pgGfnFO_EIl72cEhrdmTsMG72q98_0TMpW9VyOVbghgYnU8uZICWq7KnUixryl1jIH7s1nuWVDwyYBomveMVtCAITtUnrU-lWpv6IE7hGhmWNSwqOgwepDBEM-Ai7xMndcAkFpPh/s640/O+Bocca+Laparo.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Bocca Laparo</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<div>
... where we paused for a snack amongst the large granite boulders before continuing our walk. </div>
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<div>
A gradual climb out of the forest and then more steeply up a rocky and more exposed ridge led us to and over Punta Bianca (1954 m) and then around the shoulder of Monte Fumicula (1981 m) before descending a couple hundred metres to Refuge d'Usciolu ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsIz8_SaoZrsvE2u2WZDaJUZjMdHLWNqYFRj9S1tpOb0OIEZDiO2eTiUdHzpUbKAuuNy6aTcDKnRTXf1jpOqSE55-vPhHMpBr1WbLr0lcwkZhtIp5NEymc2lpHUq2jdex8K0WcPrAA-s3p/s1600/Q+Refuge+Usciolu.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsIz8_SaoZrsvE2u2WZDaJUZjMdHLWNqYFRj9S1tpOb0OIEZDiO2eTiUdHzpUbKAuuNy6aTcDKnRTXf1jpOqSE55-vPhHMpBr1WbLr0lcwkZhtIp5NEymc2lpHUq2jdex8K0WcPrAA-s3p/s640/Q+Refuge+Usciolu.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">For what it matters: Refuge d'Usciolu is 1750 metres above sea level, <u>not</u> 1810 metres!</span></b></i></td></tr>
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The guardian's quarters and a little shop that sold lots of great food (including, surprisingly, very good and quite fresh bread) is at a slight remove from the refuge ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9truI3UN2nIMX_Y_vpcwLlXtVV7z_Xx_g72kSmOTYYgQUZyHZMFiF1xPNhpwEK7SmIKqUiaMvoU3elbPh7brcHbSXLuQoCNZMyo1BKmLDI3bdu35Gc4u1bad-iPC0BrYGo7DzBAEj8HJu/s1600/R+Shop+&+guardian's+quarters.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9truI3UN2nIMX_Y_vpcwLlXtVV7z_Xx_g72kSmOTYYgQUZyHZMFiF1xPNhpwEK7SmIKqUiaMvoU3elbPh7brcHbSXLuQoCNZMyo1BKmLDI3bdu35Gc4u1bad-iPC0BrYGo7DzBAEj8HJu/s640/R+Shop+&+guardian's+quarters.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Touches of civilization: solar panels and flower boxes</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<div>
The sun had again done its disappearing act for the day, despite the fact that it was only about midday when we arrived at the refuge. We were very pleased to be able to obtain lunch in the form of some great sauçisson, cheese the aforementioned bread and a hot cup of tea to wash it all down. Not having been able to get through previously to make a booking, arriving nice and early also meant that we were also lucky enough to snare spaces in the refuge.</div>
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Although quite an exposed place without a lot of plant diversity, there was still a delight here and there amongst the rocks, including this tiny community of ... whatever ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzd3J56dYD6ljUe8Y3O7ZjJ-RIFUTBesu7Pqq1oLJEwCLtXn3cBt4L36Dlo-G2N1C9puk4Wu8Z2kyvPsRPusKncW7WcDWxmhyNHLIa56kVnQDjMditI4898FyoE7LV1FnxFTs0GSdUnJQr/s1600/P+Ground-hugger.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="430" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzd3J56dYD6ljUe8Y3O7ZjJ-RIFUTBesu7Pqq1oLJEwCLtXn3cBt4L36Dlo-G2N1C9puk4Wu8Z2kyvPsRPusKncW7WcDWxmhyNHLIa56kVnQDjMditI4898FyoE7LV1FnxFTs0GSdUnJQr/s640/P+Ground-hugger.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">I have no idea what these little plants are called</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<div>
Refuge d'Usciolu was a funny little place. Perched on a small shelf on a very rocky slope meant that there wasn't much space for tents and there were far fewer available for rent than at other places along the route. Here's a view looking back up at the refuge from below ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMUmHcWpCLpcMRWW70Wh8taOx7jagaB1ZOaTDJJxvRb3230jEa3WsveNCAO-vMxeZWJDCpgJDYzwQiJ6Ayw7bPlc2hGD7UDYe5IZKY21VValRZ4dmHE7t7CwuzwNrxE0iBo3u_4B218zHQ/s1600/S+Usciolu+pano.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="374" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMUmHcWpCLpcMRWW70Wh8taOx7jagaB1ZOaTDJJxvRb3230jEa3WsveNCAO-vMxeZWJDCpgJDYzwQiJ6Ayw7bPlc2hGD7UDYe5IZKY21VValRZ4dmHE7t7CwuzwNrxE0iBo3u_4B218zHQ/s640/S+Usciolu+pano.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">Refuge d'Usciolu</span></i></b></td></tr>
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<div>
The refuge itself had a small eating area but no evidence of a kitchen. Unlike every other refuge along the route, there was no arrangement for petit déjeuner as such. One just bought provisions from the shop. We did wonder what the story was with dinner - which we'd paid our €9 each for! This mystery was solved a little later in the afternoon when I went back across to the shop to pick up a few snacks and saw big pots of pasta sauce bubbling away on a couple of burners set up on a shelf. Hey presto! The shop had been transformed into a small makeshift kitchen. It turned out that dinner was basically a big bowl of pasta, with seconds and even thirds available for those who wanted more. We found the one large bowl more than sufficient. </div>
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Well-provisioned with enough food for a reasonable breakfast in the morning and a hearty lunch along the trail, we went to bed early in preparation for another big day. If the weather co-operated we planned to double up again by skipping the normal stop at Refuge d'Asinau and going all the way through to <a href="https://www.google.com.au/search?q=Col+de+Bavella+Corsica&safe=active&client=safari&rls=en&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=XLtpUuLoD-jpiAfNvID4Aw&ved=0CAcQ_AUoATgU&biw=1623&bih=898" target="_blank">Col de Bavella</a> on the morrow ...</div>
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Doughttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12724255802945843203noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2556783246652350110.post-9620676632130684382013-10-23T16:27:00.001+11:002013-10-24T21:53:09.406+11:00Day Nine on the GR20 - Vizzavona to Bergeries de Capannelle to Col de Verde<h2>
<i>Seeing Double ... Again</i></h2>
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After <a href="http://tasmaniacsonthegr20.blogspot.com.au/2013/10/day-seven-doing-double-refuge-de.html" target="_blank">doubling up stages seven and eight</a> by circumstance rather than design and finding the experience worked quite well we had a good look at the rest of the route to consider whether we could do the same again. The situation was a bit complicated because the weather had become unsettled, but the next two stages looked promising so we decided to have a go. In fact our plan evolved to run stages thirteen and fourteen together as well, but more about that later.</div>
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To facilitate moving quickly and also to minimise Di's problem with her hip we decided to leave our camping gear at Hôtel Monte d'Oro and return for it after we finished the GR. We had rung ahead to make a booking at the Refuge de Verde (and also at the Auberge de Col de Bavella but were unable to get through to our other intended overnight stop at Refuge d'Usciolu) to ensure we had a bed for the night.<br />
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It was amazing how much gear we were able to pillage from our packs to leave behind. Again a lesson for us in our evolving attempts to travel as light as possible without running the risk of suffering hypothermia. We put the two boxes of stuff that we were leaving behind in storage, settled our bill at the hotel before going to bed and took a fantastic breakfast tray up to the room (this would prove to be the best breakfast we had on the GR and indeed during our whole stay in Corsica).<br />
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<h4>
<u>Ticking off the first bit - Hôtel Monte d'Oro to Bergeries de Capannelle</u></h4>
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The guidebook tells us this about getting from Vizzavona to Capanelle:</div>
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<ul>
<li>Distance: 16 km</li>
<li>Total ascent: 1000 m</li>
<li>Total descent: 335 m</li>
<li>Time: 5 1/2 hours</li>
</ul>
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Our link across to Bocca Palmento from Monte d'Oro had a lot less ascent but more distance so it was a little easier than coming up from Vizzavona itself. Here's what the stage looks like on a screenshot from Google Earth, with the route marked in yellow:</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPZPPyV90xmxEnMV-Y7X4yJKcRrL6757mvb84ctbW_SNg6LCtNqniaGKjQRTLOoMt-B2AVglfcqIUNhsho8ncOnfW8yjc9SXk1RzGi_VHvpgyviC7RnSlw5JpYUnQC3X9Zilf6yt0Y69cG/s1600/A+La+Foce+-+Capannelle.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPZPPyV90xmxEnMV-Y7X4yJKcRrL6757mvb84ctbW_SNg6LCtNqniaGKjQRTLOoMt-B2AVglfcqIUNhsho8ncOnfW8yjc9SXk1RzGi_VHvpgyviC7RnSlw5JpYUnQC3X9Zilf6yt0Y69cG/s640/A+La+Foce+-+Capannelle.JPG" width="594" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Hôtel Monte </span></b></i><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>d'Oro to Bergeries de Capannelle</i></b></span></td></tr>
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Unfortunately it wasn't a fine day like the one when the satellite photos were taken to put together this imagery. In fact it had rained heavily on and off all night and when we started a little bit before first light with our head torches turned on the air was fairly cool and damp with rain threatening. Being the optimists we are, we ambitiously set off with our raincoats in our packs. They didn't stay there long as its started raining almost immediately, and did so off and on for the next few hours. (Because of this you'll see relatively few photos of today's walk, and nothing in the way of great views.)</div>
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A good series of open tracks, including the Sentier de la Femme Perdue ...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3XSBL7XzFGfy4CgkvwuiDdjw_Pgb6ljnZtPdVBHC4oyMDg4YBNNikG-mm77t-x_XTLXENXYW96jjs3oZ-nI-frZzGNdCSS-SLkZB5PvlEgr8ChMPcr1TEsjt4kwNawEAZHj3o3O9v5ydI/s1600/B1+Sentier+de+la+Femme+Perdue.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3XSBL7XzFGfy4CgkvwuiDdjw_Pgb6ljnZtPdVBHC4oyMDg4YBNNikG-mm77t-x_XTLXENXYW96jjs3oZ-nI-frZzGNdCSS-SLkZB5PvlEgr8ChMPcr1TEsjt4kwNawEAZHj3o3O9v5ydI/s640/B1+Sentier+de+la+Femme+Perdue.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b><i>Good to know that we're going the right way ...</i></b></div>
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...led us across towards the Bocca Palmeto. Before the track reaches the col itself the forest gives way to open maquis vegetation. After having been sheltered amongst dense tree cover we suddenly realised it was quite windy as well as a bit wet. We hurried up to and over the bocca and were pleased to find more sheltered conditions down the other side. I paused long enough to take a photo on a bit of a shelf when the sun peeked out momentarily. You might just be able to make out a trace of rainbow in the centre of the photo ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1zrdY3aJ50ARsrE6AccsswG_5YnDsSjeq8mMY8YANHVD5KI1pOnM-zCeY-oMENSdvyOdAhNhrDcsdQ9BkhUrtzzXo0-1J7yUkuq7MBXI8QBq9ZSISgb3pJoz3Ky5fsbE3QI8wSgOOXx3u/s1600/B2+Clearing+moment.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1zrdY3aJ50ARsrE6AccsswG_5YnDsSjeq8mMY8YANHVD5KI1pOnM-zCeY-oMENSdvyOdAhNhrDcsdQ9BkhUrtzzXo0-1J7yUkuq7MBXI8QBq9ZSISgb3pJoz3Ky5fsbE3QI8wSgOOXx3u/s640/B2+Clearing+moment.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">A welcome break in the clouds</span></i></b></td></tr>
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Our hopes of seeing some good scenery lifted. The guide promises "<i style="font-weight: bold;">some wonderful views ahead of Monte Renosu and its neighbouring peaks</i>". Almost immediately though the sky again darkened ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvjtOtPWudKd-LWGdsrDxIWNrBmQaTdwZlM3cW6jEp72aJSE2xNhbLeZuwp6_cniPUZoYpFgLAP_j8U2vHrhsgPD1gbPMtybjmzJyaOqCHoFHBxVwPpmVVSl5tOlNthJAHJL__0F-mQHTv/s1600/C+Clouding+moment.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvjtOtPWudKd-LWGdsrDxIWNrBmQaTdwZlM3cW6jEp72aJSE2xNhbLeZuwp6_cniPUZoYpFgLAP_j8U2vHrhsgPD1gbPMtybjmzJyaOqCHoFHBxVwPpmVVSl5tOlNthJAHJL__0F-mQHTv/s640/C+Clouding+moment.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">The best view of the day</span></b></i></td></tr>
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... and our chances of seeing anything for at least the next couple of hours were dashed. The morning continued cool and showery as we descended the open slopes below Bocca Palmetto towards forest ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaKGmfPhA7ZB3kWsbc_kB34cJ2stCReQS5toL23XrJ4_gOiG30wRilXGY3aU80WEvJsg1JQkckLE8lU5kcJP2i8KhQZaMdaeOUGrgMG96252kYF8j05aRYjRpsfGJYduttwgdrjtkLMaog/s1600/D+Mixed+forest.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaKGmfPhA7ZB3kWsbc_kB34cJ2stCReQS5toL23XrJ4_gOiG30wRilXGY3aU80WEvJsg1JQkckLE8lU5kcJP2i8KhQZaMdaeOUGrgMG96252kYF8j05aRYjRpsfGJYduttwgdrjtkLMaog/s640/D+Mixed+forest.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>Traversing towards the Bergeries d'Alzeta</i></b></span></td></tr>
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Before long we were above the Bergeries d'Alzeta which are located in a lovely spot on the hillside ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoaeGIHrshE-XfgImCNaJgfByvluGxnsf5zKA6NsHwXF7h3lVYmyL_0A9wmGAU_Wu85ZDlU_jBnoRDxDKdg_Ncz0jmY2revywqnxAP8rgdKaly84RXs4SC_IibffrkSD_I0nLHcdSrPPY3/s1600/E+Bergeries+d'Alzeta1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="408" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoaeGIHrshE-XfgImCNaJgfByvluGxnsf5zKA6NsHwXF7h3lVYmyL_0A9wmGAU_Wu85ZDlU_jBnoRDxDKdg_Ncz0jmY2revywqnxAP8rgdKaly84RXs4SC_IibffrkSD_I0nLHcdSrPPY3/s640/E+Bergeries+d'Alzeta1.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>An idyllic setting</i></b></span></td></tr>
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The bergeries were all closed up and it looked like they were finished for the season ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtc4_gLaMUgXbLUQzgZINUNXjsSwNDkGmFOdpB0OxlvIuwhJKvRzcbirZ4rEQM_a0lYoKS1qYd6DDiW_2FS14EeNIE9KKffW_FkgvEvaKwTUWersRQlMaXddvYcf5TqAuXCO3JdqGt3bh6/s1600/F+Bergeries+d'Alzeta2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="488" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtc4_gLaMUgXbLUQzgZINUNXjsSwNDkGmFOdpB0OxlvIuwhJKvRzcbirZ4rEQM_a0lYoKS1qYd6DDiW_2FS14EeNIE9KKffW_FkgvEvaKwTUWersRQlMaXddvYcf5TqAuXCO3JdqGt3bh6/s640/F+Bergeries+d'Alzeta2.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">All quiet at the Bergeries d'Alzeta</span></b></i></td></tr>
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A couple more hours of walking through forest and up and over two easy ridges followed before the descent to the Bergeries de Capannelle and the little ski resort that is located here. It had stopped raining before we started our descent but a cool wind was blowing so we stopped in at the <a href="http://gite-u-fugone.com/" target="_blank">Gîte U Fogone</a> to warm up. We thought it was a bit early for lunch but were tempted with a hot drink and a piece of the delicious-looking chocolate cake - and were served enormous slices!</div>
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While we relaxed with our hot drinks and that fantastic chocolate cake the cloud cover had broken up a bit more but it was still very windy. We had a brief discussion about taking the high variation over <a href="http://www.summitpost.org/monte-renoso/152170" target="_blank">Monte Renoso</a>. At 2352 metres it is one of the six highest peaks in Corsica. One big attraction for Di of going this way was the lure of the <a href="http://www.toc2photo.com/blog/?p=333" target="_blank">pozzis</a> on a shelf below the Punta Cappella. Given the cold wind that was blowing and the strong chance of more rain we reluctantly opted for the main route which was a little shorter in distance but had far less ascent and descent, and would be much more sheltered if the weather did turn nasty. So, off we set on Stage 11 from:<br />
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<h4>
<u>Bergeries de Capannelle to Bocca di Verde</u></h4>
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About Stage 11 the guidebook says it "<i style="font-weight: bold;">traverses forested slopes for most of the day. Although there are some steep and rugged ascents and descents, these are quite short and for most of the time the gradients are gentle, and the paths and tracks followed are quite easy</i>". This sounded pretty good. And with these numbers ...</div>
<div>
<ul>
<li>Distance: 14 km</li>
<li>Total ascent: 320 m</li>
<li>Total descent: 620 m</li>
<li>Time: 4 1/2 hours</li>
</ul>
<div>
... we thought we could knock the second half of the day off without too much stress. I've got a couple of Google Earth images to show you for this stage. The first is just the regular plan view with the route sketched in yellow, which illustrates the amount of forest cover that this stage traverses ...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9x9VE8dFQD7I8akNngcnx3sbqPoIUkonMBdekF7e8oxYFeVg5sc5LKCwluNYJXqikp325HEmut4fqTee2Ul23gXeZ20jPmc8EHh14mynTMdkfp7wjtQMdMyg0M01eeIHk0O8ziXpBT7tC/s1600/G+Bergeries+Capannelle+to+Col+de+Verdi.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="388" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9x9VE8dFQD7I8akNngcnx3sbqPoIUkonMBdekF7e8oxYFeVg5sc5LKCwluNYJXqikp325HEmut4fqTee2Ul23gXeZ20jPmc8EHh14mynTMdkfp7wjtQMdMyg0M01eeIHk0O8ziXpBT7tC/s400/G+Bergeries+Capannelle+to+Col+de+Verdi.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Some open country but mostly forest</span></b></i></td></tr>
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The second image I've made is a perspective view, and I have drawn the route over Monte Renoso in red. If we ever go back to Corsica we will probably drive up to Capanelle so we can cover this terrain, as it looks just so lovely ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRVPssjVRlSqFFuC_7xVZ5-t9SqrKFT7hnxpL5HEj4gEEUiH1or6PO-D95fv-phC__cfA4ZmvU9_fhC3emarPGy9K4HLoasUUQClDmrLQ8WOoTLRmczatIGzPULIba2t5YEXO_KIP-yCT8/s1600/I+Bergeries+Capannelle+to+Vardi2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="448" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRVPssjVRlSqFFuC_7xVZ5-t9SqrKFT7hnxpL5HEj4gEEUiH1or6PO-D95fv-phC__cfA4ZmvU9_fhC3emarPGy9K4HLoasUUQClDmrLQ8WOoTLRmczatIGzPULIba2t5YEXO_KIP-yCT8/s640/I+Bergeries+Capannelle+to+Vardi2.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Two options exist for Stage 11</span></b></i></td></tr>
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Actually, I'll add some notes about the image above. If you enlarge it, in the background you can see text identifying the locations of both La Foce (Hôtel Monte d'Oro) where we started the day, and Vizzavona. Off to the right you can see the small town of<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ghisoni" target="_blank"> Ghisoni</a>. (In case you didn't click on the link, I'll tell you that this charming village has gone from having a population of about 2,000 souls in 1900 to about 200 nowadays.) Di and I drove up through Ghisoni from the east coast after we finished the GR to go back to Hôtel Monte d'Oro to pick up the stuff we'd left behind. The road climbs spectacularly - and tortuously - up a gorge.<br />
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Back to the day's walking? Okay! As you can see from the next photo, once we got through a bit of open ground and down in the forest we were sheltered from the wind enough to strip off our warm tops. We had to get a photo of this gnarly old tree root, still alive, with steps cut into it forming part of the main track of the GR20 ...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKREvPq7CTaTS_NhHzXUpaz5vjyD8YyBq4JkxBbT129-pyDY5XKHXA-FaW9Du9oG0EZt4Zwe75MF59v09LvYCYZfVQm0E-ejl-f2bXVgM5PYZCIM8-3TIgsWFKJbfSfsfO3a8oi5Cvqdnb/s1600/K+Root+walking.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKREvPq7CTaTS_NhHzXUpaz5vjyD8YyBq4JkxBbT129-pyDY5XKHXA-FaW9Du9oG0EZt4Zwe75MF59v09LvYCYZfVQm0E-ejl-f2bXVgM5PYZCIM8-3TIgsWFKJbfSfsfO3a8oi5Cvqdnb/s640/K+Root+walking.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Walking on wood?</span></b></i></td></tr>
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While there wasn't anything really remarkable about the rest of the day, it was very pleasant and kept us off the streets. Occasionally we'd cross a quiet stream like this one ...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQyB0b-XP0ogxxduR96jGLedTeyvqsUDgN6FR5Mdb5BiYnw-KJD20sCAGS8POwODPj9OlZBa8uXLNu0fOH_Fsah-P2lc0hqLuWWJKcygFEQzR9F-bbz5b9_uMUDSbIxvb4s7W4O58hVOx_/s1600/L+Stream+crossing.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQyB0b-XP0ogxxduR96jGLedTeyvqsUDgN6FR5Mdb5BiYnw-KJD20sCAGS8POwODPj9OlZBa8uXLNu0fOH_Fsah-P2lc0hqLuWWJKcygFEQzR9F-bbz5b9_uMUDSbIxvb4s7W4O58hVOx_/s640/L+Stream+crossing.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Stream crossing</span></b></i></td></tr>
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... with the mostly well-formed track sidling across a series of big blunt ridges through forest ...<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlpcA35lGojDUmjGqOKMHqyzdqQUYYUZEOH_gM-OGFACTTQu9N0FcrOq107tI3K9ut2Is-C9fgZdVuQC9Lp468MN_AIfCJWLV4qd4AoAzFXz_vWVAfKMR7v5kwMnOLbwSNqiKtQ_IoVQKG/s1600/M+Forest.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="570" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlpcA35lGojDUmjGqOKMHqyzdqQUYYUZEOH_gM-OGFACTTQu9N0FcrOq107tI3K9ut2Is-C9fgZdVuQC9Lp468MN_AIfCJWLV4qd4AoAzFXz_vWVAfKMR7v5kwMnOLbwSNqiKtQ_IoVQKG/s640/M+Forest.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">A section of beech forest</span></b></i></td></tr>
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From time to time we'd come across a cow or two grazing ...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_KvQCU4Us3EcFwMr1jcwelycOigumNLyyuCXo-PaHZGnnaewPM2RpG50PIxEfhxmBJ7GomJj1yEo_kl-rR1ehzkHYAfyIxuUy6hlDbGjxRg-uDG9NfFdp4zF02yWGhzUyJ5iXejf89vSn/s1600/N+Cows.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="508" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_KvQCU4Us3EcFwMr1jcwelycOigumNLyyuCXo-PaHZGnnaewPM2RpG50PIxEfhxmBJ7GomJj1yEo_kl-rR1ehzkHYAfyIxuUy6hlDbGjxRg-uDG9NfFdp4zF02yWGhzUyJ5iXejf89vSn/s640/N+Cows.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">There isn't much to eat, so make the most of it!</span></b></i></td></tr>
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I just remembered that not long before taking this photo we came across some guided groups. Travelling north, they passed us just after we'd had lunch. The interesting thing was that we started to notice a bit of a pattern: most of the time we'd seen guided groups we'd see three of them at a time, generally separated by anywhere between one and ten minutes. Today was no exception. Three groups of about a dozen punters in each mob, separated from each other by about two or three minutes.<br />
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Anyway, the rest of the stage passed pretty much uneventfully and we found ourselves at the Bocca de Verde by mid afternoon ...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOYYnSIHxJT3elvLx7AfFuMzqxOz7K0PiKoNkMuARemRObBDr_gXH9_sTyzRg38ndRnVHpfacZxyGcdIvOz5mhyphenhyphenJKqiOC-KF03CptIPBcVeZ7Q4YWq7xSS2GoUgemN5EmJFVdWsM7qGo8q/s1600/O+Bocca+de+Verde.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOYYnSIHxJT3elvLx7AfFuMzqxOz7K0PiKoNkMuARemRObBDr_gXH9_sTyzRg38ndRnVHpfacZxyGcdIvOz5mhyphenhyphenJKqiOC-KF03CptIPBcVeZ7Q4YWq7xSS2GoUgemN5EmJFVdWsM7qGo8q/s640/O+Bocca+de+Verde.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Another day; no, another GOOD day ...</span></b></i></td></tr>
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The gîte is detached from the actual restaurant. One of the distinctions about gîtes compared to refuges is that the former often - but not always - has individual bunks. We were pleased about this on two counts: we had our own window close at hand for ventilation (the French seem always to close all the windows in the refuges and it can get pretty stuffy) and we'd arrived early enough to choose beds that were located near the entrance, making it easy to get in and out.<br />
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After selecting our bunks we were delighted to discover that there were also hot showers. A bit of a rest and then up to the restaurant for refreshments. On a sunny day the terrace of the restaurant would be a lovely place to hang out, but it was cool and cloudy again by the time we arrived ...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAk5A0tLU-vM16K7DD_ff9FsbRvFntaXcHVTF4rYaWed5FDGvr-xp4UoR_IvbxvxQzKs4TeCcjRVhwrktK0hp84p5iwi5GU0jvtnVbdE97NK56QyVuAsG6u1mBa66Ectn5Zf6QgWhrAUp6/s1600/P+Refuge+di+Verde.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAk5A0tLU-vM16K7DD_ff9FsbRvFntaXcHVTF4rYaWed5FDGvr-xp4UoR_IvbxvxQzKs4TeCcjRVhwrktK0hp84p5iwi5GU0jvtnVbdE97NK56QyVuAsG6u1mBa66Ectn5Zf6QgWhrAUp6/s640/P+Refuge+di+Verde.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">On a sunny day they fire up the pizza oven; but not today sunshine!</span></b></i></td></tr>
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Thomas, Francis and John from Dublin arrived after a little while and we enjoyed a couple of drinks with them before dinner, which was a real treat the centrepiece of which was lamb chops cooked over an open fire ...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPbezb6unyOhLJfziYrizWPVhY_t72jsBrpT0-DtFfUNP3b5VR_uCFcQFa6Y_IIgZZHn0kfLsahxPzZrDCuUoW_3d57yMj9Cjd_RN0Ojm4MI7SerTK_0joy2bUnKFKqchJlR7kyRo-Eglv/s1600/Q+Dinner.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPbezb6unyOhLJfziYrizWPVhY_t72jsBrpT0-DtFfUNP3b5VR_uCFcQFa6Y_IIgZZHn0kfLsahxPzZrDCuUoW_3d57yMj9Cjd_RN0Ojm4MI7SerTK_0joy2bUnKFKqchJlR7kyRo-Eglv/s640/Q+Dinner.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Master </span></b></i><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>barbecuing in the mountains of Corsica</i></b></span></td></tr>
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And that was about it for Day 9 on the GR20: about 30 kilometres, roughly 1100 metres of ascent and 950 metres of descent over 8 1/2 hours. A very pleasant if somewhat unremarkable day out. The morrow promised more spectacular scenery if the weather co-operated so we looked forward setting out once again - nice and early of course! - in the morning.</div>
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Doughttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12724255802945843203noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2556783246652350110.post-36552242263001251602013-10-21T09:09:00.000+11:002014-07-09T18:18:42.445+10:00Day Eight on the GR20 - Bergerie de L'Onda to Vizzavona<h2>
<i>A Short Hill, a Long Slabby Descent and a Glorious Forest</i></h2>
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We awoke on the 10th of September to a bright but cool and windy morning with the threat of rain in the air. We were a little tired from doubling up the day before but buoyed with the knowledge that we'd completed 8 of 15 stages of the GR20. However, completing today's stage would mark the notional "halfway point" of the route as, with the crossing of a major road splitting the island of Corsica, one enters a new region. Also, although there are only six stages left after Vizzavona more than half of the total distance remains to be covered.</div>
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As with a number of stages of the GR there are two options for stage nine: either the standard route or the high level route which traverses over the summit of Monte d'Oro. We had toyed with the idea of doing the high level route but a number of factors put us off. Before we even left Tasmania Di pointed out that the high level route took us down into the town of Vizzavona itself and that if we went that way we'd have to climb the 3 kilometres and three hundred and twenty metres back up to the Col de Vizzavona where we'd already booked our hotel. Added to the additional three hundred metres of ascent to climb Monte d'Oro and six hundred to descend to Vizzavona rather than traversing to the col, there was a powerful argument for taking the low level route. </div>
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Taking the high level route and climbing back up to Hôtel Monte d'Oro would also add about five kilometres distance and an extra 2 and a half hours or so to our day. When we added to that the soreness Di had been experiencing with her hip and the cool windy day we were presented with that morning it was a no-brainer to go the easier way.</div>
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So, here are the statistics for this day's stage if you take the regular route but then traverse across to Hôtel Monte d'Oro as we did (these are approximations as exact figures are not given for the traverse across to the col from La Cascade Bar, and the traverse involves a gradual rise towards the col):</div>
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<ul>
<li>Total distance: ~ 11 km</li>
<li>Total ascent: ~700 m</li>
<li>Total descent: ~ 85o m</li>
<li>Time: ~ 6 hours</li>
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I've drawn the traverse across to the col and the Hôtel Monte d'Oro in red on the map:</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMYgDMXOZ6e2KAsgs2guDhJ-EzMCIrJsGEacwNfneDrTlt6_7URGYRArDVjJskDfQYpYm8K-aWW3RUJ43oOFxBa2ia-CpGAwT_jI0pRPVV2zWpWfAc9ut-OZs36ayHC18tEGrpMcifnCPg/s1600/Day+8+A+Onda+-+Col+de+Vizzavona.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMYgDMXOZ6e2KAsgs2guDhJ-EzMCIrJsGEacwNfneDrTlt6_7URGYRArDVjJskDfQYpYm8K-aWW3RUJ43oOFxBa2ia-CpGAwT_jI0pRPVV2zWpWfAc9ut-OZs36ayHC18tEGrpMcifnCPg/s640/Day+8+A+Onda+-+Col+de+Vizzavona.JPG" height="594" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Bergeries de l'Onda to Vizzavona</span></b></i></td></tr>
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As I mentioned above, the day started bright, but cool and windy. Most days in the mountains the light in the early part of the morning is the most beautiful and this day was no exception. Here is the view we encountered as we headed up the main hill for the day ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiap5CDQfBpsEXYJBi1agWyOBW4p8H5eZ-F1wclpBjCVgGLV2E9I775nJVL6qqI6ovBqYl_2NDElXN4lvEDF99ITUs5_CHIP2xA5eTh7Rf-iVw63qCfvs4aD5KknyAIxcZDI44JTnH7f1IN/s1600/Day+8+B.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiap5CDQfBpsEXYJBi1agWyOBW4p8H5eZ-F1wclpBjCVgGLV2E9I775nJVL6qqI6ovBqYl_2NDElXN4lvEDF99ITUs5_CHIP2xA5eTh7Rf-iVw63qCfvs4aD5KknyAIxcZDI44JTnH7f1IN/s640/Day+8+B.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">A Glowing Hillside with Dark Clouds Behind</span></b></i></td></tr>
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You can see how cool it is because, despite the fact that it is sunny and we are heading uphill, Di is wearing her warm hat, long pants and rain jacket. </div>
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We could hear the soft clinking of bells from below and as we climbed higher could then see a mob of sheep grazing around the first little bump on the ridge. They came more clearly into view as we climbed further up the hill ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ4rSSUNKJOEyO9Jv8UAuDW4RYztC76L-UEue_MYwyZ4H5Th40UhzMtNdkJSl6GOEatViJXPu5RCwNq_DCZVv8E-40ptxrT2UKkas8lhwucW-UQWwm4s2fiswuXD8-Ybn2TtOvp8QQSgjl/s1600/Day+8+C.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ4rSSUNKJOEyO9Jv8UAuDW4RYztC76L-UEue_MYwyZ4H5Th40UhzMtNdkJSl6GOEatViJXPu5RCwNq_DCZVv8E-40ptxrT2UKkas8lhwucW-UQWwm4s2fiswuXD8-Ybn2TtOvp8QQSgjl/s640/Day+8+C.JPG" height="382" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Sheep Graze the Hillside above the Bergerie de L'Onda</b></span></i></td></tr>
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Continuing up the ridge gave us a good view back over towards the descent from the high level route from the day before. It looked like it would have been a terrific variation had the wind not been so strong. However, we were very pleased to have covered the extra distance - and added descent and ascent - via the low level route because of the variation it added to the day. (If you are contemplating doing the GR20, you should bear this in mind as the way to go, even if it is a hot day. There are a number of glorious pools along the river that flows down the valley that would make for a wonderful cool interlude.)</div>
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In the next photo the early morning light has lost much of its lustre as cloud is starting to build up. However, you can still clearly see the track coming down the ridge from the high level variation ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu53MK2zTD8ONJk_qjsItarWU-KsE2sNlShkE8pewZJM9K9kFobtSXTcXEATEXL18UvBqgsiJadf-V1Qzn3mWBQED9se_OaBuGLqAo6EXQUc_o5_2or7hGbfeBo3zWoZ_IHPN7lsUk_TOR/s1600/Day+8+D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu53MK2zTD8ONJk_qjsItarWU-KsE2sNlShkE8pewZJM9K9kFobtSXTcXEATEXL18UvBqgsiJadf-V1Qzn3mWBQED9se_OaBuGLqAo6EXQUc_o5_2or7hGbfeBo3zWoZ_IHPN7lsUk_TOR/s640/Day+8+D.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Clouds Obscure the High-Level Variant</span></b></i></td></tr>
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Slightly higher on the ridge, as it curls around slightly another look back reveals the bergerie. The tent compound is clearly delineated as are the outbuildings ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNCEJmNaf6nxIFbv0OxS2CbSDcesh3o2sJv0ecaQ_HHeoPmzToWf1YSigKuSQF9-Ikd1ein2QJHFszXNSzbGLkB7N_8ayLW85k5qvYjB8tfBvSAliXnQBwEtCxwWgM7r-n2Ls1yJMrWvfK/s1600/Day+8+E.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNCEJmNaf6nxIFbv0OxS2CbSDcesh3o2sJv0ecaQ_HHeoPmzToWf1YSigKuSQF9-Ikd1ein2QJHFszXNSzbGLkB7N_8ayLW85k5qvYjB8tfBvSAliXnQBwEtCxwWgM7r-n2Ls1yJMrWvfK/s640/Day+8+E.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Bergerie de l'Onda</span></b></i></td></tr>
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For pretty much the rest of the day the sun hid itself behind the growing cloud cover. Here is a panorama looking back as we neared the top of the day's ascent ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnuWyquFsSGkqJ5idbZLvnpyNkrg94-eRcfUAzmIqyy42rZwyGys3EHgoL9Cc2kRlZEF0UBrJh8PuiHzX45rfIDzVoSyE416nw_vmF7amQJn2xvAuLx5-slhHBrboMQFWFsrDcCm8144Gc/s1600/Day+8+F+Looking+back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnuWyquFsSGkqJ5idbZLvnpyNkrg94-eRcfUAzmIqyy42rZwyGys3EHgoL9Cc2kRlZEF0UBrJh8PuiHzX45rfIDzVoSyE416nw_vmF7amQJn2xvAuLx5-slhHBrboMQFWFsrDcCm8144Gc/s640/Day+8+F+Looking+back.jpg" height="326" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Nearly finished climbing for the day ...</span></b></i></td></tr>
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Before we knew it really we were at the top of the climb for the day looking down into the valley leading to Vizzavona, although with the clouds massing there wasn't much to see at first ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY-b9WvmxGtg70Lkt01CxnK9rHPYH0CWRGPgiV0Dzkg8ENwJ3V-4Cy3kHYI2KGNGrIizhA2Xxh3Dvqd0wmvvNizICN7W5mpwL6rLErEjcAEiASGUb3CAVGS8CBUDLH912gHdFkwli4D7mD/s1600/Day+8+G.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY-b9WvmxGtg70Lkt01CxnK9rHPYH0CWRGPgiV0Dzkg8ENwJ3V-4Cy3kHYI2KGNGrIizhA2Xxh3Dvqd0wmvvNizICN7W5mpwL6rLErEjcAEiASGUb3CAVGS8CBUDLH912gHdFkwli4D7mD/s640/Day+8+G.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>The start of the descent into Vizzavona</i></b></span></td></tr>
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For the first part of the descent the valley drops in a series of shelves, interspersed with rocky slabs ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvPkD7NRHBcYrUwPIUcGXI5_QDMSbvVGoaiqb1n9Q_lUwHw0fsE0xvzQQD2rYM5zAMaJVvAx_lbSiVFID1M0X1QIHVcbMKGK-EV2Mng7MFcy1gxvPD3rGD2nv7T5q2SHr7szXda5Towt7t/s1600/Day+8+H.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvPkD7NRHBcYrUwPIUcGXI5_QDMSbvVGoaiqb1n9Q_lUwHw0fsE0xvzQQD2rYM5zAMaJVvAx_lbSiVFID1M0X1QIHVcbMKGK-EV2Mng7MFcy1gxvPD3rGD2nv7T5q2SHr7szXda5Towt7t/s640/Day+8+H.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Rocky slabs and a shelf high in the valley</span></b></i></td></tr>
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Although autumn is advancing, there are still splashed of colour to be seen in sheltered spots ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkl2U8ETKBVyRJFvGOCf6h25Zb5e5QfCvYkQkPD8_nROictJ2p4-vv2vaHYjEEGqTEMTXtdzq-0Dswq5Z2MZeYWTTQ1Md0kxDAjgrgaaFbsZS8fk079bVCU8BWrNkYhdNV7WbpMia9atWR/s1600/Day+8+I.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkl2U8ETKBVyRJFvGOCf6h25Zb5e5QfCvYkQkPD8_nROictJ2p4-vv2vaHYjEEGqTEMTXtdzq-0Dswq5Z2MZeYWTTQ1Md0kxDAjgrgaaFbsZS8fk079bVCU8BWrNkYhdNV7WbpMia9atWR/s640/Day+8+I.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Trumpet Gentian</span></b></i></td></tr>
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As you descend further the valley narrows into a rocky gorge with lots of beautiful slabs - which do get a bit tiring on the knees and thighs - and the river cascades through many narrow slots, dropping into crystalline pools. They have the delightful name Cascades des Anglais, apparently as this was a popular holiday destination for early English tourists. </div>
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With the cloud building up we were becoming pretty focussed on getting to Vizzavona and to my regret I didn't stop for photos much for the rest of the morning. However, this Youtube video will give you some idea of what the cascades are like ...</div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/wUfh80MHJ-I?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe><br />
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You can follow <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tOVN2rdbyiM&list=WLjzQvUQc7NCFKWxrt62zIDWbIX041QDTr" target="_blank">this link</a> if you want to see another - this time with a 360 degree view.</div>
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Although I neglected to make any photos of the cascades, I couldn't resist this Laricio Pine that had taken root just on the edge of a rocky shelf. Sculpted by the wind that must regularly roar down the gorge, it clung tenaciously to the granite. Notice the root snaking towards the camera that seems to anchor it in place ...</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">The Epitomy of Tenacity?</span></b></i></td></tr>
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It has probably become clear to the reader by now - if you've been following this blog from the start - that I have something of a liking for trees in all their shapes and sizes. Thanks to my friend Alan, before heading off to Corsica I'd read a bit about the magnificent forests of Corsica in Edward Lear's <a href="http://books.google.com.au/books/about/Journal_of_a_Landscape_Painter_in_Corsic.html?id=jb0BAAAAYAAJ&redir_esc=y" target="_blank">Journal of a Landscape Painter in Corsica</a>. I am sure that the forests are much diminished from what they were when Lear visited the island some 150 years ago, but there are still occasional stands, and individual trees, that can't help but impress. The size of some of the deciduous trees amazed us Taswegians as we simply don't have much in the way of indigenous deciduous trees here on our Antipodean island. One of the lovely aspects of the forest in Corsica is the mixture of evergreen and deciduous trees. Here we have entered a patch of beech forest, where one mighty specimen dominated his smaller siblings ...</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Early autumn in the beech forest</span></b></i></td></tr>
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We had actually traversed a little higher than the route Paddy Dillon describes in his guidebook and emerged near the Col de Vizzavona itself, a few hundred metres up the road from the hotel where we passed by this old ruined chateau ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOF2aIW7-z5WozQ0DJKuih4rMNDYnBK0iD21jQNFHD5DJWxIdJpj0Rdk7UzP4rIwOFhBEWrn-2zeUvof8mC8IXAUFshNWP7ebL_gDfeWP3q3FWtT21UPUBnIm2h5bw_nMaiCsb1mpxRB1B/s1600/Day+8+L.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOF2aIW7-z5WozQ0DJKuih4rMNDYnBK0iD21jQNFHD5DJWxIdJpj0Rdk7UzP4rIwOFhBEWrn-2zeUvof8mC8IXAUFshNWP7ebL_gDfeWP3q3FWtT21UPUBnIm2h5bw_nMaiCsb1mpxRB1B/s640/Day+8+L.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Ruined chateau near the Col de Vizzavona</span></b></i></td></tr>
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Arriving at our destination in just under five hours after leaving Bergerie de L'Onda, we found the attached gîte first. It was quite cool by this stage so we stopped for a hot drink and some frîtes in the café to warm ourselves up. The café was packed with hikers waiting for the gîte to open, so it was nice and cosy inside.</div>
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The hotel itself was quite a curiosity. We wandered over after our snack, hoping that we might be able to check in early. First impressions are not auspicious, as the entrance is pretty much just the opposite of most hotels: dark, cluttered and rather pokey. I have to admit that I was very nonplussed when we first entered. This screenshot of the <a href="http://www.tripadvisor.com.au/Hotel_Review-g1198566-d1547565-Reviews-Monte_D_Oro-Vizzavona_Haute_Corse_Corsica.html" target="_blank">range of reviews for Hôtel Monte d'Oro in tripadvisor.com</a> might serve as a bit of an introduction to the hotel's quirkiness ...</div>
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We had booked for two nights so we could have a break halfway through the walk and to visit Corté, the old capital of Corsica, the next day. Despite first appearances, and also given the fact that we were there and didn't really want to look for something else I reluctantly agreed with Di that we should stay. We had arrived a night early but the proprietor was able to move our booking forward for us, and we headed up to our room and settled in. </div>
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The hotel was opened in 1904 and retains much of its style and grandeur from those days. Plumbing and electrical fittings have been upgraded, but not much else it seems! My first impressions were allayed somewhat when we went into our room. It was spacious and comfortable, but rather dark. On the other hand the bed was good and firm.</div>
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After settling in we wandered out with the intention of heading down towards Vizzavona because we wanted to check out the continuation of the route and find some lunch. We didn't see the link track, but did find an excellent lunch in a restaurant nearby. Continuing down towards the township, which is really just a railway station, a bar and a couple of hotels, we eventually concluded that we must have missed the track. Just before reaching the railway station we came across the remnants of what looked like it must have been a grand hotel ...</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Renovator's dream ... or nightmare?</span></b></i></td></tr>
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After having a coffee at the café we called for the navette back to the hotel, very glad that we didn't have to walk all the way back up the hill. Carefully looking around where we expected the access to the link track to be we found it hidden up the driveway beside a large, modern but seemingly unoccupied building. </div>
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Happy that we'd be able to make an efficient departure when we left, we went back to the hotel. Shortly thereafter the rain started, and it just poured. We were happy to be snug and cosy in this grand old building - especially as it poured all night. And were delighted with what we found once we started exploring a bit. First of all was this delightful, old-world salon with a piano and at one end and a fireplace at the other ...</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">The salon</span></b></i></td></tr>
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When we were ushered into dinner we were captivated by the dining room, where ivy had been let grow into the room. This picture doesn't do justice to the ambience but will give you some idea of how it has been trained to spread across the ceiling ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQPJL0eAIpYAMb2ZCFj27j1bM4W2NXXq5eN-fH0YWTcpbPqIprQ3y-hI7eI28MBSm9kWO3T0z1kus2arMqUISbdcUSTvElOGXqYeKveKar8l-Dp9D3RV5jziSXa-xiSfONwrpNGgCS60vh/s1600/Day+8+O+Monte+Doro+dining+ivy.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQPJL0eAIpYAMb2ZCFj27j1bM4W2NXXq5eN-fH0YWTcpbPqIprQ3y-hI7eI28MBSm9kWO3T0z1kus2arMqUISbdcUSTvElOGXqYeKveKar8l-Dp9D3RV5jziSXa-xiSfONwrpNGgCS60vh/s640/Day+8+O+Monte+Doro+dining+ivy.jpeg" height="640" width="478" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>Monte d'Oro dining room</i></b></span></td></tr>
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The best part though was the meal: the food was fantastic and a great reward for having completed the first section of the GR20. After our excellent repast we went off to bed, looking forward to a day of R & R in Corté the next day. </div>
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Unfortunately, although it was warmer and sunnier out of the mountains, our visit to Corté was a significant disappointment. We're not great city-goers at the best of times, and after being in the mountains for eight days we found the narrow streets choked with traffic and the footpaths choked with tourists - most of them smoking - an utter assault on our senses. Don't get me wrong: there were a couple of things that we liked about Corté. The small, older part of the city just below the citadel was enchanting. And at the other end of town where the bureau de poste is located, which seems to be the administrative centre there were a couple of lovely wide boulevards. One of them had this sign erected amongst a little garden ...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5lXv9jBIymNZ3YeWrdpuC0qtnkDX12_xAp1U0-vFa8RY4FWk3_x1RMsCSl6sg8yYZ3jWb7eHhYIWXth6Pwic2i4l7oGSbRbPSBYW8gy731IZVEhWMKBZulX6xf7HtukTa59nsE7bjuMh_/s1600/Dogs+in+Corte%CC%81.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5lXv9jBIymNZ3YeWrdpuC0qtnkDX12_xAp1U0-vFa8RY4FWk3_x1RMsCSl6sg8yYZ3jWb7eHhYIWXth6Pwic2i4l7oGSbRbPSBYW8gy731IZVEhWMKBZulX6xf7HtukTa59nsE7bjuMh_/s400/Dogs+in+Corte%CC%81.jpg" height="400" width="375" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">Are the dogs in Corté literate?</span></i></b></td></tr>
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Glad to get on the train back to Vizzavona, we found we had to stand all the way as it was packed with tourists returning to Ajaccio. So, after all that we looked forward to getting out on the trail again the next day ...</div>
Doughttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12724255802945843203noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2556783246652350110.post-10323231532164659812013-10-18T22:45:00.001+11:002013-10-23T13:17:53.909+11:00Day Seven on the GR20 - Doing the Double: Refuge de Manganu to Refuge de Petra Piana to Bergeries de L'Onda<h2>
<i>A Big Day Unfolds</i></h2>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdLZ4oa57hkyIA_e_i3_01nhyphenhyphen7RSkwLJuzfzSLog4WaTJ3S2Zf1ZuWxk8686zJEC_CmuLiVJgmoXqqTMTmh6_8ufg9i_leDerayL0t6nyo1i9fPUxyL9Q5RZ9Tbfu5dBq_hyktfptV7r-g/s1600/A+Day+7+map.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="500" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdLZ4oa57hkyIA_e_i3_01nhyphenhyphen7RSkwLJuzfzSLog4WaTJ3S2Zf1ZuWxk8686zJEC_CmuLiVJgmoXqqTMTmh6_8ufg9i_leDerayL0t6nyo1i9fPUxyL9Q5RZ9Tbfu5dBq_hyktfptV7r-g/s640/A+Day+7+map.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Two stages in one: Refuge de Manganu to Bergeries de L'Onda</span></b></i></td></tr>
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We hadn't intended to combine two stages, but our eyes had been opened to the idea after seeing a number of walkers arrive on Day Three at Haut Asco about the same time as us, have an early lunch and then continue on - probably to Refuge de Tighjettu. Here's how the day unfolded ...</div>
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<u>Stage 7: Manganu to Petra Piana</u></h4>
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Details:</div>
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<li>Distance: 10 km</li>
<li>Total ascent: 980 m</li>
<li>Total descent: 740 m</li>
<li>Time: 7 hours</li>
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Carrying on past Petra Piana was the last thing on our minds when we set out from Manganu at about 6:30. With the weather looking fairly ordinary we were just keen to get up and over the highest point on the main trail of the GR20. The guidebook made us aware that there are "<i style="font-weight: bold;">awkward slabs, boulders, gullies and short scrambles to deal with as you make your way along the high ridges</i>".</div>
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The day started with a gradual climb up a narrowing valley, initially on a pretty good path ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEmn3Zb2hZ5ur68vIhYaH-yPsW_cvldu0DFkkfpKdSCQHl-celKjy6RxEdfH7mz5umkZnrjrLh3xwrDr3SZ6FrwCBfzfg0Z6fCXgqbnYbpWxAKOgm7ACXCLcikLiwfnABDA2xGEPNxIb3B/s1600/B+Day+7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEmn3Zb2hZ5ur68vIhYaH-yPsW_cvldu0DFkkfpKdSCQHl-celKjy6RxEdfH7mz5umkZnrjrLh3xwrDr3SZ6FrwCBfzfg0Z6fCXgqbnYbpWxAKOgm7ACXCLcikLiwfnABDA2xGEPNxIb3B/s640/B+Day+7.jpg" width="526" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">I still haven't shed the (extra) layer of fat <a href="http://tasmaniacsonthegr20.blogspot.com.au/2013/10/preparing-for-gr20.html" target="_blank">accumulated in FNQ</a> ...</span></b></i></td></tr>
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following a lovely stream initially before climbing up a steep, boulder-strewn slope before passing a waterfall. Some upward traversing over bare rock led to a flat, grassy area where we normally would have expected to see sheep or cattle grazing. I wondered whether their absence meant that they had been rounded up and driven down into the lowlands.</div>
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The mist swirling about meant that there wasn't a lot to look at while we ascended towards the high ridges so we plodded steadily upwards without trying to take photographs, and the going became quite rough with some large boulders needing to be negotiated at one point. Eventually we reached another major milestone on the GR20 in the form of the Breche du Capitellu, which at 2225 metres is the highest point on the main trail ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijZwVkJ8XDtMFJhRk0oixrrVEjWkEWcj4RqeaXN2YFIBkdC6IAZs_DMsO0KIwZl-dGgORZ3XTAhgGvBgT1lKV8SdVfl7AnAdjsBeAMgVlfWDdr5pLybjdIbb8PK-0iYlDGclFRFzdqJwlo/s1600/D+Day+7.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijZwVkJ8XDtMFJhRk0oixrrVEjWkEWcj4RqeaXN2YFIBkdC6IAZs_DMsO0KIwZl-dGgORZ3XTAhgGvBgT1lKV8SdVfl7AnAdjsBeAMgVlfWDdr5pLybjdIbb8PK-0iYlDGclFRFzdqJwlo/s640/D+Day+7.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Breche du Capitellu</span></b></i></td></tr>
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... where a liaison track leads down past the Lac du Capitellu and on to <a href="https://maps.google.com.au/maps?client=safari&q=Corte+Corsica&oe=UTF-8&ie=UTF-8&ei=BfhgUpe3E6mziQfMu4GwDQ&ved=0CAoQ_AUoAg" target="_blank">Corte</a>, the old capital of Corsica.</div>
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A short descent towards a high shelf ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLLkXcC6NtfcP1o5AvQSlrugb0F1azC1czBXBNAR9PNZzjLpH2znCG6OUYR5-FYC8UzzVOokCmkbLqRyKkdQYFwnp2pAxUo2KIK9sTUZw4Z-veehscrC-pHATaiLl93jSzTk5-H4d3uwql/s1600/C+Day+7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLLkXcC6NtfcP1o5AvQSlrugb0F1azC1czBXBNAR9PNZzjLpH2znCG6OUYR5-FYC8UzzVOokCmkbLqRyKkdQYFwnp2pAxUo2KIK9sTUZw4Z-veehscrC-pHATaiLl93jSzTk5-H4d3uwql/s640/C+Day+7.jpg" width="512" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Taking care amongst bouldery scree</span></b></i></td></tr>
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... followed by a bit of sidling along the shelf and then a scramble up through some rock led us eventually out on to a high ridge where the track wound around a series of towers ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1pVMzC8fb3xs0a4pGDeKzPFW9r2wO804TxxY71VdAJ6loEnnLYLBpdKqRjHWlbiaaq1NRF8hIz3nDcX9WMhH1AP9nRrv8VfDlkkgMFRXOa4-VtjpjtQGvISEc8UKpfn_uNtJ4rr33zAqL/s1600/E+Day+7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1pVMzC8fb3xs0a4pGDeKzPFW9r2wO804TxxY71VdAJ6loEnnLYLBpdKqRjHWlbiaaq1NRF8hIz3nDcX9WMhH1AP9nRrv8VfDlkkgMFRXOa4-VtjpjtQGvISEc8UKpfn_uNtJ4rr33zAqL/s640/E+Day+7.jpg" width="478" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Walking in the clouds</span></b></i></td></tr>
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Driven by strong winds, the clouds swirled about us occasionally opening to allow the sun through ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5k8lnQuNiO5LjynQQsEQhsFOwfZsIgFd0J3GiEWnzxyxgli2kaGRqMBZclcUB2H92LXTcUg4QFBQanmbGtml39_1KH95Veno65bzLvhQwQIkef92_LdPnOJPvtqPFaEQFP96mfxJBgMzs/s1600/F+Day+7.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5k8lnQuNiO5LjynQQsEQhsFOwfZsIgFd0J3GiEWnzxyxgli2kaGRqMBZclcUB2H92LXTcUg4QFBQanmbGtml39_1KH95Veno65bzLvhQwQIkef92_LdPnOJPvtqPFaEQFP96mfxJBgMzs/s640/F+Day+7.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">A moment of sunshine</span></b></i></td></tr>
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It was glorious walking, although with the amount of rock underfoot we had to keep an eye on the trail most of the time. Occasionally, tucked away behind a large boulder or in some other sheltered spot we'd come across little patches of colour ...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAJarUhViloCgbQ0wS12y8cv-csh8nf5_xwmWn7eRYDbVZm43gb2oXMDJJfpyz193vzfxJyN1DmYteEF3-hvyx0GOjpm2CQVk2TdCs668Uhq7dm0-5DVVIcLnpY-8z2jqWYirUarpWpQI1/s1600/G+Day+7.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="386" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAJarUhViloCgbQ0wS12y8cv-csh8nf5_xwmWn7eRYDbVZm43gb2oXMDJJfpyz193vzfxJyN1DmYteEF3-hvyx0GOjpm2CQVk2TdCs668Uhq7dm0-5DVVIcLnpY-8z2jqWYirUarpWpQI1/s400/G+Day+7.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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We often seemed to be just on the edge of the weather ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPZAjSY9vEXdLWRAkhi-yzhL0S3THJLi0OCXUaNcEa5qOStidsJAP3jIxpdWzXpjAjRFTXN9uXKxo5ZHUKO6RhOeJmKX4zst0M9x2_aHT2ekByAwPwnBQ83O50TdgJ6ZGBao-W5LTwZUPt/s1600/H+Day+7.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPZAjSY9vEXdLWRAkhi-yzhL0S3THJLi0OCXUaNcEa5qOStidsJAP3jIxpdWzXpjAjRFTXN9uXKxo5ZHUKO6RhOeJmKX4zst0M9x2_aHT2ekByAwPwnBQ83O50TdgJ6ZGBao-W5LTwZUPt/s640/H+Day+7.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">This image makes me think of Bruce Cockburn's song "<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SuhKatZY_kU" target="_blank">High Winds, White Sky</a>"</span></b></i></td></tr>
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The next photo gives a peek along the ridge back the way we've come ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp1Czix7IQsYlkn7q6xaeObTMM4KoMhja5A3VnJMzvImyT6MqFiKBdWovfGMkFLTZORTNG8yMAzBThmofhCKDHIqgB_afOwpeJ30jCmqkUc1_Yz875tDqfpHFOi_LCRJKCjD0Jy7IMh60x/s640/I+Day+7.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Rock Garden in the Sky</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp1Czix7IQsYlkn7q6xaeObTMM4KoMhja5A3VnJMzvImyT6MqFiKBdWovfGMkFLTZORTNG8yMAzBThmofhCKDHIqgB_afOwpeJ30jCmqkUc1_Yz875tDqfpHFOi_LCRJKCjD0Jy7IMh60x/s1600/I+Day+7.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><i><b></b></i></a></div>
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In the next photo we are nearing a col on the ridge, where we will drop down and then traverse on to the flank of Punta Muzzella, visible on the left in the background ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxTRNUmkP965haop0kTdit8sgpLLSV18KsCLSJWnhmVQlhGSOyifAJwzR2f9Q_R0Jp3xKTUP1oAQY4FWNygIXHcrQ1MAZZ-wrNa8yVkDJSoUq-qq2vZI59atF9nU8yjdFRPgzerqAjB9W3/s1600/J+Day+7.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxTRNUmkP965haop0kTdit8sgpLLSV18KsCLSJWnhmVQlhGSOyifAJwzR2f9Q_R0Jp3xKTUP1oAQY4FWNygIXHcrQ1MAZZ-wrNa8yVkDJSoUq-qq2vZI59atF9nU8yjdFRPgzerqAjB9W3/s640/J+Day+7.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Wonderful ridge walking</span></b></i></td></tr>
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Walkers lucky enough to experience this section in fine weather can enjoy great views down to Lac de Capitellu and Lac du Melo, where there is a hut. We did get a good look at Lac du Melo as we were traversing high above it a little later, when the clouds cleared away for a while.</div>
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In the next photo we have reached the col and are enjoying the panoramic view back the way we've come. There are actually three hikers on the ridge ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuX6xi60IPEx5TD4c0rVE5eQOdeMC4eD1E2GGeXj-FZVenQBKi6IR4cnxhOFPNOiBqtIxtL-qy2pbKtbzN-RTkbPebHh5oi2Zj3coAIcgpHd0rRlsQqgqZNp0UqYHJRZQCRMnZeatM_IYt/s1600/K+Day+7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="284" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuX6xi60IPEx5TD4c0rVE5eQOdeMC4eD1E2GGeXj-FZVenQBKi6IR4cnxhOFPNOiBqtIxtL-qy2pbKtbzN-RTkbPebHh5oi2Zj3coAIcgpHd0rRlsQqgqZNp0UqYHJRZQCRMnZeatM_IYt/s640/K+Day+7.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>A wonderful look back at where we've been this morning</i></b></span></td></tr>
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... which you can see more easily if you expand the next photo which gives a closer look ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbXi0XjtxPSDCKmT1Bi5foGpbEi29ej87M5D2nKUL-IYJ8mfFheZ12fHyvVgymvb3iCBd6VyIvuiBdS7q5qtdWrAkhDo9bwCl3fKgntk6CFd8jkOYdh9-nlYMUPdFvy1Rr-KbG9Z7vYa_k/s1600/L+Day+7+Ridge+detail+with+walkers.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="434" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbXi0XjtxPSDCKmT1Bi5foGpbEi29ej87M5D2nKUL-IYJ8mfFheZ12fHyvVgymvb3iCBd6VyIvuiBdS7q5qtdWrAkhDo9bwCl3fKgntk6CFd8jkOYdh9-nlYMUPdFvy1Rr-KbG9Z7vYa_k/s640/L+Day+7+Ridge+detail+with+walkers.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Behind us, walkers descend the ridge</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<div>
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<div>
The bouldery traverse across the flank of Punta Muzzella afforded us some great views ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnRG_Yotk9bfh1AKBU0-HiSBzRH7F5MSTkrCrWv54bJ72dNAFYAcO4pmod0ZL2prEimad9Q8Dal0FnETmwLkWp94eyGgDcQAw72qt_WeRX-ckhpQ72s7PJQTQfAJg9EQRLrEcCt2SVTYDz/s1600/M+Day+7.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnRG_Yotk9bfh1AKBU0-HiSBzRH7F5MSTkrCrWv54bJ72dNAFYAcO4pmod0ZL2prEimad9Q8Dal0FnETmwLkWp94eyGgDcQAw72qt_WeRX-ckhpQ72s7PJQTQfAJg9EQRLrEcCt2SVTYDz/s640/M+Day+7.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>Di picks her way along the bouldery route</i></b></span></td></tr>
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<div>
... and occasionally we'd pause and enjoy views back along the way we'd come ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM0uYHmPo1TwwVnJBkgha2PHFEZ0SANRo4RKEDrw4D8xPs6jcbsi1J_aNIbwMNF1hqJAdtqRGFIpm9MXVboF1DWvegnQ0i8mhDZNhS3fLGQa73A7Nm8Sv6GK6wYkPXPcovyfl64g4DE1ID/s1600/N+Day+7.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="406" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM0uYHmPo1TwwVnJBkgha2PHFEZ0SANRo4RKEDrw4D8xPs6jcbsi1J_aNIbwMNF1hqJAdtqRGFIpm9MXVboF1DWvegnQ0i8mhDZNhS3fLGQa73A7Nm8Sv6GK6wYkPXPcovyfl64g4DE1ID/s640/N+Day+7.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>A moody day in the mountains</i></b></span></td></tr>
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<div>
Down off the ridge and hugging the flanks of Punta Muzzella gave us a bit of shelter from the wind and, with the strenuous traversing through large boulders warming me up I paused to take off my fleece sweater ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMuhdk3XiRnQJJEEQevNtyA-_O7BVb1ADSPbp1q7EgMoUWGn5PaXOeg3aYCfCfReTdukQ96yTWxe0p8m5q-LHnhX9E9nf2Cni4FMo7_ob5tCBgb3uxeeSLfI-Iia4eZDuTSDDMeF6Qf-lf/s1600/O+Day+7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMuhdk3XiRnQJJEEQevNtyA-_O7BVb1ADSPbp1q7EgMoUWGn5PaXOeg3aYCfCfReTdukQ96yTWxe0p8m5q-LHnhX9E9nf2Cni4FMo7_ob5tCBgb3uxeeSLfI-Iia4eZDuTSDDMeF6Qf-lf/s640/O+Day+7.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Yes! We ARE having fun ...</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<div>
You might notice a bit of dead vegetation. The guidebook mentions "<i style="font-weight: bold;">pushing through dense alder scrub" </i>at this point. We were very pleased to see that much of the scrub had been cut back away from the path, probably by guides leading tour groups through. Just as we were giving up on getting a really good look down to either of the lakes, the sun came bursting out and afforded us this wonderful view ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgCvlF4Z6ppBPhobq85ziF3k7R13ELIdaZaJTCs3AeVyLjtN1tN8tmqK-lI7YkBPfudQ-zoE5IQum5k0TyPcjVyy_N524uK6oSTZKQy3YpOj-Gk5fiLKtBbGmlsfGspJNcx-MF-UtTPBKJ/s1600/P+Day+7+pano.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="448" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgCvlF4Z6ppBPhobq85ziF3k7R13ELIdaZaJTCs3AeVyLjtN1tN8tmqK-lI7YkBPfudQ-zoE5IQum5k0TyPcjVyy_N524uK6oSTZKQy3YpOj-Gk5fiLKtBbGmlsfGspJNcx-MF-UtTPBKJ/s640/P+Day+7+pano.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>Wild Beauty on the GR20</i></b></span></td></tr>
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<div>
Through the Bocca Renosa we went, where we were again exposed to the wind, so we put our warm tops back on. Then it was across a high exposed shelf towards the Bocca Muzzella but, before we got there, we came across a very interesting scene. A tour group was stopped and one of the guides was absolutely raising hell with one of the clients. From what we could make out, they'd stopped to put on windproof jackets but the client in question had decided he didn't need to follow the guide's instructions. Well! Wasn't he being told his fortune in no uncertain terms! Although we didn't understand much of what was being said because it was pretty rapid-fire and at full volume it was clear that the guide didn't like having his authority questioned. And fair enough; exposure could easily have been an outcome, especially for a member of one of these groups which tend to move pretty slowly exposing them to the wind for longer periods. </div>
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<div>
I guess what was so bemusing for us about this whole scene though was the forcefulness with which the message was being delivered. Perhaps unfairly - as my conclusion was, admittedly based on fairly limited experience, I mused that the guide must have been Corsican. There was no diplomacy whatsoever. It was a "my way or the highway" sort of situation. No knives were in evidence but ... we were happy to continue on our merry way and leave them to their discussions.</div>
<div>
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<div>
After a couple of hours hiking above 2000 metres we arrived at the Bocca Muzzella ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1HgRUiP-0oXcDv7Zbv_sj7XUuZt9Z7us4djV4LO0zH9n20vZx4RmPHC3Mgmvd_4Cxu1T3FndW4IrOWpfDd9xAS3WEmFOV8oFZDDYbLHMMg-5dP15NtMnSQzidwKxlJ0loljm-1AAOSkke/s1600/Q+Day+7.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1HgRUiP-0oXcDv7Zbv_sj7XUuZt9Z7us4djV4LO0zH9n20vZx4RmPHC3Mgmvd_4Cxu1T3FndW4IrOWpfDd9xAS3WEmFOV8oFZDDYbLHMMg-5dP15NtMnSQzidwKxlJ0loljm-1AAOSkke/s400/Q+Day+7.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Bocca Muzzella</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<div>
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<div>
... before starting the steep, 360 metre descent towards Refuge de Petra Piana. Once again we marvelled at how high up these slopes the deciduous forest stretched ...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm6Nikx8fAjIbO7gWhmfpZPUyn9P1MsWVQN1O6NhgfNYIadeCVjJnjzZQNGrzOVWeEeI1cTWbd6aHmxe6eQz-hLkv3BqKxIT5-0fOXrOf3P3KdaHbiNPw5xaQJ1nPdcmw5PANpvR_6yyKP/s1600/S+Day+7+Hillsides+above+Petra+Piana.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="326" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm6Nikx8fAjIbO7gWhmfpZPUyn9P1MsWVQN1O6NhgfNYIadeCVjJnjzZQNGrzOVWeEeI1cTWbd6aHmxe6eQz-hLkv3BqKxIT5-0fOXrOf3P3KdaHbiNPw5xaQJ1nPdcmw5PANpvR_6yyKP/s640/S+Day+7+Hillsides+above+Petra+Piana.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<div>
Before long we were nearing Refuge de Petra Piana ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwQ1mlFCSpgERcBtkE4XG-vdGz7ih5XxJBVzSiA71XpmABnKkixCndtBF3NsQXRCQ1KE2HZe2NfuKnzlKZ45N2qTWGVdOjzxu9PtaaL68Uhr3IVawEbvJuo_xTIx0gu1awY6pP2wzV8S_x/s1600/R+Day+7.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="396" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwQ1mlFCSpgERcBtkE4XG-vdGz7ih5XxJBVzSiA71XpmABnKkixCndtBF3NsQXRCQ1KE2HZe2NfuKnzlKZ45N2qTWGVdOjzxu9PtaaL68Uhr3IVawEbvJuo_xTIx0gu1awY6pP2wzV8S_x/s640/R+Day+7.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Above Refuge Petra de Piana</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<div>
... and were greatly surprised to arrive at just after 11:00 a.m., a mere four and a half hours after leaving Refuge de Manganu. No doubt having had a good rest at Manganu the previous day had helped us recover from the first five days of walking.</div>
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<div>
We thought the experience at Refuge de Petra Piana would be similar. Relax a bit, have a feed and relax some more. However, down on the shelf where Petra Piana sits the wind was blowing quite strongly and it was too cool to sit around comfortably. To make matters worse, there were signs up saying "Pas Petit Dejeuner" and "Pas Dejeuner". It seemed that the tour groups had cleaned the guardian out of all his bread and much of his supplies for lunch. We were able to buy a bit of snack food and had a bit of a feed but then we were in a bit of a quandary about what to do next.</div>
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<div>
We didn't really feel like putting up the tent and huddling inside for the rest of the day until dinner was ready. And what of breakfast the next day. After a bit of deliberation we decided we'd push on to the Bergerie de L'Onda. The high-level variation would have been quicker with less elevation gain and loss but Di agreed to go on only if we took the low route as it was still very gusty and cool at the refuge and it would have been quite fierce up on the ridge. After replenishing our water we set off for the next stage:</div>
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<h4>
<u>Stage 8: Petra Piana to Bergerie de L'Onda</u></h4>
<div>
Distance: 11 km</div>
<div>
Total ascent: 500 m</div>
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Total descent: 910 m</div>
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Time: 5 hours</div>
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We set off with quite slowly as the descent from Petra Piana is very steep to begin with. Not far after leaving we came across the first hikers arriving from below ...</div>
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As we descended we followed a lovely stream, with many small waterfalls like this one out in the open in the upper reaches of the valley ...</div>
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Before too long - or too much complaining from our tired knees - the angle of the descent relented. And, as it did, we entered a most beautiful forest where the stream continued to cascade intermittently but now into even more gorgeous pools ...</div>
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We walked for what seemed like a long time through the forest ...</div>
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... where delightful orchids started to appear ...</div>
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After about 800 metres of descent we arrived at the Bergeries de Tolla where a lovely cottage presented itself and suggested we stop the night ...</div>
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... but we resisted the temptation and wandered on to the spot where they had food and drink on offer for passing hikers and ordered a very welcome repast ...</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Tisane for Di, Iced Tea for me, bread and cheese for both of us</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<div>
Much refreshed, we hoisted our packs and continued on our way. In ten minutes the descent was complete, we crossed the footbridge over the Ruisseau de Manganellu and started the 500 metre ascent to Bergerie de L'Onda. </div>
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Thankfully it was a steady rather than steep climb, and the forest continued to be a delight. Lower down on the slopes it was a mixture of fantastic huge beech trees like this one ...</div>
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... scattered amongst more juvenile examples, along with a good smattering of pines. </div>
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At first the route follows an old road, perhaps used for logging in the past. A little way up the road was a barbecue area that looked like it got plenty of use ...</div>
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As we ascended higher into the forest the pines began to dominate and in places there was a thick covering of pine cones alongside the track, often with an orchid peeking through ...</div>
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Finally, but sooner than we'd dared hope, we arrived at the Bergerie de L'Onda and the campground ...</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">First view of Bergerie de L'Onda</span></b></i></td></tr>
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Regretfully, this is the only photo I have of the Bergerie. The wind was blowing quite fiercely when we arrived (the sleeping bag you can see in the photo was rescued before it blew away) and we were intent on getting out tent up, having a shower and getting something to eat. However the first priority, as always was to ensure that we had a place at the dinner table. That secured, we put the tent up, observing that two of the rented tents had been ripped to shreds by the wind. We discovered that a hot shower was available for a two Euro fee, which we were happy to pay after such a long day. We were tired but pretty pleased to have covered a total of 21 kilometres, along with 1480 metres of ascent and 1650 metres of descent in 10 hours - including stops. Dinner was fantastic, and we had no trouble sleeping that night despite the wind snapping relentlessly at the tent.</div>
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Doughttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12724255802945843203noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2556783246652350110.post-69457445590391021372013-10-16T20:28:00.001+11:002013-10-23T13:17:41.780+11:00Day Six on the GR20 - Hôtel Castel di Vergio to Refuge de Manganu<h2>
<i>A Pleasant Morning's Hike ...</i></h2>
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Today's stage was a very nice change of pace from the previous five days, allowing for some good recovery and even time where it wasn't necessary to keep a constant vigil on the surface of the track. Indeed there were even sections that were relatively rock-free as one of the photos below will show.</div>
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I've described this stage as a pleasant <i style="font-weight: bold;">morning's</i> walk because one can easily arrive at Refuge de Manganu in time for lunch, which is great because they do a great onion omelette. More about that later.</div>
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The guidebook says this about today's walk:</div>
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<li>Distance: 17 km</li>
<li>Total ascent: 670 m</li>
<li>Total descent: 475 m</li>
<li>Time: 5 3/4 hours</li>
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We are inclined to think that Paddy Dillon must have made a mistake regarding the distance, as we actually completed the stage in just on four hours and we weren't exactly racing along. In fact Di's hip started bothering her so we were deliberately pacing ourselves. Although slightly uphill over all, it's pretty flat most of the way and what height you gain and lose is done quite gradually. As mentioned above the path is quite good most of the way so you can actually walk with a bit of a rhythm for a quite a lot of the time. Here's what the stage looks like on the map:</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Castel di Vergio to Refuge de Manganu</span></b></i></td></tr>
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Breakfast at the hotel started at 7:00 a.m. and was actually quite good, I think we even had a croissant along with the bread, as well as juice in our demi pension petit dejeuner. I also paid a bit more to have one of the great-looking fruit salads that was on display as I'd been feeling the distinct lack of fresh fruit over the past five days. The weather was looking just a bit iffy, so I had a chat with the owner/manager of the hotel and got him to check out the forecast for us. It said that it might rain a little later in the day. That proved to be a bit of a joke as it started to shower just as we went out the door! However, it didn't seem to be amounting to anything at that stage so we decided to hold off putting on our rain jackets as it was relatively warm.</div>
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The day starts with a short descent along the road before dropping into the forest and then some more gradual descending before the path levels out. It's quite refreshing - and even though the guidebook alerts you that "<i><b>the path is well engineered and a joy to walk</b></i>" - somewhat of a surprise given what we've had for the first five days to be able to actually walk without having to constantly keep our eyes on the track. The forest is a lovely mix of mostly young pines, birches and some fantastic larger beech trees.</div>
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After about an hour or so of this lovely walking the path suddenly veers steeply uphill, but only remains steep for a very short distance before climbing more gradually via switchbacks. After about half an hour of climbing you reach a saddle on a ridge where a small chapel awaits your attention ...</div>
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... with this little icon inside ...</div>
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Looking back over the way we'd come we could see the Hôtel Castel di Vergio below and beyond to Capu Tafunatu (look directly above the hotel) with its tell-tale hole ...</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">No the photo's not doctored; yes, there is a hole in the mountain!</span></i></b></td></tr>
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After five days of fairly strenuous effort, perhaps the short steep section before the path eased off and reached this spot was the final straw for Di's dodgy hip, as it started to worry her for the first time on the entire route. As the day was really only getting started and we had some climbing ahead we rearranged our packs so she didn't have quite so much weight. That seemed to help and we continued on up the ridge.</div>
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After a few hundred metres it started showering again, gradually increasing until the point where we were forced to don our rain jackets - but not our waterproof pants (I hate hiking in long pants, let alone waterproof ones!). Before long the rain cleared away again and we were able to take our waterproofs off, but it wasn't exactly warm and sunny. Soon we were enjoying somewhat muted views west and south across a rugged landscape towards the sea ...</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">A more moody vista today ...</span></b></i></td></tr>
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Light showers came and went as we climbed the ridge and then traversed a rocky crest called the Serra San Tomaghiu, before giving way to a broader ridge leading up to the Bocca â Reta. By this time we had put our rain jackets back on, although they were about to come off again with blue sky ahead promising an upturn in the day ...</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i style="font-weight: bold;">That's most of the climbing done and dusted!</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">A gradual descent leads down to an overlook with a pleasant view over the renowned Lac du Ninu ...</span></div>
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<b><i>Lac du Ninu</i></b></div>
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... and then the path winds on down to the grassy plain itself ...</div>
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<b><i>Just about time for morning tea ...</i></b></div>
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The PRNC would prefer walkers to stay off the grass and the GR20 has actually been re-routed to hug the edge of the plain rather than cross it in order to try to reduce wear and tear on the grass. I guess this is a measure of how popular the GR20 has become. </div>
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As we followed the path around the grassy plain we enjoyed looking at small clumps of horses of various sizes and colouring ...</div>
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While on this particular day it seemed to be mostly horses enjoying the rich pasture, there was also a smattering of cattle ...</div>
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Some folks just couldn't resist the charms of the little ponies ...</div>
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It really is a lovely spot tucked in snugly between rolling hills, with the lake itself and little waterholes called <b><i>pozzines</i></b> scattered along the meadow ...</div>
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A little way further along the Bergeries des Inzecche are situated up on a bench, ideally placed to take advantage of sun from late morning ...</div>
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The route drops down out of this lovely hanging valley and back into the maquis for a bit, where at least one either anti-social or of below-average intelligence bovine was grazing ...</div>
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More delightful walking lay ahead, with the gorgeous surprise of Corsican Crocuses appearing as if by magic ...</div>
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<b><i>(This photo really IS worth expanding to appreciate the delicacy of the petals)</i></b></div>
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A bit of level and super-smooth track wound its way past some strange, stubby beach trees ...</div>
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<b><i>Are these Hobbit Beeches?</i></b></div>
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... and a gem of a pool harbouring a gorgeous little plant with yellow flowers ...</div>
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<b><i>(I'd be delighted if someone could name this plant for me ...)</i></b></div>
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The track gradually dropped past the Bergeries de Vaccaghja (sorry, no photo) and on a little further before finally climbing and traversing across to the Refuge de Manganu ...</div>
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<b><i>Dianne giving me the hurry-up so we can get on to lunch</i></b><br />
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It was reasonably sunny when we arrived and we were pretty happy about the prospect of lunch and a relaxing afternoon so we posed for a photo on the verandah ...</div>
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<b><i>Fresh enough to do it all again!</i></b></div>
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After posing for our photo the priorities were:</div>
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<li>book seats at the dinner table</li>
<li>put up the tent after finding the best spot we could</li>
<li>have lunch</li>
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And what a good place to have lunch! The guardian made a great onion omelette and it seemed like the distinct local brew <a href="http://www.paniercorse.com/produit/biere-pietra-a%20-la-chataigne-321" target="_blank">Pietra Ambrée</a>, (which contains chestnut flour) was made just for this moment ...</div>
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<b><i>Ahhh ... the simple pleasures of life!</i></b></div>
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And that concludes Day Six. A bit of an issue for Di with her hip but being relieved of a couple of kilos seemed to help a lot. The weather also improved as the day wore on, and the walking was just gorgeous, a lovely respite after five pretty hard days. And that was a good thing, because the guidebook suggested the next day was going to be quite <a href="http://andc.anu.edu.au/australian-words/meanings-origins?field_alphabet_value=301" target="_blank">hard yakka</a>. </div>
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Doughttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12724255802945843203noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2556783246652350110.post-10500379480781212022013-10-15T17:00:00.002+11:002014-07-09T18:17:11.906+10:00Day Five on the GR20 - Auberge U Vallone to Hôtel Castel di Vergio<h2>
<i>Simply A Glorious Day's Walk ...</i></h2>
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The statistics for the day ahead suggested that walking should a bit easier ...</div>
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<li>Distance: 15 km</li>
<li>Total ascent: 850 m</li>
<li>Total descent: 870 m</li>
<li>Time: 6 hours</li>
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... and the map shows that much of the climbing and descending will be fairly gradual, with just a few steeper pinches ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS2d2elcz2qjJXB6khYo7L7P7f9wAeAhDOO_UIxgB7yJ7QlAwzKBg5E2w_U7nCPg79TKmUcFdHweS76hIS5y1AQhStUYBF0Uu1WAhRGVRPP-WqgRFw3uAWMrG71dZHO0NAtdKwAhd8Z_OM/s1600/A+Day+5+map.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS2d2elcz2qjJXB6khYo7L7P7f9wAeAhDOO_UIxgB7yJ7QlAwzKBg5E2w_U7nCPg79TKmUcFdHweS76hIS5y1AQhStUYBF0Uu1WAhRGVRPP-WqgRFw3uAWMrG71dZHO0NAtdKwAhd8Z_OM/s640/A+Day+5+map.JPG" height="640" width="504" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>The map promises a pleasant day's walk</i></b></span></td></tr>
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As you can see from the map, the route from the bergerie starts with a, short easy descent into a hanging valley before beginning a long and almost imperceptible ascent.<br />
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<b><i>Petit dejeuner</i></b> started at seven. It was the usual mountain breakfast of a hot drink and bread and not much else so it didn't take long before we headed off, saying goodbye to the donkeys who were nuzzling each other in their makeshift corral below the refuge ...</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Donkeys doing donkey things</span></b></i></td></tr>
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The sun was just starting to colour the tops of the peaks but we were about to descend into the forest so wouldn't be able to enjoy its warming rays for some time to come ...</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>Down into the pines</i></b></span></td></tr>
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Twenty minutes later and down in the forest we could see that it actually wasn't going to be too long before we'd be coming back around and into the sun ...</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>Beautiful trees and sun kissing the peaks</i></b></span></td></tr>
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Unfortunately it was just at about this time that Di began to experience an aura, a condition which she suffers from very occasionally. It is normally accompanied by a headache and nausea and can be quite debilitating, requiring a couple hours of quiet rest. As the going at this stage was quite easy and we were walking in the shade she decided to try to push on at a slower pace. Luckily, after about twenty minutes the aura disappeared and the headache along with it, but the nausea remained.</div>
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Despite her malaise, Di managed to enjoy the walking through the forest - which was lovely - and then the gradual climb up towards the one col we had to pass through for the day. If forced to choose a single word to describe the norm in terms of footing throughout the GR I'd have to pick "stony". Not surprising really, if you think of Corsica as being like one giant lump of granite sticking up out of the middle of the Mediterranean Sea. This section of the route was no exception. In the next photo Di is starting to feel a little better and is catching up to one of the hikers that had been camped at Vallone overnight and slipped off a little earlier than us ...</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Nearing the Bocca di Foggiale</span></b></i></td></tr>
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After a little bit of descending and perhaps 550 metres of gradual ascent we reached our first major landmark for the day, the Bocca di Foggiale and then had to climb up a little way to about 2000 metres onto the shoulder of the cirque...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3RK253ayAkzufcwQkhJ_9cfnSWsZeQhC8RNl6r6XgDwCExwQCh2wfV584Wy1JG9wyD7GEf7_8pvxKjMvPwiWBZAO4yAI3O0tx2Ra7jYpWr9dyH0XGIcoxFgWn8cPJQ-htbRFj1YHa6kUS/s1600/G+Higher+still.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3RK253ayAkzufcwQkhJ_9cfnSWsZeQhC8RNl6r6XgDwCExwQCh2wfV584Wy1JG9wyD7GEf7_8pvxKjMvPwiWBZAO4yAI3O0tx2Ra7jYpWr9dyH0XGIcoxFgWn8cPJQ-htbRFj1YHa6kUS/s640/G+Higher+still.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Climbing open rocky slopes</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<div>
... before a bit of sidling gradually revealed a lovely panorama of open slopes to the south and west ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibnEaBYU9mhTxVyXGHqBUSC8osztn_J3wblDEzDvpEYNnNZEiDx7X3PGFGmDHjPUUefv6ZdIdlV-NfUHrDF8HMOcT6Zls6P-udYt97m-_Gbs6s-Rgucdt_-mtbTuZd76znXRVhvLpGi6lQ/s1600/H+Day+5+Pano1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibnEaBYU9mhTxVyXGHqBUSC8osztn_J3wblDEzDvpEYNnNZEiDx7X3PGFGmDHjPUUefv6ZdIdlV-NfUHrDF8HMOcT6Zls6P-udYt97m-_Gbs6s-Rgucdt_-mtbTuZd76znXRVhvLpGi6lQ/s640/H+Day+5+Pano1.jpg" height="226" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>Gorgeous open slopes</i></b></span></td></tr>
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<div>
As you can see, we were blessed with fantastic sunny skies. There was just a faint breeze blowing, which kept it from getting too hot. It would have been a very different experience in drenching rain and a howling gale so we count ourselves extremely lucky to enjoy such a great day out in the open.</div>
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After a little more traversing a remarkable sight appears. Capu Tafunatu looms up above and to the right: and it appears to have a huge hole right through the base of it ...</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh15bSScPX6Wn83mkSYrgdNu3hVhEdtpmWU2yLVaHHS7uUV_LPEoPhOf5yvtAPmV8ERDA3sNQxmtW5RToijyUvekgFaLFRTzllDAzk6PUkhehxu-CEiugH02iy4thWtXH6MOud16hUSLH5/s1600/I+Holey+mountain.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh15bSScPX6Wn83mkSYrgdNu3hVhEdtpmWU2yLVaHHS7uUV_LPEoPhOf5yvtAPmV8ERDA3sNQxmtW5RToijyUvekgFaLFRTzllDAzk6PUkhehxu-CEiugH02iy4thWtXH6MOud16hUSLH5/s640/I+Holey+mountain.JPG" height="420" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Is this a HOLEY mountain?</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<div>
Shortly thereafter the Refuge di Ciotullu di I Mori appears, tucked away at the head of the cirque ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQC74ehSTXiAXQa3LUuUWFSP_HQPSJI3UGwflk_0NtR1J1dJFgIVb7pPPhlvepwo3u3Ga1qABKk0z8hEnB3GhMDNNzjyvdidx8WU5yDStTNQJN82bUEsTIBKlTL8plmc8_BIi6MDl_IhE0/s1600/J+Refuge+de+Ciotullu+di+I+Mori.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQC74ehSTXiAXQa3LUuUWFSP_HQPSJI3UGwflk_0NtR1J1dJFgIVb7pPPhlvepwo3u3Ga1qABKk0z8hEnB3GhMDNNzjyvdidx8WU5yDStTNQJN82bUEsTIBKlTL8plmc8_BIi6MDl_IhE0/s640/J+Refuge+de+Ciotullu+di+I+Mori.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><b><i>Refuge di Ciotullu di I Mori</i></b></span></td></tr>
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<div>
Despite Di still feeling fairly nauseous after her aura had passed, we arrived at the refuge 2 3/4 hours after leaving Auberge U Vallone - which is about 3/4 of an hour quicker than what Paddy Dillon suggests in his guidebook. We were pretty happy about that and decided to have a bit of a break and take some refreshments at the refuge. The guardian must have been a bit surprised and not too pleased to see us this early, judging by his bearish response to my request for a couple of hot drinks - which I took to mean "Forget it, pal". (I guess that's understandable as it wouldn't have been long since his last overnight guests would have left, and he probably wouldn't have minded an hour or two to himself.) We were about to pack up and head off when he suddenly appeared with a tisane for Di and a coffee for me. We got our drinks and he got a tip, which meant we were all happy!</div>
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I'm sure you'll agree that the view from the verandah of the refuge is very beautiful, so we were pleased to be able to sit with our hot drinks and enjoy it ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5p7LljZe_fF9ixZ26G2zjvb-yndMeXnzZJBG6uqC16SnI39Wtn6QjFAFQNGdz856RW3USvDwQRPrUtF_3PGhTo463SEhr35rB5cElEP2SxCNvvvFbOqRjEH3vjkVusrsB_KLQ4MWu_lXt/s1600/K+Pano+from+refuge.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5p7LljZe_fF9ixZ26G2zjvb-yndMeXnzZJBG6uqC16SnI39Wtn6QjFAFQNGdz856RW3USvDwQRPrUtF_3PGhTo463SEhr35rB5cElEP2SxCNvvvFbOqRjEH3vjkVusrsB_KLQ4MWu_lXt/s640/K+Pano+from+refuge.jpg" height="324" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Sweeping views from the refuge</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<div>
If you expand the photo you should be able to see a hiker doing the GR south to north approaching along the path to the right. The route heads off in that direction and then along the ridge to the left and up to the scree-covered bump left of centre before descending into the valley. </div>
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The next photo is taken from the first little bump (visible just above the right-hand corner of the toilet block) and is looking back towards the refuge. Where the photo is taken from is about level with the refuge, which you can just make out if you expand the photo. (I have drawn a red oval around the refuge to help you spot it). Clearly visible also is the Bocca di Foggiale just right of centre ...</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVBc4P8TnDlD_L-Xy4fi3zzsvOmxPuBYOHm_xHGlvSlndIhw6MHAxCj2v_SS4vhV5EmUTzgwouHHUhyphenhyphenPt43rVSPdo16af-yK4ybi6ssk5oWEvZH7r9lLZ4uxnvRPhKt3l4mdgKoet0g2Oq/s1600/L+Looking+back+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVBc4P8TnDlD_L-Xy4fi3zzsvOmxPuBYOHm_xHGlvSlndIhw6MHAxCj2v_SS4vhV5EmUTzgwouHHUhyphenhyphenPt43rVSPdo16af-yK4ybi6ssk5oWEvZH7r9lLZ4uxnvRPhKt3l4mdgKoet0g2Oq/s640/L+Looking+back+1.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Refuge de Ciottulu di I More </b>and<b> Capu Tafunatu</b></span></i></td></tr>
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<div>
This sort of open, high-level walking where you can see your route coming and going is just magnificent. It really reminded us of a section of three wonderful days of walking along the Pyrenean Haute Route before you reach Pic du Canigou. (You can go<a href="http://dougandi.smugmug.com/TraversingthePyrenees/HRP-Section-5/Hospitalet-Banyuls-Sure-Mer/19074402_LznqnQ#!i=1483859481&k=45zPZqD" target="_blank"> here</a> if you'd like to see what I mean. Check out pages 4 and 5.)</div>
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Here is another view looking back towards the refuge from just a little farther along. If you expand the photo and look closely you should still just be able to make out the refuge ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwg7erScDGyFCijN5SBE8q6bjdWdYEDv-ORj-0CvGaRxt-yXy5hzlH8ViqV4kJt6fv9m0Sk1PO-G2vPQ20TK3mBYKoHG69LajxsRNmjLCjL8QjlZYgadOZZj0a6g6zl9HT9PJFAA_fPDna/s1600/M+Looking+back+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwg7erScDGyFCijN5SBE8q6bjdWdYEDv-ORj-0CvGaRxt-yXy5hzlH8ViqV4kJt6fv9m0Sk1PO-G2vPQ20TK3mBYKoHG69LajxsRNmjLCjL8QjlZYgadOZZj0a6g6zl9HT9PJFAA_fPDna/s640/M+Looking+back+2.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Haute Corsica at its best?</span></b></i></td></tr>
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Turn to the west and an equally fine view down to the Golfe de Porto is revealed ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-AVxJpGQfMusiEbwsD3yWq0o74uWwtcXch_srYrrDC73RkFtYM69xs6ctw81VyIvUpiZETJ1xH8nDKSjcC-G2u1MvCU89zj9hcuiP_CkgNdEIkg4IscgLlFnm8Tr25tWEmRjM4CIr47I8/s1600/N+Pano+towards+Golfe+de+Porto.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-AVxJpGQfMusiEbwsD3yWq0o74uWwtcXch_srYrrDC73RkFtYM69xs6ctw81VyIvUpiZETJ1xH8nDKSjcC-G2u1MvCU89zj9hcuiP_CkgNdEIkg4IscgLlFnm8Tr25tWEmRjM4CIr47I8/s640/N+Pano+towards+Golfe+de+Porto.jpg" height="308" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Looking west towards the Golfe de Porto</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<div>
The path eventually descends towards the head of the cirque where a ruined bergerie lies ...</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsRfXGZwxL7q9r_MDyOEAvQXCYdC80mTg2_qYV8pUq72ZrRpJ9KFGhjOs4ncF-4N_46Q7TbFnNhLHjlX5g_lMqdf8pRotYOrizTkal0Q0W7thS1eIPFt0S7oJkPDn08pv_x_R-x080qtBq/s1600/O+ruined+bergerie.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsRfXGZwxL7q9r_MDyOEAvQXCYdC80mTg2_qYV8pUq72ZrRpJ9KFGhjOs4ncF-4N_46Q7TbFnNhLHjlX5g_lMqdf8pRotYOrizTkal0Q0W7thS1eIPFt0S7oJkPDn08pv_x_R-x080qtBq/s400/O+ruined+bergerie.jpg" height="236" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Remnant of a previous era</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<div>
Looking back, Capu Tafunatu at 2335 m continues to dominate the skyline well down into the valley. If you expand the photo and look really, really closely you might also be able to make out the refuge ...</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwwtIjKDw4F8PcrwU0ujQXEGnJuRZbZSRqBWJKXuHTzcdb6RGXTyPmU7c5l5gbc4W8lFLz24zFPpApN_dh04gbzxv2eLg1QUjl11dYDrn-c-fGOMCTToDf4YHSma6HLNelU5meAmuRt4hu/s1600/P+Bottom+of+the+cirque.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwwtIjKDw4F8PcrwU0ujQXEGnJuRZbZSRqBWJKXuHTzcdb6RGXTyPmU7c5l5gbc4W8lFLz24zFPpApN_dh04gbzxv2eLg1QUjl11dYDrn-c-fGOMCTToDf4YHSma6HLNelU5meAmuRt4hu/s640/P+Bottom+of+the+cirque.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>Capu Tafunatu is a popular goal for local peak-baggers</i></b></span></td></tr>
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Eventually one's attention becomes more consistently focussed on the delights of the valley itself, like the gorgeous stream that starts off as a trickle interspersed with numerous small waterfalls and delightful little pools ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYW-P_F2mNykuNXU7oXGIJdn7n1zsVJ7hR4md86ZbQaQ4hXaXaNdS_tCtsKN4Q35XSPyW6N0m9zkb-mfo5Fskcq4M8W9RTXpvzc079TrB3BhS2QWAeh7cJpmYMMblyFgENIP0miQ5UdPOe/s1600/Q+Pool+in+stream.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYW-P_F2mNykuNXU7oXGIJdn7n1zsVJ7hR4md86ZbQaQ4hXaXaNdS_tCtsKN4Q35XSPyW6N0m9zkb-mfo5Fskcq4M8W9RTXpvzc079TrB3BhS2QWAeh7cJpmYMMblyFgENIP0miQ5UdPOe/s640/Q+Pool+in+stream.jpg" height="379" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>One of many lovely pools</i></b></span></td></tr>
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By this stage we had noticed that a normal pattern of high pressure mountain weather was in place, with cloud gradually building up during the day. It had been starting to cloud up just a bit earlier each day. The photo below, looking south and down the valley, was taken a little after eleven o'clock.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0g_rnniqZpXHr-1H8nuomby_tviVnZ46fBCHfi8Dqykd2oTLEDCvpGRs-unU9U2NZ-4tubJuK3Gw1cOdADvExpLIDCZjPD8GWA2SmLYR6JBqRH5no0ETt0tJV6fkTv-nMbwXeEVHmpqFi/s1600/R+Traversing+a+hanging+valley.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0g_rnniqZpXHr-1H8nuomby_tviVnZ46fBCHfi8Dqykd2oTLEDCvpGRs-unU9U2NZ-4tubJuK3Gw1cOdADvExpLIDCZjPD8GWA2SmLYR6JBqRH5no0ETt0tJV6fkTv-nMbwXeEVHmpqFi/s640/R+Traversing+a+hanging+valley.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>The upper part of the valley descends very gradually</i></b></span></td></tr>
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<div>
Looking back up the valley though it was still largely sunny and we seemed to have come a long way from the head of the cirque ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb8FI2mjYVJ6xIl0Qv-EE7eYKR0pzAMnafMiqUqqd4rn2vEClcwwSg1WPQh_uw6FhB6a6mKkG_jA90ieiQlIo8nNmAYg1zbtEANVhJbpsHP6OKkoex_OR29kFKUCEUowQ4Uye5_ZlAP9Fs/s1600/S+Still+traversing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb8FI2mjYVJ6xIl0Qv-EE7eYKR0pzAMnafMiqUqqd4rn2vEClcwwSg1WPQh_uw6FhB6a6mKkG_jA90ieiQlIo8nNmAYg1zbtEANVhJbpsHP6OKkoex_OR29kFKUCEUowQ4Uye5_ZlAP9Fs/s640/S+Still+traversing.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Looking up through the beautiful open valley towards the peak</span></b></i></td></tr>
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... but we still had about two hours of walking ahead of us before we'd be finished for the day. As the valley narrowed we were forced closer to the stream and the track became more rocky, eventually leading us across it via this bridge ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwUd0g5Fh2UIsGDFkq-qiMBXjs4uCfIDSzkZgZcRlyu3VbvFwKiHHLB-wOAX1r7egSwOc7_MC9HyzMaqmhaOxOEmYDCpIGD8zo3Xp0evdPx5Wusqmw_i8x2FZfCtnj3Lt7WP5asw9HcvRb/s1600/T+We've+crossed+the+stream.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwUd0g5Fh2UIsGDFkq-qiMBXjs4uCfIDSzkZgZcRlyu3VbvFwKiHHLB-wOAX1r7egSwOc7_MC9HyzMaqmhaOxOEmYDCpIGD8zo3Xp0evdPx5Wusqmw_i8x2FZfCtnj3Lt7WP5asw9HcvRb/s640/T+We've+crossed+the+stream.jpg" height="292" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Looking back at the bridge and walkers we passed a bit earlier</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<div>
Some traversing over rock slabs followed and the route wound its way amongst larger boulders for quite a while, zigging and zagging to such an extent that the red and white GR paint flashes were very useful and helped us largely follow the easiest route. In the next photo the route had become reasonably well worn again and easier to follow ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNzlG_bAgq-JUuNklblU7M1obd5EP-iLFkYT-E6EtYPheJ1DFdAhYEggSOr2rTI7aGeILukGSQsFi08fSaL05ks0zLaltGCdsR8bPhBN-begivf4Vxzbs7urwQAJECtP_LRH0DTP1X2m3x/s1600/U+A+rocky+wilderness.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNzlG_bAgq-JUuNklblU7M1obd5EP-iLFkYT-E6EtYPheJ1DFdAhYEggSOr2rTI7aGeILukGSQsFi08fSaL05ks0zLaltGCdsR8bPhBN-begivf4Vxzbs7urwQAJECtP_LRH0DTP1X2m3x/s640/U+A+rocky+wilderness.jpg" height="460" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">A rocky road</span></b></i></td></tr>
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... and then suddenly levels out into a broad footpath momentarily as it nears this fat Laricio Pine ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhofxP0XMVu3LP37xutcIMVxViQVAbF742soAT6URjIhCNtehmPE5b8JE7wkQki_AaJ9EDtkXKfvZkCy6jXp7wWkpXvsF5os10BisPjsONV21O_lGNijC9DcJa0WtAecg8mZdLcLmyQkj7f/s1600/V+Fat+Laricio+Pine.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhofxP0XMVu3LP37xutcIMVxViQVAbF742soAT6URjIhCNtehmPE5b8JE7wkQki_AaJ9EDtkXKfvZkCy6jXp7wWkpXvsF5os10BisPjsONV21O_lGNijC9DcJa0WtAecg8mZdLcLmyQkj7f/s400/V+Fat+Laricio+Pine.jpg" height="287" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>Momentary respite from a jumble of rock</i></b></span></td></tr>
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Around the next corner a large stand of taller pines with their characteristic flat tops appeared ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDvBjZF981376sLrhKLEWqibOrjWptVvY0EPuczJmR0e1wkGKdipkhHuskgrJUU1EpCm5I7mbPeX7uu-bc7SkVUJ4Yxs0j-W0NLMhm4bC45cmTeJrQy-9XD_qYBJz9dS9yfkeqx8Fi5hwC/s1600/W+About+to+enter+the+forest.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDvBjZF981376sLrhKLEWqibOrjWptVvY0EPuczJmR0e1wkGKdipkhHuskgrJUU1EpCm5I7mbPeX7uu-bc7SkVUJ4Yxs0j-W0NLMhm4bC45cmTeJrQy-9XD_qYBJz9dS9yfkeqx8Fi5hwC/s640/W+About+to+enter+the+forest.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Regal Laricio Pines</span></b></i></td></tr>
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Not far below one arrives at the first of The Bergeries de Radule. There wasn't anyone about at this one, but the tools of the cheese-maker showed that somebody couldn't be too far away ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixPzDO9_sXs4F4ka5Rg9C2Mc3x7TmBe1n8aTH672EyRQ93gYxkwK4qRbcAe2PvxJYIWXracbPieen11p8zPQNyulqTk9hiGez4J69SdScTuWJodOyiJ_jRKyMkP8swYpFMXZ3rdibMyzDK/s1600/X+Cheesemaking+tools.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixPzDO9_sXs4F4ka5Rg9C2Mc3x7TmBe1n8aTH672EyRQ93gYxkwK4qRbcAe2PvxJYIWXracbPieen11p8zPQNyulqTk9hiGez4J69SdScTuWJodOyiJ_jRKyMkP8swYpFMXZ3rdibMyzDK/s400/X+Cheesemaking+tools.jpg" height="302" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>Tools of the cheese-maker</i></b></span></td></tr>
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... and numerous rock chambers like this one, used for storing and ageing cheese, dot the hillside ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBhxvODFapnO1i2qUVyP_4tzEXlwG1sC7YcaJ2zQ4-WwBeNnyAC4UOaZOBYGDyFChmf8TtdRc-kDynDtSc6vBE63q1PvmjU3VIqq27MLzkWoChdxQiR1q4JG4t2LxC5eYrDZQGh9XL6NQO/s1600/Z+Cheese-cooling+chamber.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBhxvODFapnO1i2qUVyP_4tzEXlwG1sC7YcaJ2zQ4-WwBeNnyAC4UOaZOBYGDyFChmf8TtdRc-kDynDtSc6vBE63q1PvmjU3VIqq27MLzkWoChdxQiR1q4JG4t2LxC5eYrDZQGh9XL6NQO/s400/Z+Cheese-cooling+chamber.jpg" height="283" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Cheese storage</span></b></i></td></tr>
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A little further down the hill is the main Bergerie de Radule, a popular place for those walking further up the valley and day-hikers coming up from the ski resort at Castel di Vergio to stop for a drink and a snack, or buy a cheese made on site ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV4GWnY6XgTty_98rphxFWG3YBCDdU_NQ3P4GuVyN9svEgyB4p7x73ull2BrSYTQmSF_M_x34Pk5il8qqUD2x5AMRU9B3cZmu4igG0h9KDGl2CpPCuW-gyrATS-93hLnrPEq9D9lhD0T4N/s1600/Y+Bergeries+de+Radule.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV4GWnY6XgTty_98rphxFWG3YBCDdU_NQ3P4GuVyN9svEgyB4p7x73ull2BrSYTQmSF_M_x34Pk5il8qqUD2x5AMRU9B3cZmu4igG0h9KDGl2CpPCuW-gyrATS-93hLnrPEq9D9lhD0T4N/s640/Y+Bergeries+de+Radule.jpg" height="460" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Bergerie de Radule</span></b></i></td></tr>
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Coming suddenly to "civilisation" like this, thought we must be getting close to our objective for the day, although it did seem too early. Well it was - too early to be arriving, that is. We actually had a lot of traversing at about the same level ahead of us, and wouldn't finish walking for about another hour and a quarter. </div>
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The rest of the day's walk was fairly unremarkable but we did see our first flock of Corsican goats grazing in the wild along the way ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXeGDUa0tHr92-fp7S0e5tHHQ5hLzCgOZAwUh2IpAjckJu_kTAIoEx5FMsgIgq1B32V3usQD5QGa7CNH6SvuOMYp3UWml1_SHqkC-8dHdQuk-u5TBSsZBCcz4eEoSPJaPQK1HjhAZ_BQes/s1600/ZZ+Goats.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXeGDUa0tHr92-fp7S0e5tHHQ5hLzCgOZAwUh2IpAjckJu_kTAIoEx5FMsgIgq1B32V3usQD5QGa7CNH6SvuOMYp3UWml1_SHqkC-8dHdQuk-u5TBSsZBCcz4eEoSPJaPQK1HjhAZ_BQes/s400/ZZ+Goats.jpg" height="242" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Goats ranging freely along the GR20</span></b></i></td></tr>
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In keeping with the pattern we'd been noticing each day it had clouded over quite significantly by the time we were nearing the end of our the stage. The forest was an interesting mix of deciduous trees and pines, with various types of shrubs scattered throughout. There was quite a lot of evidence of wild boars rooting around in places too. We were getting pretty intent on arriving and hopefully getting a room in the hotel, having a hot shower and putting our feet up for the day. (We knew we could pitch our tent, but we were hoping there would be a room free.) </div>
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Although not generally as demanding as the previous four days, we were feeling a bit tired - especially Di after having experienced her aura earlier in the day. I did take one photo to try to capture the mix of vegetation in the forest and the approach of autumn reflected in the birches starting to turn colour ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOnK2tyzlsGrsQ8gM8rqVYO7qBZigKtgIkKxvOoMNDTPt_1cBxumSX_ilfHDEzhXXLXOBCE9hnuENoi-eJi43HfbM7IIb7P1T3owBRfkHOesKklSHHDG1kbobViizazicbsC1WbhlFNJkT/s1600/ZZZ+Trees.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOnK2tyzlsGrsQ8gM8rqVYO7qBZigKtgIkKxvOoMNDTPt_1cBxumSX_ilfHDEzhXXLXOBCE9hnuENoi-eJi43HfbM7IIb7P1T3owBRfkHOesKklSHHDG1kbobViizazicbsC1WbhlFNJkT/s640/ZZZ+Trees.jpg" height="442" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Trudging on through the last stretch</span></b></i></td></tr>
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Finally we reached the Hôtel Castel di Vergio - exactly six hours after departing Auberge U Vallone -and went in to enquire about a room ... <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOHdEZrsWTK8tvSiTMuN0j3Y0xOneRLpzh__2OJFrdjypPurJrQcumrHhBvUs98C44CFMkZPLxQYVqCBdXm6uDSylaguTG1KbMMv0NBouWqQ4FTzuIUyzR8HL6fr5m7EOJ2RR1FSpx_zzX/s1600/ZZZZ+Castellu+di+Vergio.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOHdEZrsWTK8tvSiTMuN0j3Y0xOneRLpzh__2OJFrdjypPurJrQcumrHhBvUs98C44CFMkZPLxQYVqCBdXm6uDSylaguTG1KbMMv0NBouWqQ4FTzuIUyzR8HL6fr5m7EOJ2RR1FSpx_zzX/s640/ZZZZ+Castellu+di+Vergio.jpg" height="226" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">Hôtel Castel di Vergio</span></i></b></td></tr>
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The funny thing was that when I asked if they had any vacancies both the owner and the other person on duty burst out laughing. I guess they had well and truly passed their peak period, and most of the hikers elected to stay in the camping area adjacent to the hotel. We were very pleased to be able to make our way immediately up to a room and settle in. A major bonus was that we were given a room with access to a huge, shared verandah very useful for hanging up all our washing! </div>
Doughttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12724255802945843203noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2556783246652350110.post-68850426288232215712013-10-13T20:05:00.001+11:002014-07-09T18:16:22.791+10:00Day Four on the GR20 - Haut Asco to Refuge U Vallone<h2>
<i>CIRQUE de la SOLITUDE!</i></h2>
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<i>Note: This page might load a bit slowly if your internet connection isn't very flash.</i></div>
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<i>To do justice to the stage most of the images are a bit larger than on the earlier</i></div>
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<i>pages. I hope you will see why I've made the exception in this case.</i></div>
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This day is all about the (in)famous Cirque de la Solitude. Now that I've said that, as I sit here revisiting the day I am stuck for words. Maybe an extract from Paddy Dillon's guidebook might get me fired up again. His first sentence is really rather hyperbolic: "<i style="font-weight: bold;">This is the day that many walkers on the GR20 dread</i>". </div>
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I don't really get this. Why would you be doing the GR - or at least this stage - if you are in <a href="http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/dread?s=t" target="_blank">dread</a>, unless Dillon is referring to the archaic meaning of "to hold in respectful awe"? It seems to me that going hiking should be about appreciating the beauty of nature, perhaps along with challenging oneself physical and sharing the adventure with others when it suits.</div>
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This is certainly a challenging stage, and we were excited about it. It is physically challenging but also goes through some terrain that is both beautiful and awesome. Our friend Michel walked the GR20 last year. His mantra for the <i><b>Cirque de la Solitude</b></i> is "<i style="font-weight: bold;">start early, start early </i>and <b><i>start early</i></b>", mostly so that you minimise the risk of having other people knock rocks down on you and to try to avoid getting stuck behind slower hikers on the chained sections.</div>
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Another good reason for making an early start this day was that the forecast was just a little dodgy. It suggested that there could be some rain later so we really wanted to get through the cirque good and early to minimise the chance of having to deal with wet and slippery rock.</div>
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In his guide Dillon goes on to say "<i>While there is no doubt that the Cirque demands respect, and needs to be treated with care and caution, the difficulties of the traverse tend to be overstated. it is true that if all the helpful chains were removed, it would indeed be a rock climb, but only of a moderate grade.</i> <i>With all the chains, and even a short metal ladder, it is no more arduous than any of the scrambles endured so far, just more sustained</i>." What I think he does underplay a bit is the descent from the cirque to the Auberge U Vallone, but more about that later.</div>
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Here are the stats for the day's hike ...</div>
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<li>Distance: 9 km</li>
<li>Total ascent: 1000 m</li>
<li>Total descent: 1000 m</li>
<li>Time: 6 1/2 hours</li>
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... and what the route looks like on the map:</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">The pen scribble is our stop</span></b></i></td></tr>
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Before I go any further with my take on the day, I'd like to insert a wonderful Youtube video by Sam Dolman. He walked the GR20 in June this year and passed through the cirque when there was still a bit of snow at the entrance, on the descent and higher up at the exit, making it quite a lot more challenging and exciting than what we experienced on the 6th of September. I'll understand if you can't be bothered reading the rest of this post or looking at my pictures after seeing the artistry Sam has put into this video. Without further ado, here it is ...</div>
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Okay, if you're still reading after watching that great little video then I must be doing something right! With a pretty big day ahead of us, and Michel's words ringing in our heads we set off just as it was starting to get light. We could see the headlamps of a few other hikers over at the refuge but there wasn't any sign of anybody ahead of us on the track, which we were pretty happy about. If you had a close look at the map above you might have concluded that the day starts with a long, gradual ascent. Well you would have been right. In fact the route goes initially up along a cleared ski run before ducking into some nice forest for a kilometre or so and then emerges onto open ground covered in rock and low shrubs. </div>
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Knowing we had 1000 metres of vertical gain ahead of us we adopted a good and steady pace, which was easy to maintain on the even gradient and good track. In the picture below we have emerged from the forest after about twenty minutes of walking and are looking up towards the head of the valley. The route climbs right up the one long valley before arriving at a small high cirque and is farther than it looks ...</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">These are the last of the trees before reaching the bocca</span></b></i></td></tr>
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About a quarter of an hour later the light was starting to become reasonable for photos and I took this image of the low peaks flanking the valley to the northwest. Although it's a bit hard to capture, the stillness of the early morning, the textures of the rock and vegetation and the quality of light combined to create a beautiful, calming atmosphere. If you look closely you can make out a neat little spire poking up like a totem pole just left of centre ...</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>Portrait of a morning</i></b></span></td></tr>
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Looking back down the hill at this point in time (7:03 a.m.) gave a sense of progress. The trail snakes off down the scrub-covered slopes towards the valley below. Haut Asco is tucked behind the toe of the ridge coming in from the right ...</div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">... and in another quarter of an hour we are nearly at the head of the valley. At this stage we realised that there were people visible along the track below, at about the spot where I took the previous photo. There are actually four hikers in the photo but you probably won't be able to pick them out ...</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"> We were soon at an idyllic, sheltered area just near a big rock wall that looked like it had potential for some great technical rock climbing. (It was too deep in shade to get any reasonable sort of photograph.) It also looked like a great place to camp, and the parks people had posted a sign reminding hikers that camping was not allowed ...</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFyZORo-wObteB9RJcvQgwz0VP9svu97OA_GOi7Ph3LhQfBW2mXsB2iZjRsf_k-DQFqRLdpdKVJsq0FIITS8X1M_8AS-WaW_fPR13-I7J9JAhyphenhyphen6j2SHMI2p9cxsqkBpPoCl79tsRVsO8SU/s1600/F+No+camping.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFyZORo-wObteB9RJcvQgwz0VP9svu97OA_GOi7Ph3LhQfBW2mXsB2iZjRsf_k-DQFqRLdpdKVJsq0FIITS8X1M_8AS-WaW_fPR13-I7J9JAhyphenhyphen6j2SHMI2p9cxsqkBpPoCl79tsRVsO8SU/s400/F+No+camping.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Despite the sign, there was evidence that people <i style="font-weight: bold;">had</i> camped, and fairly recently too. Soon, we were in a chaotic, rocky landscape ...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz9Xdipf_Nq1N_fagGgx4LhICw5GNiL1UezO3DeA2OtGaXLyA1eEazXYKQAt-qSkaBaNE40vAlDhlfwcnnt9kcwCFZzmlkkrycCdbFqkYSJLokKUfYfnXfFj9uEYRqDmN0iSrRPnQUMDsk/s1600/G+rocky+maelstrom.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz9Xdipf_Nq1N_fagGgx4LhICw5GNiL1UezO3DeA2OtGaXLyA1eEazXYKQAt-qSkaBaNE40vAlDhlfwcnnt9kcwCFZzmlkkrycCdbFqkYSJLokKUfYfnXfFj9uEYRqDmN0iSrRPnQUMDsk/s640/G+rocky+maelstrom.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
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.. the cirque below the ridge and bocca that leads to the Cirque de la Solitude. The route goes pretty much straight ahead. (If you expand the photo you will see a few of the GR markers.) This bit of the route was steeper and involved a lot of easy scrambling amidst the traversing. It was quite good fun and built up our anticipation of what lay ahead in the main agenda over the ridge. It's now 7:43 and we are pleased with the progress we've made in the hour and a half or so that we've been on the route.</div>
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Another ten minutes or so had us up on al little platform just below the top of the cirque. Time to catch our breath for a minute and appreciate the sun just starting to warm the peaks on the shoulder of the valley we are leaving behind ...</div>
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Less than twenty minutes later we arrive at the entrance to the Cirque de la Solitude, the Bocca Temasginesca at 2183 metres, some 760 metres above where we started the day ...</div>
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We were a little surprised to come across an British couple just starting the cirque themselves, as we hadn't noticed any sign of them as we'd been climbing up towards the head of the valley and the entrance to the cirque. I took the following photo of Di climbing down towards them less than three minutes after the one above. If you look closely, you can see the fixed chains even at this early stage ...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq15SHb9awBEd5AKMnBlqUxWSGVWP1gh3R7N9EOv-HAik813pemz-WDZlKTmp9t6MhDiWx2AM4wzk4fDZGzONg3EB7AsN6y9JzMlYgW3D3TL9RtTC5fXUUQiIZPXTIJJVYlUHUqvZWoAIq/s1600/J+Into+the+cirque.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq15SHb9awBEd5AKMnBlqUxWSGVWP1gh3R7N9EOv-HAik813pemz-WDZlKTmp9t6MhDiWx2AM4wzk4fDZGzONg3EB7AsN6y9JzMlYgW3D3TL9RtTC5fXUUQiIZPXTIJJVYlUHUqvZWoAIq/s640/J+Into+the+cirque.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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If you're confident and have a bit of experience on this sort of terrain - and you want to move quickly - it's best not to use the chains except for the most precarious moves. Yes, the chains provide a sense of security as they are nice and bulky to grab on to, but they are only as good as the rock to which they are fixed anyway. The big problem with the chains in terms of maintaining stability and moving fluently is that, unlike the rock to which they are fixed, they swing around as you weight them. We've done a bit of this sort of thing before and really enjoyed the variation of moving on the steep and rocky terrain. In the next photo we've passed the two Brits and are looking back up the chains past them and towards the entrance to the cirque ...</div>
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The rock generally was really solid and felt great to latch on to, and the setting was pretty atmospheric. The next photo of Di downclimbing is perhaps my favourite of the whole trip ...</div>
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A little farther down there was a wonderful, solid - if somewhat steep and irregular - natural staircase, complete with handrail ...</div>
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Just before the end of the descent and before the route traverses across towards the escape from the cirque, where just enough sun and water created the right conditions we were surprised by these lovely foxgloves ...</div>
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By the time we reached the level at which the traverse across the cirque began we'd been on the go for just under two and a half hours and decided to have a quick snack before pressing onwards. We didn't want to linger as we knew we still had to get up and out the other side. In the next photo Di is back underway and on the path leading across the cirque. If you expand the photo to full size you should be able to see a GR marker just behind Di's left foot and a couple more along the traverse line ...</div>
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We are headed towards the huge rock tower dominating the landscape as the route escapes the cirque just this side of the that tower via a long series of chains. Most of the vegetation you can see in the photo above consists of tough, thorny shrubs but in a few cool damp niches ferns shelter ...</div>
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You would probably like to see some detail of the chains leading out of the cirque. Sorry. We were too busy getting out of the cirque as quickly as we could to stop for photos. The reason: just as we were approaching the chains we discovered a large group of about a dozen hikers on a guided trip laboriously descending the chains. The rock was dry and the terrain not difficult, so we opted to climb the face about 10 metres to the left of the chains rather than have to wait until they all came down. </div>
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This proved to be an excellent move on two counts. Firstly, behind the first group were another two groups being guided through the cirque. They were moving very slowly and we would have been held up for a very long time. Secondly, - and thankfully - we were out of the firing line. When we were about two-thirds of the way up the ascent out of the cirque a young lass knocked loose a rock about the size of a soccer ball. To her credit, she did call out - but not with the urgency the situation dictated. The rock bounced and narrowly missed the head of another young woman about fifteen metres lower. Shortly afterwards we were right out of the bottleneck and glad of it.</div>
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After reaching a bit of a shelf, to our surprise the route continued to climb and then traverse. In the next photo we are well out of the confines of the lower cirque looking back towards the impressive rock tower that dominates the cirque as you traverse towards it. Di has managed to just sneak into the right hand edge of the photo ...</div>
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Looking back down another five minutes later and four hikers that we passed when we went around the chains have come into view ...</div>
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Here's a zoomed in shot of them in case you couldn't make them out. There are three hikers in the bottom right of the photo and another dressed in red looking back down into the cirque (I wanted to include this so you get a bit of a sense of the scale.) ...</div>
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Just over ten minutes later we reached the Bocca Minuta at 2218 metres and had a bit of a pause before starting down the other side. Very quickly we were into quite different terrain. It was still very rocky but this time we were descending slabs, not unlike the long series of slabs that we ascended on day two in the Spasmati Gorge. </div>
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The route descends quite steeply, almost exclusively on solid rock pretty much all the way to the Refuge de Tighjettu which is over 500 metres below the Bocca Minuta. After the 1000 metres of ascent to the Cirque de la Solitude then up out if it, along with the nervous energy expended, this descent was a bit technical in places and quite strenuous, so you still really needed to be paying close attention to what you were doing. It would be quite easy to come unstuck with potentially very nasty consequences. </div>
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This photo looking back up towards the refuge gives some idea of the rockiness of the terrain and it's like this all the way down from the bocca ...</div>
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We had thought of stopping at the refuge for a drink and a bite to eat but it seemed pretty deserted as we came by it. Besides that we could smell the acrid stink of plastic burning and smoke from a little sheltered area of to the left as we neared the refuge, so it seemed maybe the guardian was off burning waste so he didn't have to cart it out or pay for it to be transported by helicopter.</div>
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The next photo was taken about five minutes on from the refuge, where we spotted a gorgeous little pool which seemed to suggest we should treat our legs to a cool bath after the excellent work they'd done over the previous four and a half hours ...</div>
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... and it didn't take much to seduce us. Here Di is just drying out after dangling her lower legs in the crystal clear mountain stream ...</div>
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If you looked closely you might have noticed the bruise on her right knee. That was the result of her tripping in the dark stairwell of our hotel in Bastia - with her pack on her back - two days before embarking on the hike. The hotel's lift was just big enough for one person without a pack, so we'd taken the stairs down from our second floor room as we were leaving to go to Calvi. Di missed the last step, which was on a bit of a diagonal, and landed her full weight, with her pack, on her knee. She was in agony and we thought, briefly, that our walk on the GR20 was going to be over before it started. Luckily she's a tough old bird ...</div>
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Tucked in next to this gorgeous little pool were some dwarf birches providing a lovely touch of green ...</div>
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We still needed to descend almost 250 metres before being finished for the day and were starting to get hungry so we didn't linger long at our little oasis and were pleased to arrive at the Auberge U Vallone, five hours and ten minutes after leaving the Hôtel le Chalet at Haut Asco ...</div>
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The auberge has tents for hire and also has a huge tent with bunk beds that is effectively a basic gîte d'étape. It is situated a bit above the auberge below a great backdrop of craggy peaks ...</div>
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The first thing we did was to have some lunch and then up went the tent. Another advantage of arriving early is that you get the pick of the campsites that aren't already occupied by tents for hire. Here we've got a nice flat spot just near the refuge ...</div>
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Shortly after we arrived from the north one of the guardians arrived from the south with a couple of heavily laden donkeys in tow. Bread, wine, saucisson and other provisions were quickly unloaded before the donkeys were cut loose to graze ...</div>
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(I love this photo for the range of technology on show, from the centuries-old carting methods, </div>
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to the folded up tents to the laptop on the table.)</div>
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In conversation with one of the guardians of the auberge who was busy dismantling tents when we arrived we discovered that they'd hosted 114 people in the gîte and tents scattered around the site, and fed dinner to 102 of them in the auberge. (When there are large numbers at the refuges and auberges they do two shifts for dinner). We concluded that some of them must have been the three guided groups we'd encountered descending into the Cirque de la Solitude, and some others - like us - must have been heading south.</div>
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We were a little concerned that it would be crowded again that night, but thankfully this didn't happen. Many of the walkers must have stopped at Refuge de Tighjettu which was a bit of a bonus. We were glad to be a little lower down and farther along the route as it had clouded up as we were completing the descent to the auberge. </div>
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The auberge nestles into a lovely little shelf just above a gorgeous stream and surrounded by pines. After lunch, a shower and a bit of a rest we wandered down to the stream to have a look at a quiet little pool formed just below the auberge ...</div>
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... and enjoyed the panoramic view back up towards the auberge ...</div>
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... before having a satisfying dinner at the auberge and yet another early night after a fantastic day out. </div>
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And that's about it for Day Four of the GR20. We knew the next day's walk should be a little easier than the previous four, and that after it was done we'd be over halfway through the first section of the route and one-third of the way through the entire journey. Despite being a couple of fairly tired hikers our confidence was growing that, barring any major mishaps or a serious downturn in the weather we would indeed be able to finish the hike. </div>
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For the past few days we had been running into an older gentleman from Avignon but the name of Alain. Although he had even less English that we did French, we'd managed to have a reasonable sort of chat in the afternoon at Haut Asco. Alain had done lots of stuff in the Alps over the years and seemed to really know what he was about. He would set out each day a little bit ahead of us and we'd invariably pass him an hour or so into the day's walk. But Alain invariably turned up - and not last either. The same thing applied on this day. An hour or so before dinner, he arrived pretty much unfazed. We weren't sure exactly how old Alain was, but were pretty sure he was quite a bit older than us. We reasoned that if he could keep going, so could we.</div>
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Doughttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12724255802945843203noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2556783246652350110.post-1998709973052255122013-10-12T14:02:00.001+11:002013-10-23T13:16:56.135+11:00Day Three on the GR20 - Refuge do Carozzu to Haut Asco<h3>
<i>The Spasmati Slabs, a High Traverse and a Long Descent</i></h3>
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The guidebook says: "<b style="font-style: italic;">This is another tough day's walk and there are no easy alternatives"</b> and that when you are on your way down to the ski village at Haut Asco "<i style="font-weight: bold;">the descent is very steep and rugged, taking longer than you might imagine to complete</i>". There are also some warnings about the slabs being mostly unprotected, and that they can be very slippery when wet. We weren't really concerned about the slabs as we have some climbing background and the weather looked good. The long descent didn't tickle our fancies much though as we both have had some issues with our knees.</div>
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The stats for today's stage:</div>
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<li>Distance: 6 km</li>
<li>Total ascent: 860 m</li>
<li>Total descent: 710 m</li>
<li>Time 5 1/2 hours</li>
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The idea of six kilometres taking five and a half hours seemed a bit improbable, so we were curious about the terrain ahead. We thought the high traverse (also mentioned in the intro) might be a bit technical, and perhaps the descent into the Spasmati Gorge could be a bit tricky too.</div>
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Roused well before first light by other campers keen to get under way, we thought we might as well make an early start too. After a quick breakfast we set off just after six with our headlamps switched on. As you will see, our puny head torches weren't up to the task of showing us the route, but before we go into that, here is the map for today:</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>Day 3: Deeper into the Mountains</i></b></span></td></tr>
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Shortly after leaving the refuge, the most obvious track heads down to the right which is actually the easy way up to Carozzu and is used by day hikers - and the guardians for reprovisioning the refuge. Unfortunately, yes we did stray in that direction and headed down the wrong way for about a hundred metres before I said to Di that I hadn't seen any red and white markers, only yellow ones. We backtracked to where the route went. It would have been much easier to find in daylight ...</div>
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Just after we got back on route a randonneur moving quite quickly joined us. Together we searched for the way in the half light. I was struck by how lightly equipped he seemed to be and how quickly he was moving so I asked him (in my pidgin French), "Combien jours pour la route prendrez-vous?" </div>
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He answered, "Normalment, six jours." </div>
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'Wow!', I thought, 'Six days!' So I then asked, "Combien lourd est-ce que votre sac?"</div>
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His reply: "Six kilos".</div>
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A real mountain athlete doing his thing. Just great! Unfortunately this bloke's route-finding skills in the dark weren't much better than ours, and we followed him down the wrong route - following intermittent but wrongly-placed cairns - for about another hundred metres before he turned back. Together we found the correct route. He pushed on but we decided to wait until it was light enough to at least see the trail markers, as the guidebook describes the descent into the gorge as "steep and rugged". After only about fifteen minutes we felt we could see well enough to set off again, but as you can see from the (rather grainy) photo of Di crossing the suspension it wasn't yet fully light ...</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Spasmati Gorge Suspension Bridge</span></b></i></td></tr>
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Although most of the Spasmati Slabs are unprotected and would be pretty tricky in the wet, there are a few short sections where chains or cables have been installed. Here is one example where a cable leads off around a corner and a GR marker clearly shows the way ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD05BEbJRaQNcyytd90O_Deq0kbrgyhXQ8L5qYcrBzyU99LXsXH27z2w83IWTW6tlNjVbA9YhnZSHob7YdPaxvyinklk37TNn_OZ06FodRutRYogMnvQni_mJnizs_IGFR_ySb1KaxfO9Q/s1600/C+three.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD05BEbJRaQNcyytd90O_Deq0kbrgyhXQ8L5qYcrBzyU99LXsXH27z2w83IWTW6tlNjVbA9YhnZSHob7YdPaxvyinklk37TNn_OZ06FodRutRYogMnvQni_mJnizs_IGFR_ySb1KaxfO9Q/s640/C+three.jpg" width="478" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>What a Cheerful Girl!</i></b></span></td></tr>
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The gorge and the slabs were fantastically atmospheric and I was rather sorry that we didn't have fuller light so I could make better photos. We have always found that we like to get underway early as we enjoy hiking in the morning when it's a bit cooler. This approach allows a bit of a safety margin should the weather turn nasty and also longer rest stops should one choose to exercise that option. Besides that, it's pleasant to spend at least some of the afternoon in camp relaxing and enjoying the sun. And, as far as the GR20 is concerned, the earlier you arrive the better chance you have of booking a spot at the dinner table in the refuge each night. However, the price we paid on this trip was often not being able to get great photos early because of the deep shade in places so I have to apologise for the lack of definition in some of today's photos.</div>
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It's always a joy in such inhospitable and rocky terrain as this gorge to encounter isolated clumps of flowers clinging to a tiny crevice and finding moisture and nourishment to survive ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL_v8KtHgzupT6VD3mxupionlDfSdQ98AE_gF9IrMR4lwSdeVgRQ4xQ1mrPsKQtnF57-uhHtsLThd0Xq2XyW__nr_RjaOZAU3dLFfKy3_ydTJm1UvT7aVq7gH1ievbXq9YR7jqF-erd7V5/s1600/D+three.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL_v8KtHgzupT6VD3mxupionlDfSdQ98AE_gF9IrMR4lwSdeVgRQ4xQ1mrPsKQtnF57-uhHtsLThd0Xq2XyW__nr_RjaOZAU3dLFfKy3_ydTJm1UvT7aVq7gH1ievbXq9YR7jqF-erd7V5/s640/D+three.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>Unexpected Joy</i></b></span></td></tr>
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The slabs were brilliant. They were good and dry for the most part, allowing one to ascend pretty comfortably and confidently. The interesting thing was how long they stretched on up the gorge.</div>
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In the places where we came across hardware installed to provide a measure of safety we were able to ignore them completely. However, this is definitely not a place you'd want to be were it icy ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFYIDQ4_niTWcJiNvIqmbOK7YW_I9FcjhVPW26OMD0036aPEUZiWFcj3Xg0tn_Vm312QMrfEX9hKsnoMlDrX3eiH_YE2UeCsntC5zS1q2_8UOEEqIXFLbnl-n9q0JgPAFfirlCfKnxnx9o/s1600/E+three.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFYIDQ4_niTWcJiNvIqmbOK7YW_I9FcjhVPW26OMD0036aPEUZiWFcj3Xg0tn_Vm312QMrfEX9hKsnoMlDrX3eiH_YE2UeCsntC5zS1q2_8UOEEqIXFLbnl-n9q0JgPAFfirlCfKnxnx9o/s640/E+three.jpg" width="478" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">The Slabs Continue for a Surprisingly Long Way</span></b></i></td></tr>
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The next photo shows the view back the way we've come. Unfortunately the light in the sky and the deep shade in the gorge itself made it difficult to really showcase the terrain at a level it deserves.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9JTwkR2_U3cKuQznKpUsqesAdUh72Cvoe5jDBK11kZMR3NxpCXAfr-zyrx0bRaod7_8tH85Uwc9mVcoZkv-px7_tGeMZMvFA6mAeargS3ly-Mqjn4YRW1MozkYdWRb96UIJMFADHMkD93/s1600/F+three.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9JTwkR2_U3cKuQznKpUsqesAdUh72Cvoe5jDBK11kZMR3NxpCXAfr-zyrx0bRaod7_8tH85Uwc9mVcoZkv-px7_tGeMZMvFA6mAeargS3ly-Mqjn4YRW1MozkYdWRb96UIJMFADHMkD93/s640/F+three.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Granite Planet</span></b></i></td></tr>
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I'd estimate that of the day's 860 metres of ascent, perhaps half of that was on the slabs themselves. Climbing them was quite a sustained effort but at the same time, thanks to the great footing, a real pleasure. In the next photo we are starting to get near the end of the slabs. If you look closely you can see a distinct straight line on the rock, which is actually a bit of fixed chain in case of icy conditions ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd8Hp3sJoJ_PgEY8T2gwAFQoZVeRW1-EBWuQ3R7sIv4SKt1Mfn9ZnJBXwmyBYW-MVRyOwYMBfr2YWQVLwSYh04Flq3a7tgcSIGBQ01GrMg3rbIgBaW-SYQl-j4B9VZR0ySPHVEhz9SEp5A/s1600/Slabs+too.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd8Hp3sJoJ_PgEY8T2gwAFQoZVeRW1-EBWuQ3R7sIv4SKt1Mfn9ZnJBXwmyBYW-MVRyOwYMBfr2YWQVLwSYh04Flq3a7tgcSIGBQ01GrMg3rbIgBaW-SYQl-j4B9VZR0ySPHVEhz9SEp5A/s640/Slabs+too.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Fantastic Walking in the Right Conditions</span></b></i></td></tr>
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At the top of the slabs there was an elevated rocky shelf where a young couple were doing a bit of stealth camping. It was a beautiful spot, and I could hardly blame them but if many walkers did the same the route would become a real mess. There are very few places along the GR20 where camping would be hospitable in any case and, sadly, many walkers don't seem to think it necessary to dispose of their toilet waste in a way that doesn't impact on the experience of others. Hopefully that is something that will improve over time.</div>
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In the next photo we have left the slabs behind and are making a rising traverse towards the gully that leads the way out of the cirque. It's still pretty early as we've been making pretty good time. The exit from this valley lies pretty much directly above Di's head and slightly to the right, behind the ridge that stretches down from the right of picture ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDUJ_M8rhNIlYMCrtMuIT1NZen_n98YybTM2J0wBdCSYCxN61C6Z7BUOiuYKxM5U4tWkNolRGvYh49q4zRk8YSvDJYlPCEC0PLCmF9WMKoQ9fBlrIf4Ha1PGWyEdwcFXqUciTPhD8AOFs5/s1600/H+three.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDUJ_M8rhNIlYMCrtMuIT1NZen_n98YybTM2J0wBdCSYCxN61C6Z7BUOiuYKxM5U4tWkNolRGvYh49q4zRk8YSvDJYlPCEC0PLCmF9WMKoQ9fBlrIf4Ha1PGWyEdwcFXqUciTPhD8AOFs5/s640/H+three.jpg" width="478" /></a></td></tr>
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As we continued higher we were delighted with a view back towards the coast which had come into view behind a series of ridges. Calvi, which is only twelve kilometres from our starting point in Calenzana shown below, with a ferry just entering port. It seemed like another world ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2F5wKjeVKQvAvB83jAxkOi3hCDzH_y-CkjzvV7bX2r9ifKO9XlveAPjMePTjnnGU2fXQpccPNoV125PwhWmwEaImivoss8MDPk6JU8Av2I4NZ-eliyvkD4bmE9tVelCElWUHEkoE3xbVv/s1600/I+three.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2F5wKjeVKQvAvB83jAxkOi3hCDzH_y-CkjzvV7bX2r9ifKO9XlveAPjMePTjnnGU2fXQpccPNoV125PwhWmwEaImivoss8MDPk6JU8Av2I4NZ-eliyvkD4bmE9tVelCElWUHEkoE3xbVv/s640/I+three.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Calvi: A World and Three Days Away</span></b></i></td></tr>
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From another vantage point a little further up a beautiful ridge stretched away to the south and we wondered if that was where we would be traversing once we reached the col ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCbudTeBaz662XddweKoFJ2p3WpvVavM67YQP4nhsFUB-skEkJjQJpf9XuGda-vLNn5J7otsaAx5nI-AWb44KhevkSuwnJ0BFqi2UyP2PKSl6zSHum7pVb6Uoa1zBPMxwRHhy4E4DsMIZI/s1600/J+three.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="356" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCbudTeBaz662XddweKoFJ2p3WpvVavM67YQP4nhsFUB-skEkJjQJpf9XuGda-vLNn5J7otsaAx5nI-AWb44KhevkSuwnJ0BFqi2UyP2PKSl6zSHum7pVb6Uoa1zBPMxwRHhy4E4DsMIZI/s640/J+three.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
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Up near the head of the valley you pass a small tarn, the Lac de la Muvrella. Further on into the wide gully leading up towards the col there was a bit more shelter and moisture for plant life ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGvRorPDi7_puDRN0s9qsyZ6D3-TuQV7HgSgQ4QgX6in4oT-tWv5uIULiJlKIl9saNKgenb4naOLvK_OelLxtoSh5Alj4yPEdzc-Ea_VLkYERq4XTooN0kCWQPdVcn9sQMoIG84y_XmWJn/s1600/K+three.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="376" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGvRorPDi7_puDRN0s9qsyZ6D3-TuQV7HgSgQ4QgX6in4oT-tWv5uIULiJlKIl9saNKgenb4naOLvK_OelLxtoSh5Alj4yPEdzc-Ea_VLkYERq4XTooN0kCWQPdVcn9sQMoIG84y_XmWJn/s400/K+three.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
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Although shorter, like on the first day almost all of the ascent for this day's hike came in one continuous lot. We were nearing the col but I decided we might as well stop for a little rest and some energy ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzT-b8RdjFfQ4FuLOivN0GELqRL085rny70NaoQmb3188Fs9LwnkSkiRJ0KJK3f6v1ytgaGEEgjEWbT21kPQfApq-WqhmB5Tuay2qoPoC0eaR-CwdFsbErn8EBwFXU8hMyhiJI83uttPMe/s1600/L+three.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzT-b8RdjFfQ4FuLOivN0GELqRL085rny70NaoQmb3188Fs9LwnkSkiRJ0KJK3f6v1ytgaGEEgjEWbT21kPQfApq-WqhmB5Tuay2qoPoC0eaR-CwdFsbErn8EBwFXU8hMyhiJI83uttPMe/s640/L+three.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>Nearly at the top of the day's climb</i></b></span></td></tr>
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Finally we reached the col and came out into the sunshine, pleased with the rapid time we were making. No doubt optimal conditions - cool, no rain or wind, dry rock - helped enormously. </div>
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As you can see from the photo below the col is 2003 metres, which is about 733 metres above Refuge Carozzu. With the initial descent into Spasmati Gorge, that means we've ascended about 800 metres since crossing the suspension bridge ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSDFbuoSyu2rmCOgC-5a2U1EcqIkBgmty3IkHeErcS92-8HGv6m_bycJZdbvoXCcMSyeEDJrtxoQCOpLQrKdKnL3pl7WNgh1604aqrZc239q6qFZ2CCPhwFl6DVDOqr_bjPIClddBIJsNT/s1600/M+three.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSDFbuoSyu2rmCOgC-5a2U1EcqIkBgmty3IkHeErcS92-8HGv6m_bycJZdbvoXCcMSyeEDJrtxoQCOpLQrKdKnL3pl7WNgh1604aqrZc239q6qFZ2CCPhwFl6DVDOqr_bjPIClddBIJsNT/s400/M+three.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">At last: sunshine!</span></i></b></td></tr>
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Through the gap we went. We imagined from reading the guidebook that we'd head pretty much straight down towards Haut Asco but were surprised to be led around a high and interesting traverse to another col where we were then able to see Haut Asco far below. There was quite a lot of fun scrambling initially across short rocky slabs and pinnacles to deal with then a long, loose descent. At this point we started to meet quite a few hikers on their way up into the mountains, many of them just out for the day.</div>
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Like the guidebook says, the descent takes longer than you think it might. Eventually we got into some fantastic large Laricio Pines. In the photo below I'm looking back up towards Di and a couple of day hikers on their way up into the mountains ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQbkmsrnpRZrwBty4AXqJj7ytZB-yadwfi2jlwb4774xL7aN9urJX9HnOb5FEHJYSqpolCxLfGcWVrdZtpjT7VYr_26ZA5HHHSiiOOYMt69d1XxKt_wsxfh4nosSLV9274oaQi85jDT54X/s1600/N+three.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQbkmsrnpRZrwBty4AXqJj7ytZB-yadwfi2jlwb4774xL7aN9urJX9HnOb5FEHJYSqpolCxLfGcWVrdZtpjT7VYr_26ZA5HHHSiiOOYMt69d1XxKt_wsxfh4nosSLV9274oaQi85jDT54X/s640/N+three.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Back down into the pines</span></b></i></td></tr>
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Haute Asco is a funny sort of place. There is a refuge that doesn't serve food because of the presence of the ski resort and hotel. Another building has a little snack bar and apartments that seem only to be occupied during the ski season. We had booked into the hotel because we thought it would be great to have a big comfortable bed and a hot shower as well as a meal at the hotel. </div>
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As it turned out, we were pleased to find that it had only taken four hours to get to Haut Asco from the time we left Refuge Carozzu, despite a couple of minor misadventures with route finding in the dark. After this, the third day on the route and accumulating over 2000 metres of descent, our knees were starting to complain a little but otherwise things were looking good.</div>
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The downside of arriving so early was that we couldn't get into our hotel to have the anticipated shower for a few hours. Somewhat bemusing was the offhand manner of the staff on duty, who didn't seem at all interested in providing much in the way of service. It was a bit puzzling but no big problem. We managed to order and enjoy coffees on the verandah while writing postcards.There was a panoramic view across the parking lot ...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG30jA5Y3C6-3EBkSe3fGsDs2vAbhbzgA7V0B2a9EIO2-OjqjCOJItcH8kGWgD-k1ijvelGsHn7HbbS4ge8z940JJKfyc5FCmJ9aRoGubY8FVZEblqzSFbflEh6rRp3T3KKnvUHr49lg3Y/s1600/O+three.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="204" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG30jA5Y3C6-3EBkSe3fGsDs2vAbhbzgA7V0B2a9EIO2-OjqjCOJItcH8kGWgD-k1ijvelGsHn7HbbS4ge8z940JJKfyc5FCmJ9aRoGubY8FVZEblqzSFbflEh6rRp3T3KKnvUHr49lg3Y/s640/O+three.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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... and up the left of where the route would take us the next day ...</div>
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Here and there a larger Laricio Pine stood out amongst the forest, perhaps a remnant from a previous time when the area had been logged ...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLV-uorP4SRlN17cFCD7Pein9vI5-3py95vecxrXuSutVH_Y0l4jaG_zwAA1Bp6vcYdD7EHpWYABrMY15HIguuASjfTmd9d3iBt4YwFSZ8GrxYRK7m39DfmyovA7hRXOyUi6ElRCxpWA27/s1600/R+three.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLV-uorP4SRlN17cFCD7Pein9vI5-3py95vecxrXuSutVH_Y0l4jaG_zwAA1Bp6vcYdD7EHpWYABrMY15HIguuASjfTmd9d3iBt4YwFSZ8GrxYRK7m39DfmyovA7hRXOyUi6ElRCxpWA27/s640/R+three.jpg" width="478" /></a></div>
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Some of the hikers we'd passed along the way started to arrive. The small group that had arrived before us ordered lunch including a fantastic-looking salad, which we discovered had the title "<b>Salade GR20</b>". We were then interested - and impressed to see them pick up their packs after completing their meal and set off for the next stage. A young couple who had passed us in the traversing section but that we'd subsequently passed on the descent because the girl had a problem with one of her knees arrived, had lunch and also set off for the next stage. Because we had the hotel booked and we'd been warned to make a really early start on the next stage, we weren't tempted to join them. Instead, we ordered lunch ourselves, intending to take our time and enjoy the afternoon. After seeing what the Salad GR20 looked like, we couldn't go past it and a bottle of rosé to wash it down ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5VZgyl48Mf4V4J8yqo_kEAW8L4RPf7XDD8tSp0u0ZSmmNKRf3CLAza1RIx1w1wiA5Wv_xaaQRbT3rqS7_rdUtW6HdJTFCEkGw_U0LFb1w3CI0zzt2rH7pWpL8ALX5Gfl2VfWod8dXzkpd/s1600/S+three.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5VZgyl48Mf4V4J8yqo_kEAW8L4RPf7XDD8tSp0u0ZSmmNKRf3CLAza1RIx1w1wiA5Wv_xaaQRbT3rqS7_rdUtW6HdJTFCEkGw_U0LFb1w3CI0zzt2rH7pWpL8ALX5Gfl2VfWod8dXzkpd/s400/S+three.jpg" width="298" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>One of the bonuses of hiking in Europe</i></b></span></td></tr>
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After moving our packs up into our hotel room and having a shower we took a stroll along the start of the next day's route to check we could easily follow it if we started as day was breaking, which was our intention. A late afternoon snooze preceded dinner, which was fantastic. Even more fantastic was the service of the waiter who'd been so offhand when we'd arrived earlier in the day. He was amazing - zipping around the many tables, deploying plates of food and picking them up as efficiently as humanly possible, the whole while cheerful as you could imagine. Amazing stuff. We wondered if he - and the others who had also been a bit disinterested when we arrived but were now quite solicitous - had just dragged themselves out of bed before we got there or whether they just really enjoyed the more energised environment of the restaurant. We went to bed that night with the knowledge that the next couple of days looked to be spectacular and quite challenging before letting up a bit on day six.</div>
Doughttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12724255802945843203noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2556783246652350110.post-76779277485107462292013-10-10T16:05:00.000+11:002014-07-09T18:14:12.810+10:00Day Two on the GR20 - Refuge d'Ortu di u Piobbu to Refuge de Carozzu<h3>
<i>The GR20's Queen Stage?</i></h3>
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This was perhaps the most spectacular day on the GR20, hence the heading I have proposed. Here are a few brief extracts from Paddy Dillon's introduction to this stage: "<i><b>a tough day's walk, especially after the exertions of the first day. It involves walking round a rugged shoulder to reach a valley ... climbing to the Bocca Piccaia (where) the view is magnificent ... full of spires and towers of rock. The route traverses round the flanks of the mountains ... it becomes quite difficult with numerous short rocky ascents and descents. There is another chance to enjoy exceptional views before a long, steep and stony descent to the Refuge de Carozzu. (If this day's walk sounds too tough, refer to the next section for the low level alternative.)</b></i>"</div>
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Statistical summary:</div>
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<li>Distance: 8 km</li>
<li>Total ascent: 750 m</li>
<li>Total descent: 1050 m</li>
<li>Time: 6 1/2 hours</li>
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Here's the route on the map:</div>
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Before we hit the trail I took this snap from our tent site. If you click on the photo to expand it - and are still sharp-eyed enough - you should be able to make out campers packing up and readying themselves for the day ahead:</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>Another morning in the mountains ...</i></b></span></td></tr>
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The day started with a rising traverse through some lovely birch forest which was just starting to turn colour. We were somewhat surprised to see such a concentration of deciduous trees at these altitudes (over 1500 m), but then we're not very familiar with hiking in these regions. In the photo below, just ahead of Di is a young Irishman who is walking on his own. There were a number of solo hikers, but this was not really a safety issue because there were so many people on the trail.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>We love walking in the early morning light</i></b></span></td></tr>
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The initial part of this day's walk went through forest for quite a while. In the photo below we are about to traverse around to the left, cross a creek and then traverse the shoulder of another hill. As you can see, the track is quite stony which was pretty much the norm throughout the GR20 - apart of course from when we were just on rock, which was quite a lot of the time!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPzWJB86nbmS74GSeLKwl_5aSvQMCLTDR_hN6rVEZKDW8fcyMp2qCn08WJPHl00WwprxT5ukdporTiyYBI5WU0_WYyloWPqfMzPL70h4La5Ntz5qmBi2o7mczI88tjcerDblOhK_vGq1QJ/s1600/C.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPzWJB86nbmS74GSeLKwl_5aSvQMCLTDR_hN6rVEZKDW8fcyMp2qCn08WJPHl00WwprxT5ukdporTiyYBI5WU0_WYyloWPqfMzPL70h4La5Ntz5qmBi2o7mczI88tjcerDblOhK_vGq1QJ/s400/C.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Anticipating the sunshine ahead ...</span></b></i></td></tr>
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Just before leaving the forest we came across the ruins of an old shepherd's hut on the flanks of a mountain, situated at the head of a valley which provides access to the world below.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Autumn is on the way ...</span></b></i></td></tr>
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The walk through the forest provided a lovely prelude to the spectacular hours ahead. This is one of the first views that greeted us shortly after the previous photo was taken:</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSi-r2Bh47s8hFtaJWoTLlKkrcHFT4kJDH8B-ltdT9n-Kncx2vlhQW8sj6VQCNDdptXwX7DDoH5PEMAiHJP-rOJq9lULwgcfUlGBveZo_IFG5ZpPRQuZDMnFPWNIMQoBgU0Pc3qLGcGq14/s1600/E.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSi-r2Bh47s8hFtaJWoTLlKkrcHFT4kJDH8B-ltdT9n-Kncx2vlhQW8sj6VQCNDdptXwX7DDoH5PEMAiHJP-rOJq9lULwgcfUlGBveZo_IFG5ZpPRQuZDMnFPWNIMQoBgU0Pc3qLGcGq14/s640/E.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>Stunning spires, mountain massifs and dramatic gorges everywhere ...</i></b></span></td></tr>
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On into this beautiful, chaotic landscape we went. Di leads on across the shoulder of a mountain towards who knows what ahead. We were constantly amazed and often surprised throughout this stage - and during the next few days - as to where the route led us. In the panorama below Di can see where we are going as there is a hiker ahead ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMfd-EqvFMah3Dg0k51KCHF0O_SUHnmlh0dZcod6bNu-ArHFqTyL8fDaBL_LVMjRqecXizF7o7BxG9Awb39rHqXH2PtjDt_M65INJv2BY9vAomGEg9c0_EGHCf1c67W8X7vBxD4dF3oN4h/s1600/F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMfd-EqvFMah3Dg0k51KCHF0O_SUHnmlh0dZcod6bNu-ArHFqTyL8fDaBL_LVMjRqecXizF7o7BxG9Awb39rHqXH2PtjDt_M65INJv2BY9vAomGEg9c0_EGHCf1c67W8X7vBxD4dF3oN4h/s640/F.jpg" height="186" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">Around the shoulder ... and then where?</span></i></b></td></tr>
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A brief pause on the ridge ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAbCjx8AnVGiy6Dlp05n3G0On_9agseh_p2XE-zj6SL6FaxN-M9QgXL9Zg7YvHty6WyQZY88VYi6b3bi6HmDo8nMVUXWJPVvd7hqBQWmiUZOfHQ6LYAOhiA-1YSw7n0kFfKzrQFlLwiZzP/s1600/G.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAbCjx8AnVGiy6Dlp05n3G0On_9agseh_p2XE-zj6SL6FaxN-M9QgXL9Zg7YvHty6WyQZY88VYi6b3bi6HmDo8nMVUXWJPVvd7hqBQWmiUZOfHQ6LYAOhiA-1YSw7n0kFfKzrQFlLwiZzP/s640/G.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">A tiny figure tossed on a sea of rock</span></i></b></td></tr>
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... before more sidling and then, surprisingly, a gradual traversing descent before heading steeply down to a gap on the next ridge ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4XMYQjoGiGL0sJMee1wnBoSZU88n_SFM8OXGmjl6yuUDm_i9iRknjrriKG4OwN7Mj1ES6QTYjpHH9hHV9aLUfYUhp9hb1bWjA0xt4yn1yIogqUzmcj_lUOs91R7qSc8lOlF17xRFmLjfY/s1600/H.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4XMYQjoGiGL0sJMee1wnBoSZU88n_SFM8OXGmjl6yuUDm_i9iRknjrriKG4OwN7Mj1ES6QTYjpHH9hHV9aLUfYUhp9hb1bWjA0xt4yn1yIogqUzmcj_lUOs91R7qSc8lOlF17xRFmLjfY/s640/H.JPG" height="384" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">A bit of sunshine before heading back down into the shadows</span></b></i></td></tr>
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After the descent and around the next ridge there was another bit of descending through a loose and rocky chute then more traversing across a gully and some very prickly vegetation. At the point where the next photo was taken we have just missed a hidden slot and have to reascend the track about 10 metres. (You can see a couple of trail markers above.) If you look closely at the photo you should be able to see five hikers behind us, coming down the chute and across the gully.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjs7OpsvqbIvivlcJCRMgELcAHGpTNP07zK4zVLZ0Nfy_cHRuj7n_ZLCcciKyejDviSEyqFMiu4UBLlW6zEFZnPgNWatSuB5VjN8ThTtPifAQlLURv2nKrvWxu7c7fAoHFeGNQRrQ7GlVk/s1600/I.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjs7OpsvqbIvivlcJCRMgELcAHGpTNP07zK4zVLZ0Nfy_cHRuj7n_ZLCcciKyejDviSEyqFMiu4UBLlW6zEFZnPgNWatSuB5VjN8ThTtPifAQlLURv2nKrvWxu7c7fAoHFeGNQRrQ7GlVk/s640/I.JPG" height="378" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Tracing the way through</span></b></i></td></tr>
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This day and the next few reminded us very much of hiking in the <a href="http://www.australiangeographic.com.au/journal/traversing-tasmanias-western-arthurs.htm" target="_blank">Western Arthurs</a> - and, to a lesser extent, the Eastern Arthurs - in Tasmania's <a href="http://www.parks.tas.gov.au/?base=3801" target="_blank">Southwest National Park</a>, but on a much bigger scale. The geology is different: The Arthurs are made up of Quartzite while all but the southern fringe of Corsica is a mountain of Granite rising up off the floor of the Mediterranean Sea. It wasn't so much the mountains themselves but the amount of scrambling and intricate route-finding in both places that really struck us.</div>
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Around the next ridge we were presented with another view of stunning spires and we wondered where we were heading next ...</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">Lots of potential for rock climbers to make first ascents!</span></i></b></td></tr>
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The route weaved around a ridge and then across towards a peak. You can see where the track zigs and zags up a vegetated scree slope towards the shoulder ...</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Great views of the route ahead</span></b></i></td></tr>
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The Bocca Avartoli leading through a small gap provides the key to getting around the ridge ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDCGFSxjr3dnglsOOuH-FNdU8bPnS5vYQxhET_7VyEsJFhN_godnjyaOFzW9xQ_iHo9giUq0vUWY9BP0_k6Hw9q3PSxkhsmCAnOgu5q88VP58AFWbhCl_BYJwEMVCwcL0VlP4azTdXO32b/s1600/L.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDCGFSxjr3dnglsOOuH-FNdU8bPnS5vYQxhET_7VyEsJFhN_godnjyaOFzW9xQ_iHo9giUq0vUWY9BP0_k6Hw9q3PSxkhsmCAnOgu5q88VP58AFWbhCl_BYJwEMVCwcL0VlP4azTdXO32b/s400/L.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>A beautiful patina of lichen coats much of the rock</i></b></span></td></tr>
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<div>
... and then there is a little scramble up through a slot ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRJCwdT1RNW5qrpAbzZbQZwPM_vyi3h3KVhC5Ige7t2PwqczWCuJ4xGpa9lm5FhEO5rOftNXEy-zioTyEHvOdSFgD-JQGvdnHqR6pdelFK7zvP9G61lrEQ3_XJfwWKy-IKKcGNC-izxxor/s1600/M.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRJCwdT1RNW5qrpAbzZbQZwPM_vyi3h3KVhC5Ige7t2PwqczWCuJ4xGpa9lm5FhEO5rOftNXEy-zioTyEHvOdSFgD-JQGvdnHqR6pdelFK7zvP9G61lrEQ3_XJfwWKy-IKKcGNC-izxxor/s640/M.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">It's not as steep as it looks!</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<div>
Seemingly against all odds, tucked away in a shady, sheltered and damp spot high on the mountain side was a pocket of vegetation where this Foxglove was still flowering ...</div>
<div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFF6_rkaK13vL2ID45gn_zpq4xuhD53rIbAtY1LAas8tR9OLaAjBiG34vfMIIRy4j09s-S9RKk5fLOihUPvCHTqPkH2xSwwr2RW6cT4Yysuje4iEQmFPPTdLhlONLAYMXljHbMN27r0i40/s1600/N.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFF6_rkaK13vL2ID45gn_zpq4xuhD53rIbAtY1LAas8tR9OLaAjBiG34vfMIIRy4j09s-S9RKk5fLOihUPvCHTqPkH2xSwwr2RW6cT4Yysuje4iEQmFPPTdLhlONLAYMXljHbMN27r0i40/s400/N.jpg" height="400" width="301" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Delicacy finds its place</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<div>
... and then we were back in the sunshine on a shelf looking out at a stunning vista ...</div>
<div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg83_TTGogu-z3I2N4L_rbqroXWy-wbIBFntLhSwY70MKzIHYi9oipatSWyoDju1qJHpCCfGDWHReIAx1HjyWxNU95sw8Dw5239PHcmJQmMa2wtR_EAD6SS-MKqf0Xp5FbJkXoBPlgd2mD4/s1600/O.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg83_TTGogu-z3I2N4L_rbqroXWy-wbIBFntLhSwY70MKzIHYi9oipatSWyoDju1qJHpCCfGDWHReIAx1HjyWxNU95sw8Dw5239PHcmJQmMa2wtR_EAD6SS-MKqf0Xp5FbJkXoBPlgd2mD4/s640/O.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">You've seen this picture before!</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<div>
... before entering a steep and loose descent ...</div>
<div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZydpWUAuSfF0gYRFMbiTK8qoe0PeiZDtFDXgdc00qyqjU4rBG1zfv5FckmBVNwaURkWkDHrH7VbPZhW62N7dsbs7OIuolDjRF3hX7PjM_FDA3u1MdLPBVza4T-Rya3KBGv0Dca7JS586a/s1600/P.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZydpWUAuSfF0gYRFMbiTK8qoe0PeiZDtFDXgdc00qyqjU4rBG1zfv5FckmBVNwaURkWkDHrH7VbPZhW62N7dsbs7OIuolDjRF3hX7PjM_FDA3u1MdLPBVza4T-Rya3KBGv0Dca7JS586a/s400/P.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Watch your feet!</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<div>
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... which led to the head of a large cirque, another magnificent vista ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFDLRfEk47gokws1JjgEPnY-PSM7JksEjmbTmDDhmCiG22BS3iHgbfUbZdWhF3Ru3_aP8apSDZDRViuP9yvxrC_AGOsbGH_TCwKQgR7PL2DwAmdDnQ5UtTwiAc39nM8gKWnwTPDVmJ67t5/s1600/Q.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFDLRfEk47gokws1JjgEPnY-PSM7JksEjmbTmDDhmCiG22BS3iHgbfUbZdWhF3Ru3_aP8apSDZDRViuP9yvxrC_AGOsbGH_TCwKQgR7PL2DwAmdDnQ5UtTwiAc39nM8gKWnwTPDVmJ67t5/s640/Q.jpg" height="372" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Fancy a short side-trip?</span></b></i></td></tr>
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The track continued around the shoulder to the left and around to another shelf which held some small Laricio Pines and one real beauty, with a view through to another cirque with some fantastic spires. The route will take us down into that cirque beside those spires.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMH4cOKgjmwNnaVt9Lh7_ynyYaUMRWQuFxte2T7FYEl__GtNfv54s60ksaTTZsP9ueotU7-xaxt1BlYVzLiPO2A_VuxTmOFyUZ2X8s9lBxzCoy3h4_LCV9QCRpwLjMNrgAu7fKzi9JWT1A/s1600/R.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMH4cOKgjmwNnaVt9Lh7_ynyYaUMRWQuFxte2T7FYEl__GtNfv54s60ksaTTZsP9ueotU7-xaxt1BlYVzLiPO2A_VuxTmOFyUZ2X8s9lBxzCoy3h4_LCV9QCRpwLjMNrgAu7fKzi9JWT1A/s640/R.JPG" height="414" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">Just wonderful walking!</span></i></b></td></tr>
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Eventually we were on the descent to Refuge Carruzo. Again, deciduous forest reached high up into the cirque leading us to believe that we were closer to the refuge than was actually the case ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeTgn3MUGI7_XUUY1qbZCuJszy-UHtEN-rtZQ7Qjiu0Wb6Zw9rYLXmSZ7AhyphenhyphenJomhwBWjOdw7F2l3ASDJq63nlNYHYHfLX85AAXtQ2gkW7GtPLUaTQmm1gLt9CoKNMHxQ6wwUOQ2FjWWzKH/s1600/S.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeTgn3MUGI7_XUUY1qbZCuJszy-UHtEN-rtZQ7Qjiu0Wb6Zw9rYLXmSZ7AhyphenhyphenJomhwBWjOdw7F2l3ASDJq63nlNYHYHfLX85AAXtQ2gkW7GtPLUaTQmm1gLt9CoKNMHxQ6wwUOQ2FjWWzKH/s640/S.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Down into the forest we go</span></b></i></td></tr>
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It was a lot farther down than we initially thought but we hadn't actually done much descending up until this point. Most of the day had been spent traversing, either gradually climbing or descending with the occasional short steep section. It had been hot work mostly out in the sun at elevations between 1500 and 1800 metres and we'd been drinking lots. We were almost at the refuge in the next photo where Di is drinking the last of her water ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUVnYrvP0Y2pOHppK30Vu4KgRKV4jx4wm_mp0iugK1CuRwFmF9D_QXTw02F9FY4qCu_SfUi7_GuNQyMOvyVRi-D5dgfKoh5OxBQYXm62qotAq72bSwu5swlkwhkITW661tPpsPiUjTdIJF/s1600/T.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUVnYrvP0Y2pOHppK30Vu4KgRKV4jx4wm_mp0iugK1CuRwFmF9D_QXTw02F9FY4qCu_SfUi7_GuNQyMOvyVRi-D5dgfKoh5OxBQYXm62qotAq72bSwu5swlkwhkITW661tPpsPiUjTdIJF/s400/T.jpg" height="400" width="317" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Thirsty work</span></b></i></td></tr>
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The notes I made a little later as we were having lunch and a beer on the sun deck of the refuge says "<b><i>A long and loose descent brought us to the refuge exactly five hours after leaving Piobbu. Quite an unrelenting day for old knees but absolutely stunning terrain</i></b>".</div>
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The refuge is tucked into quite an idyllic spot where they can make good use of the sun's power ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX6Xe0laPejIIHkzV0r4cQkk9aAoRgn9ecZ_jlSaGqzIn2u_7D3gYIBL8ca6I1omac5z9LkjW6vR6OSzKEgBti5U3YVIqpQQobQqxn6qEex3vseXVekeiqXqOh8WATN_6B8d9pnCu1NVTG/s1600/U.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX6Xe0laPejIIHkzV0r4cQkk9aAoRgn9ecZ_jlSaGqzIn2u_7D3gYIBL8ca6I1omac5z9LkjW6vR6OSzKEgBti5U3YVIqpQQobQqxn6qEex3vseXVekeiqXqOh8WATN_6B8d9pnCu1NVTG/s640/U.jpg" height="294" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Surrounded by Granite</span></b></i></td></tr>
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Once we'd set up the tent at pretty much the exact spot where the photo above was taken we went around to the front of the refuge to see what was on offer for lunch. They had plenty of menu boards up from which we could choose ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicYBZpqiQIU0199Vl1fOD5BXWezKpLSkvIC_1FwfZZCJzl_tq5UsF47UtdtNkOmfiwUzMfusEAGxlFhnF75daY08Hy0vCLnqBOjBoGOyM-nm7yi9Czm922CnAFpF8XdLPkNowrvJ0VYBqb/s1600/V.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicYBZpqiQIU0199Vl1fOD5BXWezKpLSkvIC_1FwfZZCJzl_tq5UsF47UtdtNkOmfiwUzMfusEAGxlFhnF75daY08Hy0vCLnqBOjBoGOyM-nm7yi9Czm922CnAFpF8XdLPkNowrvJ0VYBqb/s640/V.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">What's for lunch?</span></i></b></td></tr>
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By the way, here's a chance for one of my diversions: if you look closely at the "RGE DE CAROZZU" sign, you will notice that it gives the altitude as 1270 metres. That's exactly the height of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Wellington_(Tasmania)" target="_blank">Mt Wellington</a>, which sits proudly above our home city of Hobart and is a haven for hikers, mountain bikers and rock climbers. So far we've avoided the scourge of a cable-car despoiling the peace and tranquility of recreating on "The Mountain".</div>
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Back to Corsica and the GR20: the guardians of Refuge Carozzu were probably the more entrepreneurial of all those looking after refuges and bergeries along the route, having quite a selection of goodies to eat and drink - perhaps partly because access to the outside world was reasonably easy via a short liaison trail. They even catered for those with sore muscles - or who might be anticipating sore muscles with massage oil for sale, as well as essential oils and bug spray:</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLCKRwOajC89k3BTUX-vqJOY9oN_Z_UuMoLhM_pbfzUVgTWsIeNXEwJa8yHehY1LQQs1dLkFzCQdnCbA3_lvFXiOvebrz_BP-WR0_pWsxgHWFloOQZi2JEeiXSmJJymrE4EK1bxVtuhOZD/s1600/W.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLCKRwOajC89k3BTUX-vqJOY9oN_Z_UuMoLhM_pbfzUVgTWsIeNXEwJa8yHehY1LQQs1dLkFzCQdnCbA3_lvFXiOvebrz_BP-WR0_pWsxgHWFloOQZi2JEeiXSmJJymrE4EK1bxVtuhOZD/s400/W.jpg" height="292" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Massage anyone?</span></b></i></td></tr>
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Quite clever, and later on the traverse I was really wishing we'd bought a bottle of the massage oil as sadly none of the other refuges had thought to do the same.</div>
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Yet again we had a tent site that gave a great view. Here's a photo of the same peak that is in the background of the photo with Di drinking the last of her water, from a slightly different angle ...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlXgYgaJaL8K42EWkIFy0CE0mHOAKnkREGkoMqLDx8ZCP-gC9dc2c9CUiagG-0JrnGy5i17Z8RiqFIg6WssfvIvrIr4gP72rUNP95k0Hmr0l_fFu78lpGblLNJFbMzpt6ATbye2B0HlOkD/s1600/X.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlXgYgaJaL8K42EWkIFy0CE0mHOAKnkREGkoMqLDx8ZCP-gC9dc2c9CUiagG-0JrnGy5i17Z8RiqFIg6WssfvIvrIr4gP72rUNP95k0Hmr0l_fFu78lpGblLNJFbMzpt6ATbye2B0HlOkD/s640/X.JPG" height="416" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Looking out through the tent window at Refuge Carozzu</span></b></i></td></tr>
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There is a lot of hype around the GR20, and I'll say at this point that we ran into many folks who perhaps shouldn't have been on the route but wanted to knock off the "toughest grand randonnée in Europe". A lot of up and down, pretty rough paths requiring a fair bit of agility and exposed scrambling in places combine to make for a very challenging adventure hike. Despite a lot of experience in varied conditions we weren't sure we'd be able to finish the route ourselves when we set off from Calenzana. Now we were starting to feel more confident as we'd completed the stage an hour and a half quicker than the suggested time in the guide (after also being quicker on the first day, despite pacing ourselves up the "unremitting" ascent). </div>
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A couple of very hard stages loomed in front of us. If we could get through those we thought we'd have a chance of completing the journey. However, with knees getting a little sore from the long descent to Refuge Carozzu we were still uncertain whether our bodies would hold up for another thirteen days. Anticipating another tough day ahead we hit the sack early.</div>
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Doughttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12724255802945843203noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2556783246652350110.post-13258426223919370442013-10-08T18:35:00.000+11:002013-10-23T13:16:20.838+11:00Day One on the GR20 - Calenzana to Refuge d'Ortu di u PiobbuThe guidebook says "the first day's walk on the GR20 can be a shock to the system ... the ascent is unremitting - uphill all the way. You climb higher than anywhere in Britain, then climb even further".<br />
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Here's a summary of the statistics for the day's hike:<br />
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<ul>
<li>Distance: 12 km</li>
<li>Total ascent: 1550 m</li>
<li>Total descent: 235 m</li>
<li>Time 7 hours</li>
</ul>
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A photo taken of a small section of the map we carried for the northern section shows the route. Note that contour intervals are 50 metres.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>Day one: Calenzana to Refuge d'Ortu di u Piobbu</i></b></span></td></tr>
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Here are the notes I made on my phone after the day's walk:</div>
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<li>steady climbing initially through open slopes of maquis and then lovely aromatic Laricio Pines. Excellent views back over Calenzana and Calvi. A brief stop at a col ( Bocca a u Saltu, 1250 m) then some traversing through more lovely pines. Some scrambling up through rocks - including one short sections equipped with chains. Lunch at a pretty open saddle with mountain views. A bit more ascending and then a traverse around a cirque to reach the hut which is situated on an open slope with excellent views. Time taken: 5 1/2 hours.</li>
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What the guidebook doesn't say is that there is a lovely little bar restaurant right at the start of the GR at the top of the town of Calenzana. There were a few other walkers fuelling up. We paused for a photo to mark the moment:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisXD3lyLGW4mo0SRk3CglBUsovMBfIdX8WBRthkFv7ccVBf_o0bYvJ-5ieUsMGGTrkpt-6uoN43RjmgwM8AW2Q_eLV2lkZncn7yQxbtSN1swNpkF-Zz2NiaUzi05dmoBOsz3DFWhnlNNGx/s1600/Bar+GR20.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="456" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisXD3lyLGW4mo0SRk3CglBUsovMBfIdX8WBRthkFv7ccVBf_o0bYvJ-5ieUsMGGTrkpt-6uoN43RjmgwM8AW2Q_eLV2lkZncn7yQxbtSN1swNpkF-Zz2NiaUzi05dmoBOsz3DFWhnlNNGx/s640/Bar+GR20.jpeg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i style="font-weight: bold;">Keen as mustard!</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">We started walking at 7:15 after catching a taxi from our hotel in<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calvi,_Haute-Corse" target="_blank"> Calvi</a>, which claims to be the birthplace of Christopher Columbus. Quite a few folks camped overnight in Calenzana to make an early start, and it was very early for a number of them. Apparently there was quite a bit of late partying, traffic noise and then people started getting up at about 3:00 a.m. Hmmm. Perhaps a bit nervous about the day ahead? Some of the folks we chatted with over the next couple of days were very unimpressed!</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Here is an early glimpse back at Calenzana tucked away under the hill in the foreground:</span></div>
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Even at this late stage of the season the <a href="http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/363672/maquis" target="_blank">maquis</a> - also know as macchia - still had lots of colour, was very aromatic with some of the herbs continuing to flower. Soon we passed the first of many beautiful Laricio Pines ...</div>
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... and the first mountains started to come closer. It's quite remarkable how suddenly one becomes engulfed in the spine of Corsica when one embarks on the GR20. We're on our way to the col on the right ...</div>
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... and here we are at the col looking back down at Calenzana, which is getting more distant:</div>
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Around through the col we caught or first glimpse of Calvi, which we were to see off and on over the next three days as we move higher into the mountains:</div>
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A little further on after passing through a gorgeous bit of forest we arrived at a section that involved a bit of traversing and scrambling over rocky ground. If you click on and look closely at the photo below you should be able to pick out six hikers. Some of them are engaged in a section with chains.</div>
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At this point it's probably worth mentioning that the GR20 isn't your average hike on nicely groomed trails. There really is a lot of scrambling, some of it very exposed. And much of the route is very rough with lots of loose rock lying about. At least, unlike most of our "adventure hiking" here in Tasmania, there is generally not a lot of scrub to fight your way through. But it does pay to beware of the maquis lining a lot of the trail up to about 1000 metres and perhaps a bit beyond: it is very thorny!</div>
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Not long after the rocky section above we arrived at a lovely spot for an early lunch where a few other hikers were recovering from their exertions:</div>
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A couple hundred more metres of climbing brought us to a huge cirque, across which lies the refuge on a small shelf overlooking a west-facing valley. A liaison track provides access to the outside world, which the guardians of the refuge use for reprovisioning. Here is a look back around the way we came around a series of lichen-coloured slabs ...</div>
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Upon arriving at the hut, one's attention is readily drawn to the blackboard advertising food and drink, and then to the sign with the name of the hut and its altitude (1560 m):</div>
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Under the sign, enjoying the sun was one of two resident dogs ...</div>
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... and around the side one of a number of horses used to bring up provisions was hanging out ...</div>
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At this particular refuge the horses roamed freely, and were as likely as not to leave an aromatic present adjacent to one's tent! You might notice the two satellite dishes on the roof. I think one was for the internet, as it is possible to book the refuges over the internet - some of the time at least!</div>
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I don't have a photo of the toilet block but it is about 60 metres away behind where this photo is taken. Plenty of fresh - and I mean <i><b><span style="font-size: large;">fresh</span></b></i> - water to wash away the sweat from what was a pretty warm and strenuous day.</div>
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We got the tent up in quite a nice spot just below the refuge (ours is the green one on the left closest to the camera) ...</div>
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... with a lovely view out the window across the shelf below and the mountains and coast towards the west:</div>
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We had a few hours to relax before dinner. Di reckons this refuge had the best food, the mainstay of which was an excellent lentil and sausage stew. It also fed us nice and early: 6:00 p.m. which was a rarity and much appreciated because it left a couple of hours of daylight to enjoy after dinner. And that's pretty much it for Day One on the GR20. A strenuous but not overly difficult day, which we were pleased to finish well within the notional time from the guidebook. We felt encouraged that we just might be able to survive the hike. The next day was billed as a difficult follow-up to the first, significantly shorter and with less altitude gain, but lots of scrambling and only half an hour less time suggested for its completion.</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><i>We looked forward to the challenges ahead ...</i></span></div>
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Doughttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12724255802945843203noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2556783246652350110.post-66238360918625683742013-10-07T00:24:00.000+11:002015-10-25T20:07:31.385+11:00Preparing for the GR20 in Corsica: Europe's Toughest Grand Randonnée?<h4>
<u>First: A Note About Walking Poles</u></h4>
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With advancing age (between us we currently have experience of running around on this planet for 121 years!) one's joints are not quite as supple and forgiving as they once were. Both of us have hips and knees that regularly remind us of the stresses and strains they have endured over that time.<br />
As a consequence, for about the past four years we've been using walking poles on any hikes where we carry more than about about twenty pounds (roughly 9 kilos). This has most certainly been a major factor in our ability to continue doing long hikes, especially with a lot of vertical gain and loss, and we wish we'd started using poles much earlier. Our eyes were really opened a few years ago when hiking in the Pyrenees seeing lots of young people racing up hills, poling away like mad. They had the right idea and no doubt will have fewer hip and knee problems down the track. So, if you're contemplating walking the GR20 - or any other long hike with a lot of vertical gain and loss - do yourself a favour and use poles.<br />
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<u>Who Are We?</u></h4>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: small;">Atop Mount Canigou on the Pyrenean Haute Route</span></b></td></tr>
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Di and Doug. That's us. At the time of writing this blog, sixty-three and fifty-eight years old. Respectively. We are a retired couple who never grew up and are trying to have as much fun as we can fit in - and afford to pay for! - before our joints pack up and we're confined to twin <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ea_i8tS5PCI" target="_blank">Zimmer Frames</a>. So far we are doing okay, although one of us has had to have a hip and oil change and the other is getting closer to that state of affairs. Basically, along with a couple of other outdoor activities, we love hiking. No longer able to cope with long wilderness hikes where we have to carry all our camping gear and food for a week or more at a time, we discovered hiking in Europe - and <b><i><u>refuges</u></i></b>! It's given us a new lease of life. Basically, the message here is that if <i><b>we</b></i> can hike the GR20, you probably can too, so get out amongst it!</div>
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<u>Taking the Long View</u></h4>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: small;">The famous mountain with a window</span></i></b></td></tr>
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Our preparation for the GR20 in Corsica - "Europe's toughest grand randonnée" (search the internet for "Europe's toughest grand randonnée" and see what it serves up!) - started way back in 2009, the year before Di and I retired. Di was determined to do a long hike in Europe so she started researching options. Hiking in the Alps was appealing, although I thought that might be a bit crowded and was keen for her to look elsewhere. (Some exploration of the Alps remains an option for future trips, especially as I have been reassured by many people that there are few fellow hikers on the paths once you get out of Chamonix.) Two very appealing options kept coming up: hiking the length of the Pyrenees or going to Corsica to do the GR20.<br />
As an aside, there are actually at least four options for hiking the length of the Pyrenees: on the French side of the border via the<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GR_10_(France)" target="_blank"> GR10</a> and the <a href="http://www.pyrenees-pireneus.com/Bibliographie/Topos-Guides/Randonnee-Montagne/BIBLI-HRP.htm" target="_blank">Haute Randonnée Pyrénéan</a>, on the Spanish side via the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GR_11_(Spain)" target="_blank">GR11</a>, and <a href="http://www.cicerone.co.uk/product/detail.cfm/book/555/iid/4/show/introduction" target="_blank">the Pyrenean Haute Route</a> described by Ton Joosten, published by Cicerone Press, which utilises tracks in France, Spain and Andorra. (Cicerone guides also exist for the GR10 & GR11.)<br />
For our retirement present to ourselves we selected the Pyrenean Haute Route because we were seduced by the idea of walking from the Atlantic Ocean to the Mediterranean Sea, and we wanted something really, really loooonnnnggggg. (You can see <a href="http://dougandi.smugmug.com/TraversingthePyrenees" target="_blank">photos from our traverse of the Pyrenees here</a>, but be warned that you need a pretty fast internet connection as some of the image files are quite large.) The PHR is 45 days of walking. That's loooonnnnggggg. By contrast, the GR20 is only one-third as long at only 15 days. Since that trip to the Pyrenees, which was one of our best ever adventures the GR20 kept popping up in our thoughts and during conversation with fellow hiking enthusiasts. So, after putting Corsica and the GR20 on the back burner we have finally got back to it this year.<br />
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<u><b>Taking the short view</b></u></h4>
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It just occurred to me that I haven't looked at YouTube before now for videos of the GR20. If you think that reading this account and looking at a bunch of photos might just be bloody boring, you could get a quick snapshot of the entire experience by looking at <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j_t03hAPWiE" target="_blank">this rather nice little video</a> where the film-maker recounts his experiences in under four minutes walking from south to north (we went north to south, which is generally preferred) ...</div>
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On the other hand, if you think you might enjoy a more detailed recount, read on!</div>
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<h4>
<u>A quick note about walking times</u></h4>
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For our bible to hiking the GR20 we used <a href="http://www.cicerone.co.uk/product/detail.cfm/book/477/title/gr20-corsica" target="_blank">Paddy Dillon's guidebook</a>. We didn't carry the print copy but instead took with us the the digital version on Di's iPad mini, which worked well. We found his walking times quite generous. Apart from the fifth day which we completed in exactly the time Dillon suggested, we arrived at the finishing point each day considerably quicker than the listed times. </div>
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Are you thinking about walking the GR20? If you are used to walking and scrambling on rough ground and walking up hills it's likely that you will finish each stage quicker than Dillon suggests (if you use his guidebook). If you've done most of your walking on well-groomed trails and flatter terrain, you will probably exceed his times.</div>
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<h4>
<u>Making it happen</u></h4>
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Late last year we decided for good that 2013 was to be the "Year of the GR Vingt". Di ordered the guide book and two large maps of Corsica so we could start our planning. She also bought herself a new, lightweight and innovative <a href="http://www.aarnpacks.com/" target="_blank">Aarn FloMo BodyPack</a>. (I think it's a bit wanky, and the fiddly-ness of it would drive me crazy, but she loves it!) We eliminated (some of) the excess gear we carried through the Pyrenees and spent some time trying to decide on whether to take tents, sleeping mats and bags or not. In the end, after Di had spent some time reading about <a href="http://corsica.forhikers.com/forum/p/17211" target="_blank">problems with bedbugs in the refuges</a>, we opted to take the camping gear. (More about that in future posts.) We discovered on the walk that every refuge and bergerie along the route also has overflow accommodation in the way of tents equipped with sleeping mats.<br />
By the way, if you decide to do the GR20 and stay in either fixed tents or the refuges you still need your own sleeping bag; unlike in the Pyrenees and Alps refuges do not supply blankets.<br />
We booked our airline tickets, and hotels for our arrival in Corsica and for the third, fifth and ninth nights of the trek. We alerted our friends Michel - who we'd met in the Pyrenees - and his partner Brigitte - who came with Michel to visit us in early 2012 - that we were on our way back to France. Michel insisted that they pick us up in Paris and whisk us off to <a href="http://www.brittanytourism.com/" target="_blank">Bretagne</a>, then on to Toulouse before we flew to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bastia" target="_blank">Bastia</a> in Corsica.<br />
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<h4>
<u>Getting unfit for the challenge</u></h4>
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Before going off to do this tough hike in the mountains of Corsica we had a long trip to the big island north of Tasmania to deal with. Things started off well, with a couple of months climbing at Mount Arapiles in Victoria and the Blue Mountains in New South Wales. We felt pretty fit, lugging our packs to the crag and climbing most days, with the odd day hike now and then for a bit of variety. Unfortunately, the continuation of our journey to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Far_North_Queensland" target="_blank">FNQ</a> to visit grandchildren and explore Cape York with friends really <a href="http://idioms.thefreedictionary.com/put+the+kibosh+on" target="_blank">put the kibosh on</a> our fitness program. It was great fun though. Di got to see lots of birds, I got to drag her up some fun climbs, we had a great time with our little darlings in Cairns and we had a fantastic time with and learned a lot about four-wheel drive touring from our friends Max and Prue and Graham and Liz up at The Cape. If you haven't seen our blog from that trip and think you might be interested <a href="http://ofcockatoosandkangaroos.blogspot.com.au/2013_03_01_archive.html" target="_blank">you can read about it here</a>.<br />
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<u>Getting fit for the challenge</u></h4>
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We had a couple of weeks upon our return to Tasmania to tidy the garden, put in some winter vegetables and hike as much as we could to get fit again. Di also did a bunch of <a href="http://barrecode.com.au/" target="_blank">Barrecode</a> classes and I rode my bike a few times for variety and the sheer joy of it. We managed to tone up a bit and got rid of some of the flab we gained from eating and drinking too much and sitting on our arses in a four wheel drive for a couple of months. Still, we didn't feel anywhere near ready for 15 days of strenuous hiking and scrambling through the series of <a href="http://corsica.forhikers.com/blog/45-highest-corsican-mountains" target="_blank">mountains</a> that make up the spine of Corsica.<br />
Luckily, Michel had hatched a plan for us. In the 10 days we spent in Bretagne, we hiked almost the whole time, including seven days and about 150 kilometres along the coast between <a href="http://www.brittanytourism.com/discover-brittany/heritage/concarneau" target="_blank">Concarneau</a> and <a href="http://www.brittanytourism.com/things-to-do/events/brittany-s-main-events/festival-interceltique-de-lorient-august-2014" target="_blank">Lorient</a>. (This week of hiking constituted less than 10 percent of <a href="https://sites.google.com/site/geocachingbretagne/le-tour-de-la-bretagne-par-le-gr-34" target="_blank">the GR34, which runs along the entire coast of Bretagne</a>.) Along our hike we attended three festivals, which were all great fun. I did, however, tell Michel that he drove a hard holiday, as we were pretty darn tired at the end of each day! After between the hiking and actually starting the GR20 we had a few days to recover ourselves, which worked a treat. Most of all though, we are so thankful to Michel for his last week training program. It was what really primed us for the hike through what the French refer to as "la montagne dans la mère" or "la belle île". But, more than anything, we had a really great time!<br />
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